I have a 2025 manual and it clearly and explicitly states 0w-8. You can refer to Lexus Canada for the manual. That chart you posted isn't relevant, it's the text that accompanies it that dictated everything.
MOTUL HYBRID 0W-8 VOA or UOA?
- Thread starter lowon
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Australian OM:
Canadian OM:
Tell me again how its not relevant
Canadian OM:
Tell me again how its not relevant
Another thick vs. thin thread. The reason the manual says that is non-technical and is regulatory. The manufacturer is required to strenuously discourage the use of any oil grade that was not used to obtain the mileage rating. This applies to Canada as well as the EU and elsewhere that has emissions or CO2 limits. That’s the sole reason the manual is worded that way.
Ladies, please… let’s settle down now.
Should we move to the next question determining quality or performance of a oil by reading a VOA that's always a gem to discuss.
Ford Boss Me said PUP is the best motor oil based on a VOA. Should I use that in my car now? What is the best motor oil? Should I get a Ford and ask it to Boss Me around? What do I do?
Thanks in advance.
I'm not asking the question the OP wanted it answered and he was determining the best and making a decision by reading aVOA
Seems like you're reading around every single point except the one that matters. That's the one clause that will definitely hand you a loss in court over a warranty battle, and prevent prolong use of a higher weight oil. Everything else you posted was wishy washy at best with selective terms like "may". A high end lawyer will likely make mince meat of these arguments using this claim that higher weight oils are for temporary use only.
Not really talking about thick or thin, that's what everyone else brought to the thread. I just wanted voa's or uoa's of various 0w-8 oils.
Yes OBEY!!! Dont ask questions. They never tell you why you must refill with 0W8.
We know better, ask Lexus Canada yourself.
What about the additive package makes it "stout" and, presumably, better than some other additive packages? I'm curious about what you know ... I hope to learn from you.
You better obey when warranty is in question, especially with how Toyota is very quick to deny warranty claims. For example they have declined warranty on gr86 rtv issues - which is indisputably a manufacturer defect. They have also denied warranty for tracking the car. Their excuse? I have seen reasons from too much high rpm, track use, or the car not being maintained enough - even on a 7k mileage gr86. Yeah good luck justifying you're using a thicker oil because of extreme use.
You can ask all the "questions" you want. I guarantee you won't win in court over a warranty battle vs. their $1000/hr lawyers and their army of engineers.
Would not have to. I do not live in a country neighboring the land of CAFE regulations.
I live in the land of free oil choices.
Again that wording is purely for emission regulations in the US. Doubt you have your own manual in CAN... ?
Get good layers and you should win. Strongly doubt they will ever check if you have any trouble.
Bör = should, not must.
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What will this possibly prove now you're going to determine the best oil by using a VOA yea ok.
No, trying to make a more educated decision using as much data as possible. Obviously on such a thin oil having a higher amount of antiwear additives would be idea due to the possibility of shear being high, and if we have hths data it would be largely down to anti-wear for protection, on these super thin oils.
Trying to determine base stock with the documentation, then getting more info with additive packages. Then trying to cross compare. UOA's are always super nice to have to determine wear, but that's not possible yet.
How else are you supposed to compare oil? Obviously with as much data as possible, and given the current limitations because of how new this oil is. Look at how liquimoly is compared vs. other brands of oil, with voa's and the technical documents to determine oil based stock. And that gives a relatively decent comparison. Otherwise how will oil be compared at all, not everything has uoa on the same car back to back.
And what year is this from? Manuals change year by year and so do recommendations.
You do realize warranty is region specific right? So a Canadian car falls under North American rules, and if Toyota North America specifies 0w-8 then that's what you have to run. And the first thing most dealers do in the event of engine failure is check service history, and what will you have to provide when you prove to them you serviced your own car? That's right, receipts showing you bought the wrong oil weight. Btw there are dealers who sample oil as well, typically Subaru dealers do that because of the frequency of ring land failures on EJ powered cars.
Good luck arguing otherwise in court, you clearly don't know what it's like to argue your point against lawyers who make it their specialty to twist facts and your words on you to make you look guilty. And $1000/hr corporate lawyers for billion dollar companies will absolutely annihilate whatever defense you have, or drag cases on so long you'll have to condede. The only way it's cut and dry is if you do exactly what they wanted and they have nothing to argue against. Also they have the actual engineers of the car to testify on their behalf, good luck trying to say you know more.
You are kind of ****ed on the GLV-1 grade perhaps.
Could argue GLV-2 0w16 & 0w20 are equivalent and supersedes it.
https://www.fuelsandlubes.com/fli-a...tys-role-in-engine-and-drivetrain-efficiency/
"JASO GLV-2 is categorised as a “flat viscosity oil,” offering superior performance with minimal temperature dependency. It effectively reduces viscosity across the entire temperature range. Engine oils with viscosity beyond SAE 0W-8 are “technically limited,” he said, citing examples such as oil pressure dropping at high temperatures. Thus, the GLV-2 specification, unlike GLV-1, specifies the use of SAE 0W-16 and SAE 0W-20. "
"JASO GLV-2 will come into effect in October 2024, he said."
Yes thags what I mean, the way they word it I'm chained down if I want warranty. I don't dispute the fact you can run up to 0w-20 on these engines as they were specced to do so on the past.
But I can't argue that if it were to come down to it.
I doubt I could argue that, the manual is pretty clear it needs to be TGMO 0w-8 or jaso glv1.
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