It would have been nice to see the total picture, and have a better snapshot of the condition of the engine. Did you wet test those 3 cylinders as well?
Well, I guess I can't please everyone.
I did not wet test it.
This whole process was done with as little intrusion into my cousin's engine as possible. This is her only means of transportation and I'm not a mechanic so I did not want to go tearing into her engine and neither my cousin nor I have the spare cash to pay someone to do it.
With what we can see, I have a feeling if I started taking off gasketed parts, she would be stuck with some kind of leak due to lack of lubrication to the seals.
Mopar your test is fine... You provided good information and picture proof. Following up with similar pictures and information should be enough for the crowd to make a decision. If not then they were inevitably going to sit on the fence forever.
I think he's done a fair job to this point. I only questioned it because any compression test I've ever done or heard of they did all cylinders. For some people/engines compression tests are costly and difficult so they shy away from them. But in this case the biggest argument about any of these products by certain members is compression readings. Me, I think cleaning is a visual thing, and writing numbers down can be disputed anyway. I'm glad you are taking the time. Good luck with the clean up.
Thanks guys. It's hard to perform a perfect test without decent mechanical knowledge or a deeper pocket.
If this were my Honda, you'd have all kinds of "under the valve cover" pics because it is my car and if I screw anything up, I have another vehicle to drive. Also, Honda 4-cylinders are cake to work on.
This isn't possible though because, as a BITOGer, my engine is spotless.
I'm not sure, longer than me though. I usually drive 25-30k a year. Her shop is literally 3-5 miles away or something around there.
Just estimating, I'd say she puts maybe ~1k a month on the vehicle, minimum. I've never tracked her mileage, though. On friday I will stop by her shop or apartment and check the oil and the mileage. I know she does do some longer drives which consist of probably 50-60 miles round-trip.
That's the problem for some of us. Not just with this type of stuff, but anything where mileage is more protracted. When I was doing my 0w-10 testing ..it took me over 2 years total. The last sump was over a year to get 10k on.
It is more "real world" in that regard. It's just frustrating waiting for results.
There is nothing in the Auto-Rx directions requiring that... It just says a certain amount of miles need to be accumulated before commencing the "rinse" phase.
Should be fine... It's summer and that should be enough miles for the engine to reach operating temperature. I would be concerned if it was winter.
I have a 1996 Camaro V6 that my daughter drives. It's had this annoying lifter tick at start up and it would subside as the engine would get warmer. Thought at first it might be a backflow issue with the filter so I tried going back to the original Delco oil filter with no success. I even tried the seafoam method with no luck. A mechanic friend told me it wasn't too bad and to live with it. Well being the perfectionist I am, that answer was totally unexceptable. I had read some glowing reviews on Auto rx, but wasn't willing to fork over the doe before trying some cheaper methods. Here it is, 800 miles into the initial cleaning phase and WOW..! The car has an ever so slight lifter tick at start up, but nothing compared to how it used to be. I'm sold on this stuff. Well worth the money...