Yes I know. I tried searching and came up with nothing, then I came across it and didn't know how to delete my thread.
Mobil 1 0W30 Advanced Fuel Economy SP/GF-6A Cold Performance
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What I meant by that, without mentioning any brands and turning this into a debate on which 5W30 is best, is that there are a few particular 5W30 oils that tend to top most oil comparison tests all over the internet, and they all have specs in the CCS 4000 @-30 and MRV 12000 @ -35 range. Mobil 1 never seems to be up there with these oils.
So, my thinking was that if those specs translate to CCS 8000 @-35 and MRV 24000 @ -40 then yes, my CCS is obviously worse than M1 0W30, but the MRV is possibly better. And overall it seemed to me that the M1 may not give me much of a cold starting benefit, and furthermore may perform worse once hot.
However, as OVERKILL mentioned, my reasoning may be flawed that MRV would double from -35C to -40C. Not to mention that I am making lots of other assumptions as well.
The vast majority of oil tests on the internet are just pure bunk.
Go by specs and certifications and not by some guy on YouTube.
I understand, and I'm certainly not just talking about YouTube. But what spec will tell me which oil protects my valvetrain or rod bearings best, for example?
Why not try 5w30 EP instead of AFE? Heck, that far north and with those temps, I'd look at M1 EP 0w20.
Depending upon your engine performance and oil consumption, try using the new pennzoil 0w20 “full synthetic” it has a fantastic cold temp numbers. CCS 4,339 & MRV 13,400
Or you can go in the other direction with something castrol edge 0w40 with CCS of 5,800 (no MRV shown)
Pennzoil platinum euro 0w40 CCS 5,970 and MRV 13,200.
Just a thought.
Noticed mobile 1esp 0w40 didn’t give a CCS and the MRV was around 26,000?
Or you can go in the other direction with something castrol edge 0w40 with CCS of 5,800 (no MRV shown)
Pennzoil platinum euro 0w40 CCS 5,970 and MRV 13,200.
Just a thought.
Noticed mobile 1esp 0w40 didn’t give a CCS and the MRV was around 26,000?
I won't go below 30 weight, because our winter is not that extreme. I'm sure I'd be fine with the recommended 5W30 but I thought why not go 0W for the occasional extreme cold day around here.
Those are fantastic numbers for the 0W20, but I'm trying to stick with 30wt as per manual. If anything I'd do one of the 0W30 euro or ESP, or whatever, but I don't know much about how they differ. I noticed those are ACEA C3, and the manual calls for A5. It's a Hyundai GDI (unfortunately), with solid valve lifters, if that makes any difference on what I should be using.
Where are you, or better yet what is your tipical low temps? I personally don’t think 0w is needed unless you start getting down below -10f (-23c) often. Somewhere I seen graphs where the difference in viscosity between 0w and 5w doesn’t really differ much until you get below 0 degrees f (-17c).
I haven't looked, but I'd imagine Mobil 1 EP 5w30 would have a very good ability to handle extreme cold due to its PAO content. Might be worth a look!
There is no best. The current license specs are more than ample. The only exception is if you are running a special motor or racing etc.
Buy the oil with the latest specs and what your owners manual recommends.
I'm currently using Ravenol VSW 0w30 as it meets the specs called for by VW, 504 0w30, in the 3.6 in my cross sport. Not that it gets crazy cold where I live but it meets the specs called for.
OVERKILL
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I've managed to find a few oils that showed data points at temperatures above the CCS and MRV tests that supported "the rule" (can probably find if you search). The issue is when you get down to the CCS/MRV temperatures, as you are nearing the point where wax crystal formation can have a dramatic impact (particularly with MRV, being 5C colder) so it's possible for an oil to go from pumpable to non, even if it doesn't look like it would.
0w-30 seemed to be a "favourite" grade for our Expedition and I tested the CCS for a 5w-30 one winter in Quebec. She cranked SLOW with Pennzoil Ultra 5w-30. Never ran another 5w-30 after that. I used a lot of different grades in that vehicle but ultimately the most frequent was a 0w-30, typically M1 0w-30, but when we sold it there was Motul 0w-30 in the pan.
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This has been my experience as well with our Honda and its' small battery. It doesn't have to be -30 C for me to notice a difference in cranking speed between 5W-30 and 0W-30.
This is a great visual of mobile1 afe 0w30 vs esp 5w30 at -30c/-22f.
For the most part what "protects" an engine and the bearings is keeping the metal parts separated. This is primarily through the HT/HS (plus additives), so if you are worried about protection then an oil with a higher HT/HS is going to be beneficial. There's really no substitute for the MOFT.
I see -15 often, -23 sometimes, colder occasionally. 5W30 will be fine, but I figured why not 0W if I can. But I'm starting to see there is probably no point.
Great visualization, but video being 4 years old this isn't the M1 AFE I am questioning.
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