Run it for 8k do a oil analysis to see what you have left
Looking for first person story: My warranty denied because of oil used
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Jackson_Slugger
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Never said it would. And even if a Ford dealership bothered to check the weight in the event of a warranty issue, they probably couldn't prove it was a 30W vs. 20W. I doubt they'd bother if the oil looked translucent and like it was regularly changed. They also recommend 5W-30 in the turbo charged version of my engine..
Meh, doubtful it makes any difference in normal engine operations in North America, with maybe some exceptions, with modern engine oil bases and the rigorous testing and spec's. I have used 5W-30 in summer in a Ford and it didn't do any harm nor do I think it protected any better than a good synthetic 0/5W-20...
Never said you claimed it would - it was a general comment. Lots of people seem to think that a xW-30 will "blow-up" their motor when the manual calls out a xW-20. Going up a grade never hurt any engine, but going down a grade has the potential to hurt a engine.
Pretty standard practice to retain adequate MOFT headroom in the higher strung engine with the potential to get the oil hotter. Most manufacturers seem to go up a grade on their turbo engines, for the added protection factor.
I said a xW-30 will give more protection (more HTHS, more MOFT), which is true - it's basic tribology backed up by many wear vs viscosity studies. Nobody knows just how close moving parts are to rubbing and wearing while driving atound, so having some added protection headroom can't hurt, just like you do with 5W-30 in the summer instead of running xW-20. If you're so confident in xW-20 to give full protection all the time, then why not run it in the summer too, and while pushing the engine hard in blistering heat?
Pretty much every oil related failure I've seen since I started using working on cars for a living was due to a lack of oil, even Hyundai's, it not directly the 5w20 and long drain intervals that kills them it's because they wear and start burning that 5w20 and then blow up cause the owner never checked the oil.
And it's possible the 5W-20 doesn't do well in those engines and causes them to start burning oil. Wear is caused by inadequate lubrication and/or inferior metallurgy. The ring pack is a very harsh environment and quite demanding for oil, and ring wear is pretty much at the top of the list when it comes to engine component wear.
Another BITOGer was just told that his dealership extended warranty was invalid because of DIY oil changes. Extended warranty's verbiage just said he needed proof of maintenance, but oil and oil filter receipts plus a log were deemed to be unacceptable.
OEM goodwill appears to have covered most of the repair, but yeah, DIY maintenance logs can be an issue.
What brand of vehicle?
So this thread has been going for four days straight now. What’s the score?
I worked at a dealer for neary 10 years
One customer had the factory filter on the car, very little oil and a locked up motor.
The vehicle was a Isuzu rodeo 2000?
They had specifically purchased the vehicle so the kid would have a ride at college.
The mom said she was sending her son money for vehicle maintenance….but it went to pizza and beer instead. That pizza and beer ended up costing the price of a new long block.
Another situation the Mitsubishi dealer literally across the street got a small chevy with a ecotech 2.4?. Their used car guy drained the oil put in a new filter cartridge but didn’t replace the oil until after the engine seized up. Dip stick was full filter was dry. I don’t remember what finally happened they might have towed it back across the street.
Point is the most memorable times were when oil was absent not when spitting hairs about 5w30 vs 0w20
One customer had the factory filter on the car, very little oil and a locked up motor.
The vehicle was a Isuzu rodeo 2000?
They had specifically purchased the vehicle so the kid would have a ride at college.
The mom said she was sending her son money for vehicle maintenance….but it went to pizza and beer instead. That pizza and beer ended up costing the price of a new long block.
Another situation the Mitsubishi dealer literally across the street got a small chevy with a ecotech 2.4?. Their used car guy drained the oil put in a new filter cartridge but didn’t replace the oil until after the engine seized up. Dip stick was full filter was dry. I don’t remember what finally happened they might have towed it back across the street.
Point is the most memorable times were when oil was absent not when spitting hairs about 5w30 vs 0w20
I bought a new GM that takes 0W20 dexos rated oil. I used K&N 0W 20 in my previous vehicle and have a stash of it. It does not have the dexos symbol on the oil container. Note that the oil was purchased in January of this year. I called K&N technical service to ask if it was Dexos rated and they said yes. I wonder why it does not have the dexos symbol on the oil container.
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I wonder if maybe K&N didn't want to pay GM to have their Dexos symbol on their bottles.
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
Sorry but what a crap and irresponsible comment. Tens of thousands of Hondas, Toyotas, and Fords have not had any such issue. Blaming OEM failures on a few CST's is just foolish!
And- I've seen Hyundai and Kia since their early introduction in the US market as they were popular with US military personnel as they were cheap. They often used lots of oil whether it was 5W-30 or 20W-50. It didn't' matter. I think I put more 20W-50 in an ex's Scoupe than she put gas in!
It's easier when you have a German car... since they have their specifications for oil to be used, AND you don't have to buy the manufacturer's branded oil, as there are plenty of aftermarket options that have been certified by the auto manufacturer to meet their specifications.
Jackson_Slugger
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I agree in principal and if you change your oil in accordance to manufacture spec's they won't bother realistically. But can you cite that actual law?
If I use 0W-16 in a Porsche 911 calling for 0/5W-40 and the engine grenades am I okay oh esquire?
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Let's say for example, a customer uses Signature Series in their vehicle, in an extremely unlikely event of an lubricant-caused failure, and the vehicle manufacturer says you have to use an oil that meets API-whatever specification. Since Amsoil Signature Series does not have an API oil license, like the OE and XL series, technically, it's unapproved oil.
Personally, i use the vehicle manufacturer's oil during the warranty period. After that, then I use whatever I want... which... btw, will there be a Signature Series 0W-16? I would like a PAO/POE oil, with the typical SS stout additive package.
Jackson_Slugger
$50 Site Donor 2022
From personal experience is the biggest thing that OEM's are looking for in accordance with warranty stuff relating to oil related failures is if you changed your oil at all. At the dawn of modern leasing, there were plenty of people that didn't change their oil until turning it back in after nearing 20K miles. So yes, in retrospect I guess Ford or GM probably didn't care if you used 5W-20 or 40, just that you might put some clean oil and a filter in the thing...
A as stated legally it depends on EXACTLY how the "requirement" is written.
And if the Amsoil recommendation was followed then Amsoil covers you.
B I think there will be.
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