Looks like M1 EP 5w30 formulation has possibly changed.

[kschachn]

I asking here. Some bad attitudes on here noticing. Not new I've been on here at least 10yrs. Was reading a few threads that said formulation was changed possibly . Trying to get info. Just answered to be a wise guy? Weird.

Since you said you heard it here I was asking what you heard. And you said it was more than just a formulation change, you said it was not as good. Blenders change formulations all the time.

 

[doublebase]

Well, hopefully the old formula likes the new formula, because I’m mixing the two for my next 10,000 mile oil change interval. 2.5 quarts of left over old formula Mobil1 EP 0w20, and 4 quarts of new formula Mobil1 EP 0W20. Fram Ultra filter. Wonder what my percentage of PAO will be? 40ish%?

 

[dihi22]

ok what he hell is a PAO?

There are some articles on the main site bobistheoilguy.com
long story short its the 'orginal' synthetic base oil. It came out of a lab in 50s, and was the base stock for when Mobil introduced synthetic motor oil in the 70s. In the 90s castrol took good ole group II and upgraded it thoroghly to group III. So PAO is synthisized from feed chemicals and group III takes mineral oil from crude and does some trick with hydrogen cracking and they say i behaves like PAO. PAO still has the edge in certain areas, but group III has closed the gap in recent years apparently. So with PAO more expensive to make motor oils are shifting to group IIIs. Undoubtably some G IIIs are better than other.
Mobil got their own Grouping for PAO (group IV) and there have been legal cases going back and forth over the legal definition of sythetic, which mobil used to argue just means group IV and the other group Vs that are build up from base chemicals. The courts rolled their eyes and said let the market decide.
So no they don't quite have to tell you what your motor oil is made of. Its pretty established that full sythetic means a base stock that contains one or more of group III+, group IV and group V

 

[kschachn]

There are some articles on the main site bobistheoilguy.com
long story short its the 'orginal' synthetic base oil. It came out of a lab in 50s, and was the base stock for when Mobil introduced synthetic motor oil in the 70s. In the 90s castrol took good ole group II and upgraded it thoroghly to group III. So PAO is synthisized from feed chemicals and group III takes mineral oil from crude and does some trick with hydrogen cracking and they say i behaves like PAO. PAO still has the edge in certain areas, but group III has closed the gap in recent years apparently. So with PAO more expensive to make motor oils are shifting to group IIIs. Undoubtably some G IIIs are better than other.
Mobil got their own Grouping for PAO (group IV) and there have been legal cases going back and forth over the legal definition of sythetic, which mobil used to argue just means group IV and the other group Vs that are build up from base chemicals. The courts rolled their eyes and said let the market decide.
So no they don't quite have to tell you what your motor oil is made of. Its pretty established that full sythetic means a base stock that contains one or more of group III+, group IV and group V

Courts? Rulings? What?

More confused postings about this topic.

 

[dihi22]

With my 2020 CRV that had rather significant thinning out of grade by 3000mi running either M1 0W20 EP or AFE, I switched to 0W30 AFE on the recommendations here in BITOG and that has worked to an extent, however it does thin or shear out slightly below grade for a 0W30 but still above 0W20 viscosity at the 3000mi mark. So I'm just doing 3000-3500mi intervals using the Honda factory filters. My primary question is: due to difficulty sourcing M1 0W30 locally, what would be the benefits/drawbacks to switching to M1 5W30EP? here in Central Pa, it seldom gets below 5F so low temp flow isn't really a concern. The base viscosity of the 0W30AFE is a tad higher than the 5W30EP and the 5W30 does have Honda Approvals. My thoughts which I've inquired with both my Honda servicing tech (Master Certified) and my Service advisor, both said as far as warranty, it's both API rated SF/GF6 and Honda approved so no warranty concerns. Will probably stay with the 3000-3500Mi intervals, because there aren't any magic oils just approvals and viscosity.

I have a 21 rav4. Its stamped of 0w-16. At 4k miles i installed a fumoto drain valve on the oil pan and filled her with Mobil 1 5w-30 ep. Since you are doing shorter oil changes you can save the extra $3-$4 at walmart on the extended performance jug and just buy the mobil 1 5w-30 full synthetic.

I live in texas where cold in the depths of jan and feb is like 30 deg F. The cold performance of 0w vs 5w in a full synthetic is negligable as you point out. My Rav does not burn a drop, and i've been changing it every 5k or 9 mos. I haven't been doing much driving so the extra milage of the EP is not coming into play but i bought 2 on sale so whatever.

 

[dihi22]

Courts? Rulings? What?

More confused postings about this topic.

not the expert, but in the 90s there were disputes between mobil and cheveron as to what the label meaning of 'sythetic' was because castrol syntec wasn't really synthetic (looks around cautiously to see if castrol fanbois get angry). Castrol felt that group III should count and their marketing decision and reputation was at stake.

Ultimately no one is the oil business was told you can't say a group III is synthetic, so its accepted as such.

 

[dihi22]

Stout in what way(s)?

I think it means that its darker and a little more alcoholic. Unlike the lighter ambers that barely give me a buzz.

 

[AlpacaBowl]

I asking here. Some bad attitudes on here noticing. Not new I've been on here at least 10yrs.

Typical these days