Thoughts on mixing 0w40 / 5w30 in GDI Turbo.

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I have several jugs of PUP 5w30 and PP Euro 0w40.
The PUP is low SAPS and the PPE is full saps so would mixing the two create a mid saps oil and be better for deposits on a 2.0 GDI turbo than just using the PPE alone?
I noticed more engine noise on cold starts when using straight PUP but less when using straight PPE.
My thought is the PUP is better to reduce deposits but the PPE is better for wear protection so mixing the two would be a middle ground.
Hyundai Veloster N DCT
 
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If you already have it on hand - mix it up to use it up. Just don't expect this frankenbrew to become the best of both worlds, because realistically now sump is just full of two weakened formulations. If you got enough of each to run on its own, then just run separately. But if it's just a few odd quarts that need to be used up - mix away, but don't extend the OCI. Mixing those two won't damage anything at normal OCI, but I doubt you'll see any performance benefits either.
 
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I have several jugs of PUP 5w30 and PP Euro 0w40.
The PUP is low SAPS and the PPE is full saps so would mixing the two create a mid saps oil and be better for deposits on a 2.0 GDI turbo than just using the PPE alone?
I noticed more engine noise on cold starts when using straight PUP but less when using straight PPE.
My thought is the PUP is better to reduce deposits but the PPE is better for wear protection so mixing the two would be a middle ground.
Hyundai Veloster N DCT
PUP 5w30 is not Low-SAPS as it falls under ACEA Ax/Bx

You're over thinking this. There's no trade off between deposits and wear protection consequently there's no middle ground to be found.

If you're concerned about IVD then you'd want to use an oil which falls under ACEA Cx: . Pennzoil (Euro L 5w30, Euro LX 0w30, Euro AV 5w30), Mobil 1 ESP line.

DISCLAIMER: PCV design and engine tuning are largely the determining factor with regards to the extent of the IVD. Using a low/mid saps (ACEA Cx) oil will reduce the rate of buildup but not prevent it.
 
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YotaTaco

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New Mexico
PUP 5w30 is not Low-SAPS as it falls under ACEA Ax/Bx

You're over thinking this. There's no trade off between deposits and wear protection consequently there's no middle ground to be found.

If you're concerned about IVD then you'd want to use an oil which falls under ACEA Cx: . Pennzoil (Euro L 5w30, Euro LX 0w30, Euro AV 5w30), Mobil 1 ESP line.

DISCLAIMER: PCV design and engine tuning are largely the determining factor with regards to the extent of the IVD. Using a low/mid saps (ACEA Cx) oil will reduce the rate of buildup but not prevent it.
PUP has much less phosphorus than Euro L but it's not low SAPS?

A full SAPS high TBN oil doesn't protect better longer than a low SAPS low TBN oil?
 
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YotaTaco

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Joined
Oct 31, 2005
Messages
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New Mexico
If you already have it on hand - mix it up to use it up. Just don't expect this frankenbrew to become the best of both worlds, because realistically now sump is just full of two weakened formulations. If you got enough of each to run on its own, then just run separately. But if it's just a few odd quarts that need to be used up - mix away, but don't extend the OCI. Mixing those two won't damage anything at normal OCI, but I doubt you'll see any performance benefits either.
I already ran the straight PUP 5w30 and it seemed to thin, more engine noise so I thought mixing it with the higher viscosity PPE 0w40 would raise viscosity plus give it a higher TBN, and lower SAPS than running the straight PPE for less IVD.
 
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in hotter climates a 10 or even 15W ia a better choice IMO, just try a sell the watery stuff!!! yes i am a thickie, nothing less than a 10W30 fake synthetic as most are + i live in PA!!
 
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