M1 5w20 vs. Havoline dino 5w20

[hominid7]

I seem to be getting better gas mileage when using 93 octane, i need to get my calculator out and figure out if it too is really worth it.

I hate math

Edit: OK, i know this is off topic, but here it is anyway...

Assuming a 10 gallon gas tank and assuming regular unleaded is 2.59 and premium is 2.99.

Assuming i get 19 MPG using regular unleaded and 22 MPG using premium unleaded.

Cost per mile using regular = .136

Cost per mile using premium = .1359

So using these numbers, one would have to get 3 MPG better to break even using premium. That's also assuming there are no other benefits from using premium.

My guess is i get approx 2 MPG better using premium, and 1 or 2 using the mid-grade, so i hope at least i'm breaking even and hopefully getting more HP out of the engine and possibly running cleaner.

Now if one gets better or worse using synthetic vs premium oil vs using premium or regular fuel, oh no, thats just too much math....

[ April 12, 2006, 05:05 PM: Message edited by: hominid7 ]

 

[hominid7]

quote:

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Originally posted by farrarfan1:

Mobil1 5W20 is 48.8cst at 40c, Havoline is 46 cst at 40c.Again the Mobil1 is not thinner.Please explain how a lack of VII's makes an oil "slicker".

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Seems to me if an oil has more additives and VII in the mix it will have less lubricating properties.

Here is a quote from Mobil1's website:

Historically, conventional oils lack the performance of synthetic oils in the areas of low-temperature performance and high-temperature oxidation stability. Conventional motor oil is made up of an inconsistent mixture of long and short chains of carbon and hydrogen atoms. In the extreme heat of an engine, short-chain molecules can evaporate, and unstable molecules can oxidize and break down. Conventional oils also contain much greater amounts of impurities, such as sulfur, reactive and unstable hydrocarbons, and other undesirable contaminants that cannot be completely removed by conventional refining of crude oil.


Just to be clear, I dont use mobil1, and have no plans to. I prefer using dino oil as I'm not a big believer that the benefits (which there are some) of pure synthetics are worth the added price when used in "most" applicatiions.

 

[Blue99]

quote:

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Seems to me if an oil has more additives and VII in the mix it will have less lubricating properties.

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Actually, VI improver additives, which are generally synthetic, can also be friction modifiers and add to the performance of the lubricant.

A prime example is the use of VI improvers & friction modifiers in dino/conventional motor oils to beat the PAO reference oil in the GF-4 Sequence VIB fuel economy test.

The temporary shear characteristics of the VI improvers allows the dino/conventional oils to better the PAO reference oil by 1-2.5% in fuel economy.

Also, just as a general statement, additives enhance the ability of an oil to lubricate in an engine environment with exposure to heat, fuel, combustion by-products, & moisture.

- A straight PAO base oil, without additives, will not outperform an API SM dino oil over a 3K OCI interval.

 

[farrarfan1]

 

[farrarfan1]

quote:

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Originally posted by hominid7:
10w30 Havoline dino may not be thinner than 10w30 Mobil1 at 100*C, but if you were to measure it at -50*C the Mobil would certainly be thinner. [/QB]

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The original poster was talking about the oils performance at 80 MPH not -50 and you gave an innaccurate answer.

 

[UncleS2]

Since no one else has broght this up, I will. Jeepster Nut, how many miles do you have on the Havoline so far? I ask because the 5w20 has a *big* dose of Moly(~400+ ppm, I believe), & for the first few hundred miles, or even a thousand or two, the moly may be "plating up" & producing a bit of extra drag. If so, this should stop within a few hundred to a couple thousand miles, & after that things should be more "normal". If you want to investigate, &/or help things along- once the car is well warmed up, do a few "banzai runs" in it. That is, take off easy enough, but then take it to near redline in the first 3 gears. If it's an automatic(oh the humanity!

) just stand on it & steer a few times a week.

Or it may just be that your car likes Mobil 1 better!

 

[Jeepster_nut]

I have about 300 miles on it today (Friday). I have noticed that since I hit a half tank of fuel, that the fuel mileage has been the same as M1.I take it that extra Moly is good for the engine? I have the 5 speed, automatic Civics are kinda weird shifting to me, but that's just me.

 

[UncleS2]

300 miles? I'd say: Wait until you have at least 1000 miles on it before you make any big decisions. Heck, wait until you have 3000 miles on it.

So mileage seems to be increasing a little already, huh? Sounds like the first fill of Schaeffer blend I tried several years ago. At first, felt kinda draggy, & mileage actually dipped by about 2 mpg for a tank or two. And then things began to improve.

Your car sounds a *lot* like what Bob told me might happen with my first fill of Schaeffer back then.

Here's an idea: keep track of all your gas mileage, drain the Havoline at 3K, then: it's cheap, so fill with 5w20 Havoline again. Keep on keepin' track of gas mileage, & make any long-term decisions based on the *second* fill of the same oil. You can always go back to M1, or any other oil of your choice, later.

Keep us posted!