M1TDT 5w40 3319 mls 07 Mazda Speed 6

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998
Location
CO
From left to right Factory Fill, MC 5w30 GC 0w30, Shell Rotella T Syn 5w40, Amsoil Euro 5w40, Bruce Blend 5w40, and Mobil 1 Turbo Diesel Truck Miles on Sample 1274 1750 4211 1376 4512 2936 3319 Iron 14 10 16 8 13 16 13 Chrom 0 0 1 0 0 1 0 Lead 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Copper 187 75 114 40 13 6 4 Tin 0 5 0 0 1 1 0 Alum 5 6 6 0 3 2 4 Nickel 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Silver 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Sil 59 19 10 5 3 3 4 Boron 6 154 28 5 52 18 47 Sodium 0 0 0 3 5 11 7 Magni 19 13 473 94 20 9 606 Calc 1706 2027 1931 3328 1843 1730 1282 Barium 0 0 0 0 0 85 15 Phos 944 935 1006 1425 753 1428 1008 Zinc 1044 1050 1115 1454 948 875 1102 Moly 100 48 9 2 0 1 2 Titan 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Van 0 0 0 0 0 0 0 Potas 0 0 0 0 2 2 1 Anatomy 0 0 0 0 2 2 0 Fuel% <1 <1 <1 <.5 0 0 <.1 Visc @100c cst 9.06 8.59 10.87 12.8 11.73 11.68 11.9 Water% NA NA NA <.1 NA NA <.1 Coolant NO NO NO NO NO <.1 Soot N/A N/A N/A <.1 NA NA <.1 TBN 4.84 5.14 6.04 9.48 3.25 4.79 3.83 Nitr N/A N/A N/A 15 NA 19 Oxid N/A N/A N/A 11 NA 20 Cars mileage at time of sampling was 20,732 and I have the M1 TDT 5w40 in again with a K&N air filter with a Motorcraft oil filter in. The M1 is consistantly rough for the first 1K miles or so as it shears down. Other than that nothing new to note and driving habits and MPG remain the same.
 

Nederlander75

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998
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CO
The RTS was stinking heavily of gas so I jumped the gun. Id imagine it would have been fine left in there, though it does appear to have sheared a little faster than the other 40wt oils. Not sure if that would have continued.
 
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331
Location
San Jose, CA
Nederlander75, get your flame suit on. The Rotella fanboys are coming to get you! In the end, any one of the GC, RTS, Amsoil Euro, or M1 TDT would have given you great wear numbers if you gave them enough time. I think it's more important for you to select one and stick with it, so that the oil chemistry can have a chance to work and adhere to engine parts.
 
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1,648
Location
Little Rock, AR
 Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Just curiosity, but why are you using a 40 wt oil in a 20 wt car?
Also, any difference in responsiveness between the factory fill and the 40 "wts" ? And does your last comment on mpg mean that you had no noticeable difference in mpg between all oils ?
 

Nederlander75

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998
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CO
 Originally Posted By: ericthepig
 Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Just curiosity, but why are you using a 40 wt oil in a 20 wt car?
Also, any difference in responsiveness between the factory fill and the 40 "wts" ? And does your last comment on mpg mean that you had no noticeable difference in mpg between all oils ?
The car is actually spec'd for 30wt. I run the 40 wt to give the oil a longer run to dilute/shear down. Actually the best MPG has come from RTS and Ams Euro over the 30wts at up to 28mpg versus the EPA spec of 25 and the GC, 30wts, and M1 run between 23 and 26 mpg avg. The power actually seemed to improve with Bruce Blend and Ams Euro. The GC and M1 ran rough for about 1K miles. I realize the bouncing brands doesnt help much, but feel pretty good after all this and the work Bruce has done that I dont need to spend much to get an oil that will cope with fuel dilution in this app given the overall consistancy.
 
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6,159
Location
KY
Glad you still like the car, Nederlander. My 2007 MS3 has over 41K on it and I'm thoroughly bored with it(this from a guy who usually keeps his cars a minimum of 5-15 years). That's what happens and you get impatient and buy what's available instead of waiting a bit longer and getting what you really want...
 
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5,413
Location
KC
 Originally Posted By: ekpolk
Just curiosity, but why are you using a 40 wt oil in a 20 wt car?
Sigh.....Mazda does not spec a 20wt for this car.
 
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5,413
Location
KC
 Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
...... I realize the bouncing brands doesnt help much, but feel pretty good after all this and the work Bruce has done that I dont need to spend much to get an oil that will cope with fuel dilution in this app given the overall consistancy.
I don't know if you are interested, but from what I have seen, adding an intake the speed 6 helps combat fuel dilution pretty drastically. With all the money you are spending on oil, using that money on an intake and going to cheaper synthetics might be a better choice. Good luck.
 

Nederlander75

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998
Location
CO
 Originally Posted By: FZ1
You should run the spec'd 30 weight. It's cold up there!
Only in the winter. Bruce Blend, the thickest so far, was run in the coldest months last winter and the car stayed outside each night from November through May. Temps got down to -10 a couple of times with no issues starting or initial roughness/hard running. I do typically feel the thinner the better under stable non problematic apps, however.
 

Nederlander75

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998
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CO
I don't know if you are interested, but from what I have seen, adding an intake the speed 6 helps combat fuel dilution pretty drastically. With all the money you are spending on oil, using that money on an intake and going to cheaper synthetics might be a better choice. Good luck. [/quote] I am interesting to the CAI, but went the way of the K&N as my Sil is way under control and I have a sizable warranty upgrade. So, if its going to blow up Im trying to get to under warranty. I think think I can cut back my expenditures on oil though as you say. Ive seen very, very stable PP 10w30 UOAs in this app. Im actually looking at going to plain old mineral MC 10w40 at 0.95$/qrt at AAP with its specs being so good. The ZDDP is in line with the rest of the MC gas oils so I doubt anyone interested in proving me not using the spec'd oil would be able to tell, especially with all that gas. I do worry about a mineral oils ability to handle fuel though.
 

Nederlander75

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998
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CO
 Originally Posted By: MCompact
Glad you still like the car, Nederlander. My 2007 MS3 has over 41K on it and I'm thoroughly bored with it(this from a guy who usually keeps his cars a minimum of 5-15 years). That's what happens and you get impatient and buy what's available instead of waiting a bit longer and getting what you really want...
Ive heard that from a couple other MS3 drivers. I would too with FWD. The AWD in the MS6 rivals my EVO in the corners. Id have to say this is the best overall car Ive ever owned over Mitsu's, GMs, Mopars, BMWs, Nissans, and Audis.
 
Last edited:
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5,413
Location
KC
 Originally Posted By: Nederlander75
I am interesting to the CAI, but went the way of the K&N as my Sil is way under control and I have a sizable warranty upgrade. So, if its going to blow up Im trying to get to under warranty. I think think I can cut back my expenditures on oil though as you say. Ive seen very, very stable PP 10w30 UOAs in this app. Im actually looking at going to plain old mineral MC 10w40 at 0.95$/qrt at AAP with its specs being so good. The ZDDP is in line with the rest of the MC gas oils so I doubt anyone interested in proving me not using the spec'd oil would be able to tell, especially with all that gas. I do worry about a mineral oils ability to handle fuel though.
The MazdaSpeed intake will not void your warranty.
 
Messages
1,877
Location
Pacnw
If you are trying to compare how the oils held up, it would be helpful to normalize the OCI IMO. The Rotella numbers are the best by far but with only a 1300 mile OCI how can you compare to the other runs? I would run out Rotella to comparable mileage and see if it is still the best.
 
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1,877
Location
Pacnw
If I am reading it right, the 4th column is Rotella and iron is low, viscosity high, TBN high, etc. So if we looked at only the numbers without taking into account OCI, then Rotella looks great, but without consistent OCI how can we even compare to other longer runs?
 
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