Low/Mid SAPS oil for GDI?

[92saturnsl2]

What is the general consensus regarding low/mid SAPS oil contributing to less/fewer intake valve deposits on GDI engines?

Which commonly available (non-boutique) 0w/5w-40 oils can considered low/mid SAPS?

 

[skrypj]

Why not just get a catch can and prevent the oil from getting to the valves in the first place? My 2014 F150 ecoboost valves were very clean at 91k mile when i scoped them a couple weeks ago

 

[Ignatius]

What specific GDI engine are we talking about? I have had good luck used HDEO dual rated products like Rotella T6 Multi Vehicle 5w30 and am going to try out Chevron Delo XLE 10W30 in my Hyundai GDI next.

 

[OilUzer]

based on what I've read:

• I don't think the only contributing factor to ivd is via the pcv route.
• in general, catch cans are not that effective.
• I haven't seen a real study showing ivd friendly oils (low saps, etc.) significantly reducing ivd.

Could be wrong but it would be nice to know as we also own a DI car.

I think the only real solution to ivd and DI is MPFI.

 

[jurko]

Why not just get a catch can and prevent the oil from getting to the valves in the first place? My 2014 F150 ecoboost valves were very clean at 91k mile when i scoped them a couple weeks ago

Picture speaks louder than words.

 

[Accent Abuser]

based on what I've read:

• I don't think the only contributing factor to ivd is via the pcv route.
• in general, catch cans are not that effective.
• I haven't seen a real study showing ivd friendly oils (low saps, etc.) significantly reducing ivd.

Could be wrong but it would be nice to know as we also own a DI car.

I think the only real solution to ivd and DI is MPFI.

My car has 131k and I haven't had any issues. If I ever did I'd just blast it with CRC IVD cleaner. Frequent oil changes, low noack, and an engine that doesn't burn oil is probably more helpful than anything.

 

[edyvw]

What is the general consensus regarding low/mid SAPS oil contributing to less/fewer intake valve deposits on GDI engines?

Which commonly available (non-boutique) 0w/5w-40 oils can considered low/mid SAPS?

Lubrizol study is available here somewhere on European forum.
High SAPS VW502.00 left 167% move deposits than Low-SAPS VW504.00/507.00 oil did.
So, it is not consensus, there is actually scientific proof.
What vehicle?

 

[skrypj]

based on what I've read:

• I don't think the only contributing factor to ivd is via the pcv route.
• in general, catch cans are not that effective.
• I haven't seen a real study showing ivd friendly oils (low saps, etc.) significantly reducing ivd.

Could be wrong but it would be nice to know as we also own a DI car.

I think the only real solution to ivd and DI is MPFI.

i agree on thr MPFI. Glad Ford did this on their F150 motors.

Catch cans are not effective in what way? They dont catch anything? Mine on my F150 fills in
Also, I believe SAE did a study on a GTDI Saturn Sky Redline using a catch can and found lower valve deposits. There is an episode of Engineering Explained that talks about it.

i have used the CRC GDI cleaner on mine a bunch of times as well. Like I said, I scoped my valves at 91k and they were nearly spotless. I have seen guys post pictures on the Ecoboost groups that were really bad and they ended up getting them walnut blasted.

 

[Greasymechtech]

Do you have the SAE paper study? or the episode of engineering explained?
GS Caltex did their own testing and there was no difference in buildup with or without a catch can. A controlled variable is oil condition. Change oil more often and have less deposits.

Most catch cans are just condensation cans converting fuel/oil/water steam/vapor into a liquid. Eliminate the condensation with a hot coolant loop around the condensation can and see what really is being caught.

I'll try to find the study. But, there is one that shows the buildup of IV/port deposits occur when the engine is NOT running. Yes, when you shut off your engine, the combustion chamber/cylinder vapors condense and settle on the open valves/ports at every shutdown and harden during cooling. Sort of agrees with Caltex on source of IV/port deposits and why I don't use or recommend 'condensation cans'.

IVD, intake valve deposits, are not something I worry about.... the GDI-only engines in the garage and driveway get a yearly bottle or spray can IVD cleaners, usually a couple days prior to the summer oil change interval, along with a severe service OCI.

Mobil1 ESP are non-boutique oils and some grades are available locally, and pretty sure all are ~.8 sulfated ash. I am guessing the equivalent Pennzoil/Valvoline/..... are options too.

The question you need to ask... what are the low/mid SAPs oil sacrificing for reducing the intake valve and intake port deposits, when compared to a high SAPs oil?

 

[Accent Abuser]

Do you have the SAE paper study? or the episode of engineering explained?
GS Caltex did their own testing and there was no difference in buildup with or without a catch can. A controlled variable is oil condition. Change oil more often and have less deposits.

Most catch cans are just condensation cans converting fuel/oil/water steam/vapor into a liquid. Eliminate the condensation with a hot coolant loop around the condensation can and see what really is being caught.

I'll try to find the study. But, there is one that shows the buildup of IV/port deposits occur when the engine is NOT running. Yes, when you shut off your engine, the combustion chamber/cylinder vapors condense and settle on the open valves/ports at every shutdown and harden during cooling. Sort of agrees with Caltex on source of IV/port deposits and why I don't use or recommend 'condensation cans'.

Maybe that's why I don't have problems. My engine runs 8-10hrs for 200-300+ miles a day.

 

[Mainia]

I am now running Redline Performance 5W-30 Euro (mid SAPS) in my turbo Hyundai and was running Mobil 5W-30 ESP ( I think low SAPS??) before that. I am coming up on 30,000 miles in about 3 months. If I can find my cheap laptop bore scope, I want to pull my intake pressure switch and scope my intake ports to see how bad my new addition of valve carbon is.

 

[skrypj]

Do you have the SAE paper study? or the episode of engineering explained?
GS Caltex did their own testing and there was no difference in buildup with or without a catch can. A controlled variable is oil condition. Change oil more often and have less deposits.

Most catch cans are just condensation cans converting fuel/oil/water steam/vapor into a liquid. Eliminate the condensation with a hot coolant loop around the condensation can and see what really is being caught.

I'll try to find the study. But, there is one that shows the buildup of IV/port deposits occur when the engine is NOT running. Yes, when you shut off your engine, the combustion chamber/cylinder vapors condense and settle on the open valves/ports at every shutdown and harden during cooling. Sort of agrees with Caltex on source of IV/port deposits and why I don't use or recommend 'condensation cans'.

IVD, intake valve deposits, are not something I worry about.... the GDI-only engines in the garage and driveway get a yearly bottle or spray can IVD cleaners, usually a couple days prior to the summer oil change interval, along with a severe service OCI.

Mobil1 ESP are non-boutique oils and some grades are available locally, and pretty sure all are ~.8 sulfated ash. I am guessing the equivalent Pennzoil/Valvoline/..... are options too.

The question you need to ask... what are the low/mid SAPs oil sacrificing for reducing the intake valve and intake port deposits, when compared to a high SAPs oil?

Sorry, I never saw this. Here is the link:



Right around 3:00 is where he talks about the SAE study.

I agree that catch cans catch a whole variety of stuff. On my ecoboost, it settles out into 4 layers if you drain it and let it sit. The bottom layer is dark brown oily mixture and then there is a lighter brown layer, a white “foamy” layer and a yellow layer. The foam layer looks like the foam you get on a Starbuck Pumpkin cream coldbrew, mmmmm

I wouodnt care if the water, fuel and other stuff made it through.

 

[92saturnsl2]

Sorry, I never saw this. Here is the link:



Right around 3:00 is where he talks about the SAE study.

I agree that catch cans catch a whole variety of stuff. On my ecoboost, it settles out into 4 layers if you drain it and let it sit. The bottom layer is dark brown oily mixture and then there is a lighter brown layer, a white “foamy” layer and a yellow layer. The foam layer looks like the foam you get on a Starbuck Pumpkin cream coldbrew, mmmmm

I wouodnt care if the water, fuel and other stuff made it through.

Thanks for posting that video. How often do you have to drain the catch can?

 

[skrypj]

Thanks for posting that video. How often do you have to drain the catch can?

On my Ecoboost, a ton. In the summer, probably 1000 miles but in the winter it was every 500. I filled a windshield washer fluid bottle in less than 10000 miles. But it caught a lot more than oil as the post above suggests. The catch can I had sat out in front of the radiator so it got blasted by cold air and would condense out everything.

I had a hose that dropped down by the air dam so i would just put the bottle under it, pop the hood, and open the drain valve on the can. Took 30 seconds at most.