Mobil 1 EP 5w30 In All My Vehicles

I prefer M1 EP 10W-30 over M1 EP 5W-30 if your winters are within the 10W range. Less vm and lower Noack! And yet to see it burn in any of our cars. A bit pricey too for having no exotic European approvals! lol
I believe M1 10W30 EP is available from WM (or at least on line from WM) .
 
Off topic little bit. Would there be any harm in running ESP 0W20 and Toyota oil? Both would be for 5K intervals. I purchased Toyota prepaid service till 85K. I’ll do 5K and the dealer would do 5K.
 
Why most prefer ESP 5W-30:

Lower Noack, higher flashpoint > less evaporative loss, less deposits, less oil consumption,
most probably even more stable HTHS due to less VII.

This was copied/paste from another post
Thanks - I have a Hyundai GDI engine that has some oil consumption , so the ESP 5W30 would appear to be more in line with what would possibly be better to use in my case .
 
Lower Noack, higher flashpoint > less evaporative loss, less deposits, less oil consumption,
most probably even more stable HTHS due to less VII.
Where did you find your information that ESP 5w30 produces less deposits than EP 5w30 Dexos 1 Gen 3.... the topic of this thread?

There are probably thousands of members here since 2002 that have reached 300k with NOACK, flashpoint and evaporative losses that aren't below / above the norm, depending on which category above that you want to isolate on.
 
Where did you find your information that ESP 5w30 produces less deposits than EP 5w30 Dexos 1 Gen 3.... the topic of this thread?

There are probably thousands of members here since 2002 that have reached 300k with NOACK, flashpoint and evaporative losses that aren't below / above the norm, depending on which category above that you want to isolate on.
I was replying to ChrisD where he asked about 0w30 esp vs 5w30 esp in post #36, also where I said I copied and pasted what another member had written once before

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/m1-esp-0w-30-vs-5w-30.344955/

Post #3
 
Got me considering ESP 5w-30 as it is now available at WalMart and AutoZone and others. I'd never probably go over 8k, definitely not over 10k on an OC. I'm not sure even if 10k is considered an extended interval.

The Canyon and Silverado use an OLM. The VW actually calls for 10k OCI. The Mazda 3 has OLM and can can max out at 10k.

So to finish up if I were to use ESP 5w-30, seeing as it is a thick 5w30, would that pose any issues? Any effect on fuel economy would be negligible.
I’d just run a a3/b4 euro oil
 
Just don't put ideas into members here that ESP is more granduer than Mobil-1's 20k oils, for workplace, school kids hauling and shopping center activities. There are numerous members here that have used oils like Supertech and NAPA for 15-20 years. Heck,. right before Pep Boys closed their auto part stores, a BITOG member autoparts worker transported parts to businesses and homes, racking up over 360k, using nothing but Pep Boys house brand oil.

So really, how important is sub 10 NOACK, flashpoints that won't end the OCI over 400 - HTHS that never saw upwards of 2.9.....etc.....etc? To me it;s about engine cleanliness and engine wear protection - claiming no right to dismiss superb oils like Mobil-1 EP.
 
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Just don't put ideas into members here that ESP is more granduer than Mobil-1's 20k oils, for workplace, school kids hauling and shopping center activities. There are numerous members here that have used oils like Supertech and NAPA for 15-20 years. Heck,. right before Pep Boys closed their auto part stores, a BITOG member autoparts worker transported parts to businesses and homes, racking up over 360k, using nothing but Pep Boys house brand oil.

So really, how important is sub 10 NOACK, flashpoints that won't end the OCI over 400 - HTHS that never saw upwards of 2.9.....etc.....etc? To me it;s about engine cleanliness and engine wear protection - claiming no right to dismiss superb oils like Mobil-1 EP.
I see your point. It's hard to compare the ESP to say Mobil 1 EP. Different emphasis..

Mobil 1 ESP has a higher HT/HS per grade, more shear stable, has higher levels of ZDP. M1 EP has longer drain capability reserve.

Also Euro FS 5w30:

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/m1-fs-5w-30-euro-voa.386137/
 
I still think that for some engines that ESP is the way to go, such as my direct injected Corvette. I think the lower SAPs formula and lower Noack % will help keep the intake valves cleaner than EP would. And I also think that the 3.5 HTHS number will also be more beneficial since I like going full throttle a few times whenever I drive it. And up here ESP is roughly the same price as EP anyway.
 
I get where spirited driving of a performance car can benefit from M1 5W 30 ESP (i.e. Corvette) . Conversely , I’m curious how a long drain , non high performance oil like M1 5W30 EP holds up to spirited driving at a max lower OCI of say 7,500 miles ? I would think better than expected perhaps making M1 5W 30 EP more than just a long drain grocery getter oil .
 
VW 508 00 isn't backwards compatible with older specs I'm afraid. And it isn't a common or garden 0w20 either. Long drain intervals, low NOACK .. the sort of stuff that needs very high PAO and a robust add pack. Stick to the recommended spec in this one case - though some of your other cars won't be hurt by running this high quality a 0w20.

https://360.lubrizol.com/Specifications/Volkswagen/Volkswagen-VW50800-50900
 
I still think that for some engines that ESP is the way to go, such as my direct injected Corvette. I think the lower SAPs formula and lower Noack % will help keep the intake valves cleaner than EP would. And I also think that the 3.5 HTHS number will also be more beneficial since I like going full throttle a few times whenever I drive it. And up here ESP is roughly the same price as EP anyway.
Very true.
 
VW 508 00 isn't backwards compatible with older specs I'm afraid. And it isn't a common or garden 0w20 either. Long drain intervals, low NOACK .. the sort of stuff that needs very high PAO and a robust add pack. Stick to the recommended spec in this one case - though some of your other cars won't be hurt by running this high quality a 0w20.

https://360.lubrizol.com/Specifications/Volkswagen/Volkswagen-VW50800-50900
The only thing it's not backwards compatible with is other VW approvals or any specification that requires a higher HT/HS. But it is entirely acceptable in an engine that already lists a 20-grade oil. Any "older spec" that is a 20-grade could be substituted with a VW 508 00 oil.
 
I personally would use a euro spec oil in the VW.
It may not matter but that's what I would do
 
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The only thing it's not backwards compatible with is other VW approvals or any specification that requires a higher HT/HS. But it is entirely acceptable in an engine that already lists a 20-grade oil. Any "older spec" that is a 20-grade could be substituted with a VW 508 00 oil.
VW 504 00 / 507 00 for example was an upgrade on ACEA C3. Previous ones were upgrades on ACEA A3/B4. Typically 5w30 oils in both cases. Not entirely sure a low noack 0w20 would be the right oil there.

This 0w20 VW spec would go above and beyond most other 0w20 specced oils of course.

(edit. just read your post again, we appear to be saying the same thing. i need coffee btw)
 
When I bought my 2016 Jetta Sport 1.8t 5sp manual, loved this car. It was spec's 5w40 so was the 1.4t and 2.0t.
Me personally it would use Mobil 1/Castrol 0w40 in it and if you really want a 5w30 to run in all use a Euro 0/5w30 then.
 
With both the Mazdas in my signature, my plan was to finish up the oils I have. Two 5QT jugs of 0W-20 Pennzoil Platinum for the late fall/winter. Then, come Spring, shift to a 30 weight in both cars. Mobil 1 ESP 5W-30 should be good in the CX-5 and Mazda 3 (same engine.) I was also considering the Quaker State Ultimate Protection 5W-30 (the 0W-20 is in the CX-5 now.) Seems that is a good candidate also. I typically do 5K oil change intervals. At that interval, it may not matter. I'm in South Carolina.
 
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