Marvel Mystery Oil fixed my compression and misfire issue

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If the Type F had such good solvency, you would not need a brush.

Any ATF simply thins hydrocarbons such as deposits or engine oils.

ATF's have very low levels of detergents and dispersants and as such are very poor solvents.
So you’re telling me, if you an engine part such as an oil pan or something, you just put solvent on it and don’t use a brush?
 
So you’re telling me, if you [take] an engine part such as an oil pan or something, you just put solvent on it and don’t use a brush?
I am telling you about the chemistry and the viscosity of ATF and that ATF has much lower solvency than engine oils.

Let's not change the subject.

If you want to discuss cleaning chemicals and the cleaning of oil pans and engine parts then start a new topic in the Automotive Maintenance forum.
 
I am telling you about the chemistry and the viscosity of ATF and that ATF has much lower solvency than engine oils.

Let's not change the subject.

If you want to discuss cleaning chemicals and cleaning of oil pans and engine parts then start a new topic.

You can speak about the chemical make up all you want. I have before and I still am talking about type F as a cleaner for parts.

I’ve seen and have used it to unstick lifters almost 40 years ago. I’ve used it a safer parts cleaner than diesel fuel for decades like I stated before, speaking from experience, not some chemical makeup garbage.

Get out in the shop and clean some stuff with type F, then get back to me. Or find an old Chevy with sticky lifters. Drain a quart of oil, add a quart of type F. Let it run for an hour and see how it magically quiets the lifters. Lower solvency…..sludged lifters don’t think so.
 
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You can speak about the chemical make up all you want. I have before and I still am talking about type F as a cleaner for parts.

I’ve seen and have used it to unstick lifters almost 40 years ago. I’ve used it a safer parts cleaner than diesel fuel for decades like I stated before, speaking from experience, not some chemical makeup garbage.

Get out in the shop and clean some stuff with type F, then get back to me. Or find an old Chevy with sticky lifters. Drain a quart of oil, add a quart of type F. Let it run for an hour and see how it magically quiets the lifters. Lower solvency…..sludged lifters don’t think so.
Molakule makes ATF. He knows what he's talking about.

ATF does clean good, but just because something cleans doesn't mean it's a solvent
 
100 percent, these threads tend to go awry. Also the idea of electrical is a good one, but I don't recall OP mentioning anything about fixing an electrical issue at the same time.
There’s no electrical issues. There’s no rust whatsoever on the truck, and all the grounds that I can get to in the engine bay and on the frame has been cleaned with Deoxit. Also, I got a brand new Acdelco alternator right when I got the truck that works perfect.
 
There’s no electrical issues. There’s no rust whatsoever on the truck, and all the grounds that I can get to in the engine bay and on the frame has been cleaned with Deoxit. Also, I got a brand new Acdelco alternator right when I got the truck that works perfect.
Well then it must be the MMO that cleared up the misfire, especially considering you have that new alternator.
 
...You can speak about the chemical make up all you want. I have before and I still am talking about type F as a cleaner for parts.
Yes we know what you are talking about so no need to repeat.
I’ve seen and have used it to unstick lifters almost 40 years ago. I’ve used it a safer parts cleaner than diesel fuel for decades like I stated before, speaking from experience, not some chemical makeup garbage....
I know there is no chemical garbage in Type F ATF because I know what is in it.

You're confusing "cause-and-effect." Type F ATF is a basic hydraulic fluid designed for early Ford transmissions.

Most over the counter Type F ATF are composed of a thin Group II+ base oil with an anti-wear component, an anti-oxidant, and a low amount of detergent.

The only thing in any ATF that will break up the carbon is in the anti-wear component which is the phosphorus contained within the ZDDP chemistry. Nothing in ATF can be considered as a solvent.

ATF's thinness or low viscosity is the major reason for using it as an alternative to diesel fuel or naphtha or Berryman's for parts washing.
 
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This thread did exactly what I figured it would do. Here's the rub, you get a car that has a ticking lifter, fresh oil and a new filter didn't resolve the issue, and hadn't done so for several oil changes. Maybe for even for years. Then someone suggests changing the oil and adding a bottle of product XYZ, the lifter noise is silenced after a few hundred miles, and stays silenced. Then if visual inspection down the oil fill hole and cutting open the filter showed evidence of cleaning we'd have a winner. If and only if product XYZ had a name that didn't contain the word Marvel or Mystery in it. ;) I had some great results with it over the years, and no it wasn't in my head. :) Merry Christmas Bitog!
You can believe whatever you like, and use whatever you like. I think the main point Astro & kschachn are trying to make is, using fluids or additives that don’t contain proven cleaners like alkylated napthalenes or polar esters, or even the dreaded solvents or chlorinated parrafins, it’s impossible to factually assign a specific outcome to something the chemical itself cannot do. MolaKule, the board’s premier transmission fluid formulator, has clearly said transmission fluids, even type F, will not clean like you assume. In your case, it’s highly likely your results would IMPROVE using just about any other fluid as Type F. It’s just the facts…

The problem when doing random tests (I’ve even done them myself) like this is not only: you only get one shot at finding “the one!”, but who’s to say all the previous things you tried weren’t at least partially responsible for the “improvements” you credit the last trial with? It’s clear this thread is headed for @TiGeo’s infamous IBTL comment, but before that let’s just reiterate what Astro said about correlation and causality.
 
You can believe whatever you like, and use whatever you like. I think the main point Astro & kschachn are trying to make is, using fluids or additives that don’t contain proven cleaners like alkylated napthalenes or polar esters, or even the dreaded solvents or chlorinated parrafins, it’s impossible to factually assign a specific outcome to something the chemical itself cannot do. MolaKule, the board’s premier transmission fluid formulator, has clearly said transmission fluids, even type F, will not clean like you assume. In your case, it’s highly likely your results would IMPROVE using just about any other fluid as Type F. It’s just the facts…

The problem when doing random tests (I’ve even done them myself) like this is not only: you only get one shot at finding “the one!”, but who’s to say all the previous things you tried weren’t at least partially responsible for the “improvements” you credit the last trial with? It’s clear this thread is headed for @TiGeo’s infamous IBTL comment, but before that let’s just reiterate what Astro said about correlation and causality.
FTR-I made no mention of using ATF for cleaning an engine. It was brought up, but not by me. Regarding MMO, I made my point which I stated earlier, I'll quote myself:
Yep, it unhinges some people every time. I had good luck with it, now over 5 decades. I haven't had a need to use it in a few years though, age is creeping up I guess, and oil has gotten better. Oh and I haven't bought a used car in many years, so I know how my fleet is maintained. :) Merry Christmas!!
Then I said this, quoting another poster:
For sure! Just like with anything else, you need the right tool for the job. You're not going to fix an electrical issue with an engine cleaner that's for sure. I was just addressing the typical negative commentary. It's cold out today, and I have some time to kill.

It happened just like clockwork. I've been staying out of these MMO threads. I took a shot today knowing what was going to happen, and it did. Merry Christmas.

Edit to add: I said this as well: No mention of ATF anywhere.
This thread did exactly what I figured it would do. Here's the rub, you get a car that has a ticking lifter, fresh oil and a new filter didn't resolve the issue, and hadn't done so for several oil changes. Maybe for even for years. Then someone suggests changing the oil and adding a bottle of product XYZ, the lifter noise is silenced after a few hundred miles, and stays silenced. Then if visual inspection down the oil fill hole and cutting open the filter showed evidence of cleaning we'd have a winner. If and only if product XYZ had a name that didn't contain the word Marvel or Mystery in it. I had some great results with it over the years, and no it wasn't in my head. Merry Christmas Bitog!
 
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FTR-I made no mention of using ATF for cleaning an engine. It was brought up, but not by me. Regarding MMO, I made my point which I stated earlier, I'll quote myself:

Then I said this, quoting another poster:


It happened just like clockwork. I've been staying out of these MMO threads. I took a shot today knowing what was going to happen, and it did. Merry Christmas.

Edit to add: I said this as well: No mention of ATF anywhere.
Bah! Humbug! Wrong quote, right response… was intended for OP… apologies 🤣
 
Here is the analysis on the original MMO from 2014 and comments about each component in MMO:
Marvel Mystery Oil - Analysis by University lab (Any element with 2 ppm or lower is not reported)
Phos - 631 ppm Use: Anti-wear
Potassium – 60 ppm USE: Buffer and weak detergent.
Viscosity – 2.3 cSt@100C, 7.9 cSt@40C Comment: One very LV liquid! Due to light fraction Hydrocarbon Content. Flash Point – 143F
Hydrocarbons: Naphthenic Hydrocarbons Use: Oil Carrier and weak Solvent Mineral Spirits Use: A Medium Solvent
Chlorinated Hydrocarbons of orthodichlorobenzene Use: Strong solvent and decarbonizer.


General Comments:

1) MMO was originally designed as a fuel additive to help remove or reduce tetraethyl lead deposits created by the high lead content of previous era gasolines. Spark plugs might be good for a maximum of 30,000 miles because lead deposits would form shorts across the spark gap, resulting in misfires.

2) I do not recommend the use of MMO in the crankcase because the very low viscosity of MMO presents a problem for low viscosity oils in the XW20 range or lower, in that it reduces the oil thickness (viscosity), the Minimum Oil Film Thickness (MOFT) between reciprocating and rubbing parts,, and lowers HT/HS values.

3) IMHO, there are better fuel system cleaners out there with the PEA carbon dispersants included,

4) If you think you have stuck piston rings, or combustion chamber deposits, or sludge deposits, the High Performance Engine Cleaner (HPL EC) is currently the best engine cleaner available.
 
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I can clean parts and even my hands with stinking WD40 … but it’s staying on the paint side of my engines 🧐
 
. If and only if product XYZ had a name that didn't contain the word Marvel or Mystery in it. ;) I had some great results with it over the years, and no it wasn't in my head. :) Merry Christmas Bitog!
Exactly. I always thought the same thing about a certain oil in the past. If this certain oil didn't have the names "Royal" and Purple" in it, it very likely would have been a BITOG favorite, instead of the target of a BITOG hate fest.
 
This thread is a good example of how some people on the internet will argue about anything, all this talk of "causality" and "correlation," as if a double-blind placebo-controlled ivy league university test is required to prove anything... especially in the context of marvel mystery oil apparently fixing a 4.3 V6's problems in this case.

I appreciate the original poster sharing the story. I thought it was interesting. And I think a giant jug of MMO is like $25 or something, so why not give it a try? Knock yourself out. It's very unlikely to hurt anything, and maybe the problem will be fixed. Then other people can argue how it must have been some other ghost in the machine that was the REAL fix, and it wasn't MMO because MMO is ******** snake oil or whatever... And it will at least entertain those people for a few precious minutes, giving them something to argue about on the internet.

For me, I have a jug of MMO on my shelf and sometimes dump a pint or so in my TBI 350 and let it run for 200 miles (or just idle 10 minutes) before I change the oil. Does it accomplish anything? I don't know. It sort of entertains me and that counts for something. 😆😆

Merry Christmas everybody.
 
Though I believe that the OP has a cool story to convey, but if knowledge is why we are here to begin with (as it is for me) then by reading @MolaKule's post, we all should gain knowledge and appreciate it! Nothing beats knowledge and science in real life.
 
Though I believe that the OP has a cool story to convey, but if knowledge is why we are here to begin with (as it is for me) then by reading @MolaKule's post, we all should gain knowledge and appreciate it! Nothing beats knowledge and science in real life.

Very true……but in the OP’s case, it or SOMETHING cured his issue. I suppose a pint of diesel or kerosene in the oil could have done just as well for his issue. Nearly any off the shelf engine flush or one of the home grown treatments could have worked as well as MMO.
 
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