Mobil 1 has (mostly) improved the HTFS viscosity and VII content with API SP

[Deleted member 89374]

2nd doesn't grab it just really does not want to let you in unless you pause.

Sounds like a synchronizer issue. I bet if you rev-matched that gear, it would go in easier. But, I mean, who would want to rev-match 2nd?

Manual transmissions are way more flexible on the fluid you use. If you want to try an ATF, I would go with Castrol TranSynd TES-668. I run it in three transfer cases that are all different: in a BW44-44 (clutch coupling for front axle) in a RAM 1500, a MP2010 (no clutch, just gears and a planetary differential), and a MP3010 (clutch coupling on demand and low range gears) in the Jeep. They all run perfectly fine with it, and I noticed a reduction in noise when switching modes in the RAM 1500 and the Jeep. It's more "stout", so to speak, than any other ATF out there. And if you don't like how it shifts, drain it out. It's cheap enough that it won't burn a hole in your pocket, yet this stuff is unkillable. There is also Delvac 1 ATF TES-295, but the friction modification is based on a spec that's like 18 years old by now. I'd go with TES-668. Oh, by the way, either of the two TES fluids can be used as a replacement for ATF+ 4, but TES-668 will provide smoother shifts.

I don't put much stock in ZF's recommendations. I mean, I run Mobil 1 LV ATF HP Dexron HP in a 8HP70, so, there is that. I also run Delvac 1 75W-90 in all the diffs, very good gear oil. There is also a Limited Slip version of it, but it's nearly impossible to find. So is Delvac 1 ATF TES-668, but it exists, and it uses GTL as the base oil, as does Dexron HP.

 

[chris719]

Sounds like a synchronizer issue. I bet if you rev-matched that gear, it would go in easier. But, I mean, who would want to rev-match 2nd?

What I forgot to mention is that it’s pretty much only an issue on upshifts. Especially if you rev match the downshift it goes in easily. Maybe if you double clutched an upshift it would be perfect, but that would be pretty slow. Would be the first person to take Dominic Toretto’s advice.

I’m not that adventurous so I’ll probably stick to a DCTF while under warranty still . Good to know the Delvac works in the ZF8. The diff uses Castrol SAF-XJ 75W-140 which seems pretty decent.

 

[wemay]

My inference from what @chris719 posted is not that there isn't a difference between specs such as VW504 vs API SP, but moreover a difference between two brands meeting the same spec, with one being an inexpensive house brand and the other a much more expensive major. In that scenario, why pay more? Paraphrasing of course.

In relation to this, in my case at least, brand "trust" and marketing clearly do play a part. I'm comfortable with that even if house brands are used at times.

 

[kschachn]

My inference from what @chris719 posted is not that there isn't a difference between specs such as VW504 vs API SP, but moreover a difference between two brands meeting the same spec, with one being an inexpensive house brand and the other a much more expensive major. In that scenario, why pay more? Paraphrasing of course.

In relation to this, in my case at least, brand "trust" and marketing clearly do play a part. I'm comfortable with that even if house brands are used at times.

I guess I'm avoiding that by using brands with more demanding approval requirements than an API SP license.

But on the other hand if API SP was what I really wanted, I'd pick something like Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 which in addition to VW 504 00 approval it also is API SP licensed.

 

[rotary 13b]

M1 AFE 0W-20 SP/dexos1 Gen 3 is more stout in terms of the base-oil (HTFS) viscosity, but you lose the extra antioxidant (AO) and possibly some extra detergent and dispersant.

For longer OCIs, definitely go with M1 EP instead of M1/M1 AFE.

thank you for your efforts

-which one of these oils will have higher wear protection and less intake valve deposit
for 6000 miles oil capacity : 4.4qt , gdi, natural aspirated , city driving , average year climate 109F, owner manual accept 0w20 to 10w50 api sg to sn



Oil #1 HTFS : 2.24, vii: 5.21%, harman index 0.8959, hths 3.11
Meet or exceed dexos 1 gen 3

Oil #2 HTFS :2.46, vii :5.84%, harman index : 0.8832, hths 3.5
MB 229.51

Oil #3 HTFS : 2.25, vii 11.15%, harman index : 0.7771, hths 3.8
MB 229.51

Oil #4 HTFS : 2.37, vii 8.35%, harman index : 0.8331, hths 3.7
API SP / Mb229.5


Is it true that if i want drain interval of 7000 miles : hths and tbn are more important than htfs?

 

[nostradamus]

I tried to use Gokhan’s A_Harman calculator on Google spreadsheet for Delvac Esp 5w-40 but don’t know what I’m doing wrong won’t let me enter values. Anyways was trying to do that oil compared to Delvac extreme 10w-30. I have BMW X5 35d diesel. Ran the Pennzoil Euro L 5w-30 for 30k miles but it consumed that at about 1.5 qts every 7500 oci. Running Delvac Esp 5w-40 for past 22500k miles at same 7500mi oci and it only consumes .5qt so significantly better. Thinking of going to the extreme 10w30. Gokhan can you add those? Thanks!

 

[OVERKILL]

I tried to use Gokhan’s A_Harman calculator on Google spreadsheet for Delvac Esp 5w-40 but don’t know what I’m doing wrong won’t let me enter values. Anyways was trying to do that oil compared to Delvac extreme 10w-30. I have BMW X5 35d diesel. Ran the Pennzoil Euro L 5w-30 for 30k miles but it consumed that at about 1.5 qts every 7500 oci. Running Delvac Esp 5w-40 for past 22500k miles at same 7500mi oci and it only consumes .5qt so significantly better. Thinking of going to the extreme 10w30. Gokhan can you add those? Thanks!

He's no longer on the site.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

Well, that’s bad news for me. I just bought the new Mobil1 EP 0W20 formula, and I intend to run it 10,000 miles. I did mix it with 2 quarts of the old formula I had laying around...perhaps that will help?

Either way, the only thing I really care about with oil, is a clean engine. I assume protection, isnt an issue with my 500 mile weekly highway commute (as the industry standards should handle my use easily). But, I never want my oil control rings to stick. I never want carbon buildup or sludge in those lands, sticking those rings, and leading to excessive oil consumption. I want the cleanest capable oil I can find, and I want it to deliver for 10,000 miles. I don’t have direct injection. Or turbos. Just a Toyota V6, with 108,000 miles...zero issues, zero oil consumption. I want it to stay that way, and I’d like an oil that can easily take that engine to 10,000 miles. Cleanly. Mobil1 EP has been that oil for me, nit sure if it still will be.

I certainly wouldn’t go 10,000 miles then Max 7500

 

[Bullwinkle007]

I wouldn't say most boutique stuff is snake oil, but there are certainly examples of ones that are. Some of them aren't even that expensive but still get adorned with the boutique moniker due to low market penetration and outrageous marketing (like TRiAX).

As @kschachn noted, approvals are the best "solid" metric we have to go by. Oils with a laundry list of approvals, like many of the Euro oils (M1 FS 0W-40 is probably the most notorious example on here, recommended for everything) are generally proven, through those approvals, to be top notch. They typically have lower volatility, have passed tests for deposit control, oxidation resistance, shear resistance, they've had to do simulated Nuremberg lapping...etc. They've had to jump through significantly more hoops.

I'm comfortable with a company like HPL, which is boutique but doesn't make ridiculous marketing claims, taking that LL-01/A40/502 00 additive package, blending an oil with premium base oils using it, and then, through testing, improving its performance in several areas they feel are important. I think that's an honest approach that most folks don't have a hard time getting behind, assuming they trust the company. There's a relative chasm between that, and say TRiAX:

View attachment 157744


There are many others.

Of course then you have companies like Lucas shamelessly peddling bovine excrement as the nectar of the Gods, lol.

I would love to try HPL, my OCI is short with 2 vehicles with GDI. Prefer to use M1 0/40 and run short oci and remove bc of fuel dilution all these cars have. Prefer somewhat of a consistent viscosity. No one of my vehicles sees a lot of vital time in the winter and short trips. Winter that car may see 1500 miles, and 2 hours a day idle time.

 

[doublebase]

I certainly wouldn’t go 10,000 miles then Max 7500

Well, I have for the last 3-4 oil changes. No problems to speak of. No oil consumption, great UOA.