MAG 1 conventional oil

[SC Maintenance]

I've only seen MAG1 in franchised Ace Hardware locations, Farm & Fleet, and I remember a parts store listing it in their sales flyer. I'm sure it's a perfectly fine oil, but I just never needed it at the few times I've ran across it or maybe the price was high enough that I decided I'm not paying that when I can get 'fill-in-the-blank-oil' at WM for less.

I agree about WM and conventional oil. A) Why bother when semi-synthetic or full synthetic Supertech can be had for $21 for a 5-quart bottle and B) shelf space is precious in WM, so they stock what sells. If someone argues "they can't sell it if they don't have it", rest assured, at one point in time, WM has data that showed declining sales of conventional vs increasing sales of semi- or full synthetic and they made the decision back then to switch over.

My walmart has tons of conventional and semi syn. They have 10W-40 Havoline and I believe it was 10W-30 Penzoil I saw in conventional. Or it might have been GTX. THey have 5W-30 semi in Motocraft, Havoline and GTX. Might be more. And this store is not that well stocked.

Just no Supertech conventional / semi.

Might be regional? Last time I was there still no new Purolator filters - they still had the Fram whatever. They did have the new M1 with Premium Guard build though.

Looks like we can order some flavors of Mag1 from Lowes, which is good to know.

 

[ka9mnx]

Back when Warren Distribution was privately owned and published detailed PDS's, Mag1 and SuperTech were identical.

 

[Jackson_Slugger]

It's a syn-blend if not almost a full syn according to the MSDS...

I should follow up that the MSDS shows a 50/50% blend of hydrotreated and solvent dewaxed oils, but I wouldn't be shocked if it were mostly Group III....

 

[nbpt100]

I am pleasantly surprised there are so many responses in so little time.

However, I guess no one knows of any performance data with the MAG 1. With all of the oil nerds on here I expected something.

I am using it in air cooled small engines that recommend 10w-30.. My local Indy auto parts store has just started carrying it in only the conventional 10w-30. At least for now. For now at this store it has replaced their house brand called Parts Master. I have been using Parts Master for years in warm weather small air cooled engines. Straight 30 or 10w-30.

The counterman said it is the same as the Parts Master. I bought it because Parts Master was not available and it was about the same price. What ever all of that is worth. Both are rated API SP. The Parts Master oil says it is made by Valvoline LLC. Lexington , KY.

It clearly says conventional and not a Syn blend.
It says on the bottle it is manufactured by Warren Distribution which I just learned is a different company from Warren Oil who makes Super tech.

Did I get that correct??

OK , the FMX is a legit additive package. But does that make it anything special or practically better than ST, NAPA, Amalie or any other lower priced conventional oil. By Hype, I meant, is it anything worth noting. Does it make the product superior? Or, Is it an additive that is simillar to what most others use making it more ordinary?

For what it is worth it uses the same bottle I have seen Super Tech bottled in. Just black not blue.

I am not concerned if either oil is good. They are good enough I am sure. I am curious if one may be significantly better for a small air cooled eninge. AS I initially said, I read a post that said Mag 1 is a level better than ST. This sounded like an opinion based on an assumption, but who knows. Take me at my word, I am just curious. Everyone has anecdotal experiences and opinions about oil. I was hoping to walk away with some facts not folk tales. Maybe the vast knowledge base just does not know of much about Mag1.

 

[MolaKule]

I am pleasantly surprised there are so many responses in so little time.

However, I guess no one knows of any performance data with the MAG 1. With all of the oil nerds on here I expected something.

I am using it in air cooled small engines that recommend 10w-30.. My local Indy auto parts store has just started carrying it in only the conventional 10w-30. At least for now. For now at this store it has replaced their house brand called Parts Master. I have been using Parts Master for years in warm weather small air cooled engines. Straight 30 or 10w-30.

The counterman said it is the same as the Parts Master. I bought it because Parts Master was not available and it was about the same price. What ever all of that is worth. Both are rated API SP. The Parts Master oil says it is made by Valvoline LLC. Lexington , KY.

It clearly says conventional and not a Syn blend.
It says on the bottle it is manufactured by Warren Distribution which I just learned is a different company from Warren Oil who makes Super tech.

Then it was bottled before the Highline/Warren merger.

Did I get that correct??

OK , the FMX is a legit additive package. But does that make it anything special or practically better than ST, NAPA, Amalie or any other lower priced conventional oil. By Hype, I meant, is it anything worth noting. Does it make the product superior? Or, Is it an additive that is simillar to what most others use making it more ordinary?

I am not concerned if either oil is good. They are good enough I am sure. I am curious if one may be significantly better for a small air cooled eninge. AS I initially said, I read a post that said Mag 1 is a level better than ST. This sounded like an opinion based on an assumption, but who knows.

Mag1 is simply HW's main brand. Most modern mowers state to use 5W/10W30 synthetics, so why mess around with conventional versions when the price differential is minimal? Conventional is fine for air-cooled engines, just change more often.

Take me at my word, I am just curious. Everyone has anecdotal experiences and opinions about oil. I was hoping to walk away with some facts not folk tales. Maybe the vast knowledge base just does not know of much about Mag1.

What facts, other than those already stated, are you looking for? Please be specific!

 

[SR5]

What I like about Mag1 is their very comprehensive data sheets, they list almost everything, TBN, HTHS, Noack, Zinc, Moly, Boron, etc. Great data-sheets, everybody else should follow their lead.

Why I would trust Mag1 is that it carries formal OEM certification, their synthetic 5W30 is Dexos1-Gen3, and even their SAE30 conventional monograde is API SP.

 

[nbpt100]

Then it was bottled before the Highline/Warren merger.

Mag1 is simply WH's main brand. Most modern mowers state to use 5W/10W30 synthetics, so why mess around with conventional versions when the price differential is minimal? Conventional is fine for air-cooled engines, just change more often.


What facts, other than those already stated, are you looking for? Be specific!

I was hoping for 3rd party testing or people sharing their UOA. Perhaps some kind of Independent lab testing data. Or even a guy like Project Farm with some type of test. I know the links posted to the company spec sheets are factual. Even though I already glanced over them before I asked my question. I do appreciate the good faith in which they were shared. I guess my curiosity was satisfied enough. It is what it is.

I just want to put your other statements in the proper context for others who may be reading this. Unless a new engine has come out in the in the past couple of years, I do not know of any small engine that requires the use of Synthetic motor oil. When you say "STATE TO USE", it implies required. I do not know if this was just poor wording or if this is what want to mean? It is an option, mostly for convenience based on ambient temperature. Briggs suggests it when operating continuously in temps over 90F. For general warm weather, the use of SAE 30 is a sensible choice in most small engines where I live, for a number of reasons of which I do not want to digress into. I never asked about the conventional vs synthetic issue. You seemed to want to make this the new subject. It is not a bad topic but you should start a new thread. I do not want to debate it. Again, I just want to put what you said in the correct context so nobody is misguided. Also, the use of synthetics does not change the recommended OCI. Most small engines do not have oil filters and are very different from a car engine. Keeping to the recommended OCI is your best defense for engine longevity. Briggs and Stratton states, If you use a synthetic oil it does not alter the required OCI. For reference, the below is from Briggs and Stratton. If you look at Kohler literature is has some slightly different temperature ranges and viscosity but it follows the same basic thinking. Their own branded small engine oil is now Semi Synthetic, but they do state you have to use their oil or you can't use conventional. They are fine with using SAE 30 over 50 degrees.

Cheers!

Lawn mower oil type recommendations​

Different oil types can work best at certain temperatures. Learn which one to choose for your climate.

• SAE 30 - Warmer temperatures, most common oil for small engines.
• SAE 10W-30 - Varying temperature range, this grade of oil improves cold-weather starting, but may increase oil consumption.
• Synthetic SAE 5W-30 - Best protection at all temperatures as well as improved starting with less oil consumption.
• SAE 5W-30 - Very cold temperatures.
• Vanguard 15W-50 - Varying temperature range. For continuous-use, such as commercial lawn cutting or pressure washing.

When choosing lawn mower oil, use a high-quality detergent oil classified as "For Service SF, SG, SH, SJ" or higher. Do not use special additives.

Synthetic oils are an acceptable oil at all temperatures. The use of synthetic oil does not alter required oil change intervals.

Purchase the right oil for your engine at shop.briggsandstratton.com.

*Below 40°F (4°C) the use of SAE 30 will result in hard starting.
**Above 80°F (27°C) the use of 10W30 may cause increased oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently.

 

[MolaKule]

Project Farm has been shown to be a total joke.

I was hoping for 3rd party testing or people sharing their UOA. Perhaps some kind of Independent lab testing data. Or even a guy like Project Farm with some type of test. I know the links posted to the company spec sheets are factual. Even though I already glanced over them before I asked my question. I do appreciate the good faith in which they were shared. I guess my curiosity was satisfied enough. It is what it is.

Third party testing is very expensive so that is out of the question unless you want to fund it yourself.

I just want to put your other statements in the proper context for others who may be reading this. Unless a new engine has come out in the in the past couple of years, I do not know of any small engine that requires the use of Synthetic motor oil. When you say "STATE TO USE", it implies required. I do not know if this was just poor wording or if this is what want to mean? It is an option, mostly for convenience based on ambient temperature. Briggs suggests it when operating continuously in temps over 90F. For general warm weather, the use of SAE 30 is a sensible choice in most small engines where I live, for a number of reasons of which I do not want to digress into. I never asked about the conventional vs synthetic issue. You seemed to want to make this the new subject. It is not a bad topic but you should start a new thread. I do not want to debate it. Again, I just want to put what you said in the correct context so nobody is misguided. Also, the use of synthetics does not change the recommended OCI. Most small engines do not have oil filters and are very different from a car engine. Keeping to the recommended OCI is your best defense for engine longevity. Briggs and Stratton states, If you use a synthetic oil it does not alter the required OCI. For reference, the below is from Briggs and Stratton. If you look at Kohler literature is has some slightly different temperature ranges and viscosity but it follows the same basic thinking. Their own branded small engine oil is now Semi Synthetic, but they do state you have to use their oil or you can't use conventional. They are fine with using SAE 30 over 50 degrees.

**Above 80°F (27°C) the use of 10W30 may cause increased oil consumption. Check oil level more frequently.

I think most people understood my response so you must be in the minority. My synthetic comment came from a recently purchased Craftsman mower Op. Man. with a B&S engine.

A conventional oil of Group II bases do not have the same life as a synthetic because of the many factors you can read about on BITOG. https://bobistheoilguy.com/synthetic-base-oils-discussion-one-perspective/

Q1: What performance facts, other than those already stated, are you looking for? Please be specific!

Q2: Why would a 10W30 cause more oil consumption?

 

[nbpt100]

I think most people understood my response so you must be in the minority. My synthetic comment came from a recently purchased Craftsman mower Op. Man. with a B&S engine.

I still do not understand your response. What Cman model number and what Briggs engine? Maybe I will learn something new.

 

[MolaKule]

I still do not understand your response.

Which statement are you misunderstanding?

Now, here are some facts and questions for you.

A conventional oil of Group II bases do not have the same life as a synthetic because of the many factors you can read about on BITOG. https://bobistheoilguy.com/synthetic-base-oils-discussion-one-perspective/ Did you read the White Paper?

Q1: What performance facts or factors, other than those already stated, are you looking for? Please be specific!

Q2: Why would a 10W30 cause more oil consumption?

 

[nbpt100]

Thanks for that link. I have been working on small engines for a over 10 years and I do not know of any Briggs mower engine that requires synthetic oil. The only requirement I know of is what I shared from Briggs in post 37. If the engine is used over 100 deg F then they suggest Synthetic. If they have new requirements I would like to learn but I have been to their website and have not seen it. Are you saying your mower came with Synthetic oil when purchased new? Or When you say " needs",do you mean it is a beneficial improvement to use Synthetic. If something has changed on their newest manufactured mower engines I would like to know.

As far as all of your questions, like a good lawyer, everyone reading knows, you know the answers. Why not just tell everyone and we can conclude this thread?

 

[cptbarkey]

@nbpt100 alot of the data you are looking for is buried in this old format called an internet forum. Its a terrible format for housing data. If you want UOAs, you have to dig and search in the UOA section for minutes if not hours. You can try and short cut things because google has indexed a bit of it, but you still need to dig.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bob...HZhPC6wQrQIoAnoECBAQAw&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1

Good luck.

 

[nbpt100]

@nbpt100 alot of the data you are looking for is buried in this old format called an internet forum. Its a terrible format for housing data. If you want UOAs, you have to dig and search in the UOA section for minutes if not hours. You can try and short cut things because google has indexed a bit of it, but you still need to dig.

https://www.google.com/search?q=bob...HZhPC6wQrQIoAnoECBAQAw&biw=1920&bih=919&dpr=1

Good luck.

Thanks. That search technique is a great tip in general.