Mobil 1 AFE Users - Please advise

[TJPark01]

Originally Posted By: OldCowboy


Also, Hyundai has a reputation for denying large warranty claims on almost any pretense.

Pure conjecture.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: JOD
I don't think there's an easy answer to your question. Just because someone's been "doing 10K with M1 since the beginning of time", it doesn't really mean much to you; different driving habits, different oil (M1 formulations have hardly remained the same for 30 years) and a different vehicle.

For me, the big variable is your car's motor. I had no problem going to 10K with a GIII synthetic, but I've seen a TON of UOA's on my particular engine (and the whole Duratec V6 family of engines) to support that decision. I don't know much about the Tau V8 though, and I doubt anyone else on here does, either. I haven't seen a single UOA on it.

Personally, in absence of any other information, I'd keep it to the mfg recommendation of 7.5K, and do a couple of UOA's to see if extending the inteval makes sense. M1 0W20 is certainly capable of doing 10K or more in the right circumstances, but it's only one of the variables in play here.


What you said is only partial true. I've been doing 10K OCIs also for the last 10-15 years also, (not to mention the previous 18 years) where the formulations haven't changed all that much and still M1 oils perform very well in all sorts of engines for 10K.

 

[dparm]

If you are doing your own changes, you need documentation. Otherwise it's your word against theirs.

 

[CMMeadAM]

What JOD wrote is pretty much right on the button ! Mobil 1
formulationns HAVE CHANGED substantially, especially with
them being predominantly Group 3 these days. And because you chose to do 10K OCI's on NON EP Mobil 1 oils surely does not mean that should be the regime for everyone. As JOD stated,
the Tau engine is a variable in and of itself. Juxtaposing
a Ford DuraTech in it's place is a false assumption. Ancient
habits and ancient history dosn't apply in all cases. And lets face it.....you were stuck on "5W"s for quite some time before you switched to 0w20 oils. What may be good for you is not necessarily good for everyone.....and neither may Mobil 1 be.

 

[buster]

Quote:
Mobil 1
formulationns HAVE CHANGED substantially, especially with
them being predominantly Group 3 these days.


All oils change formulations and Mobil 1 has recently changed to meet the new API specs. All other brands as well.

Mobil 1 uses a good amount of multiple high end base oils that are among the best in the industry.

 

[ltslimjim]

Originally Posted By: someguy
It has nothing to do with the performance of oil, its about not voiding your warranty. Why not run it to 7500 miles then get an oil analysis done and make an educated decision from there.


^ This.

Get a UOA at 7,500 and test for TBN.

 

[tig1]

Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
What JOD wrote is pretty much right on the button ! Mobil 1
formulationns HAVE CHANGED substantially, especially with
them being predominantly Group 3 these days. And because you chose to do 10K OCI's on NON EP Mobil 1 oils surely does not mean that should be the regime for everyone. As JOD stated,
the Tau engine is a variable in and of itself. Juxtaposing
a Ford DuraTech in it's place is a false assumption. Ancient
habits and ancient history dosn't apply in all cases. And lets face it.....you were stuck on "5W"s for quite some time before you switched to 0w20 oils. What may be good for you is not necessarily good for everyone.....and neither may Mobil 1 be.


I was using M1 5-20 in the 70s, M1 10-30 in the 80s and 90s and into the 00s. Now in the Duratechs M1 0-20. All have been fine for 10K+ OCIs. As for the grp3 comment. M1 oils do have some grp 3 but also 4-5 and more advanced base stocks you or I don't have a clue about. One thing for sure. M1 oils have improved over the years and 10K OCIs are as easy or easier to do today as they were decades ago for most engines.

 

[Ben99GT]

Originally Posted By: tig1
What you said is only partial true. I've been doing 10K OCIs also for the last 10-15 years also, (not to mention the previous 18 years) where the formulations haven't changed all that much and still M1 oils perform very well in all sorts of engines for 10K.


M1 formulations have changed drastically several times over the last 15 years, as have virtually all brands.

 

[Garak]

Originally Posted By: tig1
I've been doing 10K OCIs also for the last 10-15 years also, (not to mention the previous 18 years) where the formulations haven't changed all that much and still M1 oils perform very well in all sorts of engines for 10K.


Agreed. If the manufacturer recommends 7500 miles (and this is on conventional), then M1 certainly should be able to exceed this. Someone pointed out Mobil's view that the manual should be followed. Well, of course they're going to say that.

Basically, if 7500 miles on conventional is attainable, and 10000 miles on synthetic cannot be done, then it wouldn't make sense to me to use synthetic in that application. What would be the point?

In retrospect, thinking back to my fleet days, I wouldn't have hesitated to use Mobil 1 for a minimum of 12000 miles across the board, and probably closer to 15000.

 

[bullwinkle]

My advice is-do a UOA & change at the
MAXIMUM mfr's recommended OCI interval-sneak a peek at the UOA section for my AFE UOA on my wife's '05 Scion xB-AFE 0W30 USED UP at 8000 miles-TBN under 2, sheared into 20 grade, Extend AFE OCIs at your own risk!

 

[bullwinkle]

& I'm not saying the M1 did any damage to the engine, just that my experience showed that for my engine 7K is about as far as I should push out-your experience MAY be different, the newer SN formulation may be tougher.

 

[CMMeadAM]

Meant to type "REGIMINE"......just goes to show you how missing
just one itty bitty letter can make a BIG difference and change a meaning.....mea culpa!

 

[CMMeadAM]

Great that Mobil 1 has worked for 10K miles in your engines and
in your useage. It may NOT for everyone. And yes, Mobil1
is predominantly Group 3 these days with a little
Group IV and V mixed in, just like a few other quality synthetic oils. As far as "more advanced" base stocks, tis true, you and I and everone except the Mobil chemists don't have a clue. Enjoy your Florida trip !

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
Great that Mobil 1 has worked for 10K miles in your engines and
in your useage. It may NOT for everyone. And yes, Mobil1
is predominantly Group 3 these days with a little
Group IV and V mixed in, just like a few other quality synthetic oils. As far as "more advanced" base stocks, tis true, you and I and everone except the Mobil chemists don't have a clue. Enjoy your Florida trip !


Their percentage of base stocks varies WIDELY grade to grade. How do you think they get the insanely low pour points on many of their grades? Hint: It isn't with Group III.

 

[CMMeadAM]

No doubt they do vary wildly grade to grade. Something else may also. Hint: their use of Viscosity Index IMPROVERS !

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: TJPark01
There is no OCI light or reminder on this car. There is no way for the manufacturer to know when you changed the oil.

The burden of proof is always on the owner if maintenance is not performed at the dealer!
If there is a failure of an internally lubricated engine part and the vehicle is under warranty (either the factory new car warranty or an extended warranty), before they do anything the dealer will first look in his computer to see if there are maintenance records. If they can't find maintenance records on file they will ask YOU to produce them to prove that maintenance was performed at the FACTORY RECOMMENDED intervals using the one of the FACTORY RECOMMENDED oil grades. The documentation that you will need are the dated receipts for the oil and filter that you purchased and/or from where you got the oil & filter changes performed. If you can't produce documentation or if your documentation shows that the maintenance was not performed in a timely manor using the factory recommended grade of oil, they can AND WILL deny a warranty claim. I have personally seen this happen. Keep one thing in mind, if you don't do your maintenance by the book at the dealer, when it comes to a major engine failure the dealer will NOT be your friend.
Take this as a word of warning if you decide to use a longer OCI than the factory recommends or if you decide to use a different grade of motor oil than the factory recommends, when you do this YOUR ENGINE WARRANTY WILL BE VOID!

 

[TJPark01]

Guys please try and say on topic. This isn't a thread about warranties. It's a thread about:
What is your experience with M1 AFE? Can M1 AFE extend OCI's?

If someone wants to start a NEW thread about how doing your own oil changes affects warranty claims by all means do so.

 

[OVERKILL]

Originally Posted By: CMMeadAM
No doubt they do vary wildly grade to grade. Something else may also. Hint: their use of Viscosity Index IMPROVERS !


Yes, but VII's don't make for insanely low pour points

 

[wag123]

Originally Posted By: TJPark01
Guys please try and say on topic. This isn't a thread about warranties. It's a thread about:
What is your experience with M1 AFE? Can M1 AFE extend OCI's?

If someone wants to start a NEW thread about how doing your own oil changes affects warranty claims by all means do so.

Warranty status should be of CRITICAL importance to anyone considering using extended OCI's.

 

[TJPark01]

Originally Posted By: wag123

Warranty status should be of CRITICAL importance to anyone considering using extended OCI's.

OK, then be my guest and start a new thread, titled:
"Warranty status should be of CRITICAL importance to anyone considering using extended OCI's."