M1 0W40 In 5W30 Rated Applications ?

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I have a well maintained 2007 Kia Sedona 3.8L V-6 with 260,000 miles on it . I generally rotate around on sale 5W30 D1/G2 rated 5W30 synthetic oils at 5K ~ 6K mile / 6 month OCI's with a Fram Ultra filter. I was curious if there is any benefit to stepping up to M1 0W40 ? The Kia burns no oil and has no leaks on 5W30 synthetic now ... Your thoughts ?
 
Agreed, things are going great with your vehicle! I don’t see a need for the 0w in Georgia which it looks like you’re from.
With that said, I’ve run M1 0w40 in my Acura TL SH AWD which calls for 5w20, and never an issue. Keep in mind, in other markets around the world, 0W40 may well be a recommended oil in the manual. Just don’t find it here typically because of CAFE.

If you want to try something new for the sake of it, you couldn’t go wrong, but this is truly a case where it ain’t broke so staying true to 5w30 has no flies on it either.
 
Got 0W40 in 6 out of 10 vehicles I own/maintain. The other 4 vehicles will get their 0w40 at upcoming oil changes. All those vehicles recommend either 0w20 or 5w30 in US, but do have 0w40/5w40/10w40/15w40 listed in the owners manuals in other parts of the world. Having great results so far: vehicles that had slight valvetrain noise no longer have it with 0w40. One vehicle that had "piston slap" type of noise no longer has it either with 0w40. And overall vehicles that had no oil consumption - still don't have it. And vehicles that had oil consumption - have it reduced by a measurable amount with 0w40. Really does look like an oil that is good at everything... Don't know why people still stick to manufacturers recommendations past the warranty periods, the same manufacturers that often have factory/design defects in their vehicles.
 
I appreciate the replies - I may try M1 0W40 for grins in the summer but as other posters indicated I don't need a 0W in Georgia . Will run the thinner PPPP 5W30 in the "winter" here then switch to other 5W30 synthetic D1 / G2 rated oils which are a bit thicker 5W30 weights (M1 , QSUD , Valvoline Advance and maybe Castrol EDGE ) for the warmer months .
 
I don't see any potential benefit to switching. With a larger multi-viscosity spread (0w40 vs 5w30) there will be more VI additives. Not sure if 0w is needed in your climate because 5w30 is good well into sub-zero temps. As others have said, what you are doing is working great so I don't know why you would deviate. Plus 5w30 is widely available and usually less expensive than the 0w40 "European" viscosities. But do whatever feels good, 0w40 won't hurt your trusty Kia.
 
*I've decided to stay the course with the synthetic 5W30 D1 / Gen 2 oils I have in stock ... "If it isn't broken - then why fix it" ? prevails .
 
If you were going to change the oil soon on a 2.4L ecotech that's primarily short tripped and maybe gets 3000mi a year, would you use RGT 5W30 or M1 0w40 if you had both on hand, I'm thinking towards the M1.
 
Got 0W40 in 6 out of 10 vehicles I own/maintain. The other 4 vehicles will get their 0w40 at upcoming oil changes. All those vehicles recommend either 0w20 or 5w30 in US, but do have 0w40/5w40/10w40/15w40 listed in the owners manuals in other parts of the world. Having great results so far: vehicles that had slight valvetrain noise no longer have it with 0w40. One vehicle that had "piston slap" type of noise no longer has it either with 0w40. And overall vehicles that had no oil consumption - still don't have it. And vehicles that had oil consumption - have it reduced by a measurable amount with 0w40. Really does look like an oil that is good at everything... Don't know why people still stick to manufacturers recommendations past the warranty periods, the same manufacturers that often have factory/design defects in their vehicles.
Do any of your vehicles have cylinder deactivation? I wonder how 0W40 would affect this.
 
From what i have heard these VQ engines LOVE xW40 weight oils. I guess time will tell. lol

They do, the 5.6 gets M1 euro 0-40. Via several UOA from BS, it is the only oil I can get to 10K OCI with on the Wife's Armada. She puts a good bit of miles on it pre Wuhan virus, she works from home now and it mostly sits now.
I didn't try every oil...but the E0-40 has no problems going 10K in the 5.6
 
Do any of your vehicles have cylinder deactivation? I wonder how 0W40 would affect this.
Nope, I try to stay away from that system. Seems like it gets pretty unreliable with some miles on it, even with timely oil changes. And seems like Honda, Chevrolet, Dodge, or any other brand have equal amount of problems from that system, regardless of their approach.
 
Nope, I try to stay away from that system. Seems like it gets pretty unreliable with some miles on it, even with timely oil changes. And seems like Honda, Chevrolet, Dodge, or any other brand have equal amount of problems from that system, regardless of their approach.

Corvettes in "V4 mode" are funny.
 
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