ALL of my vehicle owner manuals say 7.5k or six months. I have set my vehicles to 5k or one year. Those that don't make it to 5k in one year go two years. No evidence to back this up.
I recently fired my doctor. Just follow YouTube now.Wait! Hole up! I’ve darn near fixed everything in my life and saved billions of dollars from watching YouTube videos.
Hey that's not funny. This might be the singular case when YouTube is actually the better alternative!I recently fired my doctor. Just follow YouTube now.
This, IMO, would be the perfect scenario for somebody who wants to keep this kind of car for a long time but still use “cheap” WM oils: drop the oil immediately and run 5k with a quart of HPL EC30 and best filter available. Then do 1-3 OCIs with HPL PCMO and good filtration. Then the engine will be much cleaner and hopefully any clogged oil rings & passages will be freed up.I've seen this same scenario play out on other boards I frequent, where someone buys an off lease or ex-rental with no, or very limited maintenance records for it's first ~3yrs/36K miles.
They may maintain it per spec from then on, but that lack of records from it's first life is going to bite you if you have a related problem. Especially if you bought an extended warranty package.
Yup - when you look at “clean up” methods dating back to the BrocL days - and of course the EC and VRP discussions today - there were many easy ways to address that soft crud along with the unseen stuff like the rings …This, IMO, would be the perfect scenario for somebody who wants to keep this kind of car for a long time but still use “cheap” WM oils: drop the oil immediately and run 5k with a quart of HPL EC30 and best filter available. Then do 1-3 OCIs with HPL PCMO and good filtration. Then the engine will be much cleaner and hopefully any clogged oil rings & passages will be freed up.
Now, switch to whatever oil & filter is wished to be run. In the big picture, what’s $300 worth of oil in the life of an engine, especially when you just bought a “new” car?
Yes, methods that don’t involve dumping solvents into the crankcase. Solvents don’t lubricate; oils do.Yup - when you look at “clean up” methods dating back to the BrocL days - and of course the EC and VRP discussions today - there were many easy ways to address that soft crud along with the unseen stuff like the rings …
Im on the liver king diet.Hey that's not funny. This might be the singular case when YouTube is actually the better alternative!
Did you get the ab implants as well?Im on the liver king diet.![]()
I could definitely shed pounds on a liver dietIm on the liver king diet.![]()
The debate arises when you try to define frequent and regular. There are plenty of posts on this thread that aim to educate about it.For all the folks that want to do their 10k+ oil changes on their car. Go for it, you paid a lot of your own money for that vehicle. If you want to save some money on oil changes that's up to you.
For me? Oil changes are cheap and easy so I'll keep doing mine at 4-4.5k. Might be overkill sure, but frequent and regular oil and filter changes is the best and cheapest thing you can do to keep your engine working right for as long as possible.
Maybe. But an oil change costs me less than 25 bucks when I do it myself. And with my families driving habits that's around an oil change every 4 months or so, give or take. So less than 75 bucks a year per car. The money is not an issue here when that is less than the cost of a family dinner out.The debate arises when you try to define frequent and regular. There are plenty of posts on this thread that aim to educate about it.
If 8-9k OCI take you to the same spot than 4-4.5k in your application, well that's 50% cheaper. One size does not fit all.
We moderate behavior, not content.
Another blank statement. No different than the title of the video being discussed.An engine builder I trust and respect says (regarding oil changes) "to take what the manufacturer says and cut it in half".......
True. And running on blind faith because you believe what you read on a forum and think it applies to your vehicle is a fools errand imo, because you have zero data to go by. Sorry but I'll go by data vs. what someone posting on a forum thinks.A UOA does not tell you much about sludge and contamination.
That is my plan. This is a 120k Toyota V6 which has religiously received a synthetic 5k OC and 10k Fram Ultra.This, IMO, would be the perfect scenario for somebody who wants to keep this kind of car for a long time but still use “cheap” WM oils: drop the oil immediately and run 5k with a quart of HPL EC30 and best filter available. Then do 1-3 OCIs with HPL PCMO and good filtration. Then the engine will be much cleaner and hopefully any clogged oil rings & passages will be freed up.
Now, switch to whatever oil & filter is wished to be run. In the big picture, what’s $300 worth of oil in the life of an engine, especially when you just bought a “new” car?
What on earth does this mean?Typical office Doctors that hang on to their vehicles for close to 200k and only stop driving them due to failures, aren't very successful doctors.
Yes, the V12s hold 10 quarts. A big sump. And MB 229.5 oil used every time.The V12s, I assume, held 10 quarts or more of oil. Also, why use conventional oils at all. Your point overall is excellent, that there are many variables impacting this from car to car and driver to driver.