I switched to Havoline from M1. Now I notice the motor isn't as smooth at highway speeds (80mph).It also seems that it doesn't rev up to 80mph as quickly. Is this my imagination or can the switch from M1 to dino really do this? From what I've read on here, havoline is a good 5w20 wt. oil (which is why I used it). The car is an '04 Civic LX non Vtec.
M1 5w20 vs. Havoline dino 5w20
- Thread starter Jeepster_nut
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Mobil1 is thinner and "slicker", thats why it revs easier.
Thanks. I guess its back to M1 after this 5k mile interval is up
I should have said thinner and thus "slicker". Especially at startup and cold temps.
Once the dino starts to shear slightly it might get "slicker" than the mobil1.
If i had a new civic, i'd stick with a good dino 5w20, but thats just me
Once the dino starts to shear slightly it might get "slicker" than the mobil1.
If i had a new civic, i'd stick with a good dino 5w20, but thats just me
Mobil's website shows M1 5W20 is 8.8cst at 100c. Butlers VOA shows havolines 5W20 is 8.3 and Havoline says it's 8.0. How did you determine M1 is thinner than Havoline? Also how do you determine one oil is "slicker" than another?
What I am interested in is gas mileage (who isn't these days)? I commute 28 miles each way to work 5 days a week. By humpday (Wednesday) I still have over a half tank of fuel left, almost 3/4- but not quite. Today is wednesday with the Havoline dino and I am at a half tank. Same driving conditions, same fuel, same ambient temps.With M1 costing $3 more per quart, that is about $12 more per oil change. I figure that I will save that in fule over the course of a 7000 mile OCI with M1.A penny for your thoughts
Havoline 5w20 with LC20 and FP60. You will probably see a little better gas mileage and synthetic like performance for a 7000 mile OCI. 7000 miles is streatching it for most dino oils but the additive LC20 should get you to that mark with no sweat. LC20 and FP60 are not expensive to use and overall will be less than the cost of M1. Best to do a UOA to fine tune the doseage of these additives. However, after all is said in done, if M1 simply performs better in your engine by all means use it.
I've tried Mobil 1 and Castrol Syntec in my Corolla (1.8l I4) and check MPG every tank.
No difference in MPG over 5k runs with each over Conventional oil. My best MPG was with Castrol GTX and slowing down to 55-60 mph. (46 mpg)
But even at 70-75, still better MPG using Castrol GTX. (41-43 mpg)
In my Truck (Silverado 4.8l V8, 4x4 Ext-cab), better MPG with Pennzoil Conventional over Mobil 1. (21-22 mpg)
This is over many tanks and using how many miles driven to how much gas put into the tank using the same pump/gas/Station.
As far as how the engine runs, I can not tell any differance between the oils I've run.
UOAs show some differance.
Halovine is excellent oil and will do your Honda well.
Take care, bill
No difference in MPG over 5k runs with each over Conventional oil. My best MPG was with Castrol GTX and slowing down to 55-60 mph. (46 mpg)
But even at 70-75, still better MPG using Castrol GTX. (41-43 mpg)
In my Truck (Silverado 4.8l V8, 4x4 Ext-cab), better MPG with Pennzoil Conventional over Mobil 1. (21-22 mpg)
This is over many tanks and using how many miles driven to how much gas put into the tank using the same pump/gas/Station.
As far as how the engine runs, I can not tell any differance between the oils I've run.
UOAs show some differance.
Halovine is excellent oil and will do your Honda well.
Take care, bill
I would base the decision on your drain interval. If you change oil at or less than 5K, choose Havoline. Over 5K, choose M1. The only way to determine which oil is 'thinner' is Cst, nothing to do with dino vs. syn. Another oil myth that will not die.
100*C is not what i would call "Cold temps" or "Startup" temps.
Mobil1 has less VII than dino Havoline, thus it is "slicker".
Doesn't the Havoline have a lot of moly while M1 has a relatively small amount? And if M1 5W-20 has a higher HTHS than Havoline 5W-20, those two things could explain the smoothness (from moly) and rev-happiness (lower viscous drag from lower HTHS) of Havoline 5W-20 over M1 5W-20.
How much is left in your tank is not a clear picture of what your MPG are. You would need to take an accurate reading over several months in all weather conditions and take an average.quote:
Originally posted by Jeepster_nut:
What I am interested in is gas mileage (who isn't these days)? I commute 28 miles each way to work 5 days a week. By humpday (Wednesday) I still have over a half tank of fuel left, almost 3/4- but not quite. Today is wednesday with the Havoline dino and I am at a half tank. Same driving conditions, same fuel, same ambient temps.With M1 costing $3 more per quart, that is about $12 more per oil change. I figure that I will save that in fule over the course of a 7000 mile OCI with M1.A penny for your thoughts
Since your last oil change to dino Havoline, perhaps it's been more windy, perhaps youve used the A/C more often, perhaps if its been nice you rolled the windows down more, perhaps since tinkering with your car you did a few more full throttle starts than usual, perhaps the last pump you filled up at shut off quicker than usual, meaning you had 1/2 gallon less to drive on. Lots and lots of factors can make a difference on MPG.
Keep a book in your car and at each fill-up record the gallons it took to fill up your tank, the miles driven on that tank, the date, and the oil in the car at that time. Record this for several months, using various oils, and only then can you get an accurate reading.
I've found that i get slightly better MPG in the winter months when i use 5w30. Thats because i make a lot of short trips. I would guess that if the majority of my miles were highway, that the difference between using 5w30 and 10w30 or dino and synthetic would be slim.
Mobil1 5W20 is 48.8cst at 40c, Havoline is 46 cst at 40c.Again the Mobil1 is not thinner.Please explain how a lack of VII's makes an oil "slicker".
Agreed.
I haven't used the Havoline so I can't comment on that, but I have used the M1 5W20 and MC5w20 in my Focus. Both performed the same and delivered comparable MPG, tracked by recording mileage and gasoline added over time. My mileage has improved by 1.5 to 2 mpg since I started using FP60. You might want to try the MC5W20 with FP60.
Thanks for all the replies. What is this FP60 stuff? An additive??
Yes, It's an additive. It has worked great for me.
www.lubecontrol.com
www.lubecontrol.com
10w30 Havoline dino may not be thinner than 10w30 Mobil1 at 100*C, but if you were to measure it at -50*C the Mobil would certainly be thinner.
I think you need to get a tad more precise in YOUR situation to really see if it makes sense to stay/go/switch to the different options in the 5w20 oils. Using a 04 Civic VP, here are some results.
Overall picture, the range of mpg has been 35-41 mpg in 27,000 miles.
I have had a 50 mile R/T commute, and since a job change have a 54 mile R/T commute. The commute average mpg in 10,000 miles with 5w20 conventional oil was between 35/36 mpg. The range with Mobil One 0w20 has been 37/39 mpg, again in 10,000 miles.
So one real question/calculation for me: is the lower cost of conventional oil and higher gas usage worth the higher cost of synthetic oil and lower fuel usage?
Given the figures,here's the math:
Conventional
3.4 qts @ 1 per =3.40 + 2.07 filter= 5.47
per 10,000 mile OCI
Synthetic
3.4 qts @ 4 per =13.60 + 2.07 filter= 15.77
per 10,000 mile OCI
Needless to say conventional oil is CLEARLY cheaper.
My average mph saved is 2. So 10,000/ 35/37 mpg= 286 gal/270 gal, minus = 16 gal SAVED x 2.70 current price of unleaded reg= 43.20
So if you add 5.47 + 43.20 average fuel savings=
48.60 vs 15.77.
(32.83 saved, or over the course of 250,000 miles 820.75)
Your call!
[ April 12, 2006, 04:36 PM: Message edited by: ruking77 ]
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