There is a youtube vid where a small engine repair guy tests MMO, Seaform etc with before-after checks on the heads and valves. They both work to clean carbon (as in the 1971 413), as they dissolve carbon and varnish.
Many "light oils" dissolve heavy crud - think lanolin or orange oil on your hands. The chemistry isn't my degree, but just slathering them on a carboned head for a day will soften and dissolve almost as well as sodium hydroxide.
What I did with the 50 yo Dodge was run it hot, pour some MMO in the carb and shut it off so it hot soaked. After about 6 cycles (while tuning the Holley and HEI) the intake bottom was clean iron, and the borescope showed clean valve stems and sparkling piston crowns.
Fresh oil change and it purred.
The (now retired) cab builder, Rick Walker had nothing good to say about most, crap, oxygenated gas - his advice was to run mid grade Chevron or Shell (the ones with additives) or add a qt of MMO per 60gal tank. He said never to use acetone in a carb engine.
TL-DR: those with modern, EFI vehicles should just stick with mid+ top tier gas.
Many "light oils" dissolve heavy crud - think lanolin or orange oil on your hands. The chemistry isn't my degree, but just slathering them on a carboned head for a day will soften and dissolve almost as well as sodium hydroxide.
What I did with the 50 yo Dodge was run it hot, pour some MMO in the carb and shut it off so it hot soaked. After about 6 cycles (while tuning the Holley and HEI) the intake bottom was clean iron, and the borescope showed clean valve stems and sparkling piston crowns.
Fresh oil change and it purred.
The (now retired) cab builder, Rick Walker had nothing good to say about most, crap, oxygenated gas - his advice was to run mid grade Chevron or Shell (the ones with additives) or add a qt of MMO per 60gal tank. He said never to use acetone in a carb engine.
TL-DR: those with modern, EFI vehicles should just stick with mid+ top tier gas.