Liqui Moly Oil Sludge Remover

The paranoia about these products on BITOG is level 11. It's fine. You follow the directions (duh)...this is an idle flush. Your car won't be damaged.
Not yet available for sale but I think this is what the OP was thinking of. Pour and drive. Figured you'd be interested.

 
Not yet available for sale but I think this is what the OP was thinking of. Pour and drive. Figured you'd be interested.

Yeah, the OP question was how to use it, and right there on the website, it says,

“Use: The Oil Sludge Flush added to the motor oil approx. 100 km to 300 km before the planned oil change. The motor oil change is carried out after the distance traveled (this does not have to be covered in one go).”

Of course, the OP asked dozens of questions about his oil burning Volvo without actually taking any action.
 
Ok - LM doesn't show this product on their U.S. site, all the writing is in German which is uncharacteristic for U.S. products they sell. Not sure here but maybe this is something Amazon only etc. can do? Either way, it's here but it's never been a U.S. product, only in Euro.
 
So there it is!
Maybe you could get some to clean up what the HPL leaves behind......J/K :unsure: o_O :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:

I had great luck with the original Auto RX. I must have been the only one....
I did the Auto-RX on my old Corolla with like 150k at the time iirc. It reduced the oil burning from like 1qt/1k to .5qt/1k by the end of the cleaning cycles. That car also countless GUNK brand Motor Flushes and an untold number of qts of mostly QS conventional iirc at 3k changes (and ZMAX/Slick 50 and others). I think I switched to a blend or full syn towards the end after the Auto-RX. It was probably one of the most talked about on here when I lurked for a long time before joining.

That was before (or at least I knew of) the BG EPR's, LM's and others. No qualms using EPR, LM, GUNK and others as the actual add right before a change. All my cars got BG EPR last year maybe 2 years ago.

Current learnings put me to the HPL EC30, and three of my cars are currently running it. The Pilot would get EC30 also but I want to do oil analysis again since I've been using for a lot more daily mileage. I didn't want any additives (like LM BioTech) in it to see what it shows. All of mine will get some HPL PCMO but probably only 1 qt after the EC30's are used up. I have enough of my oil stash that I can probably go 2 years before buying more. The HPL PCMO will be the add something better at getting and keeping clean on top of PP, PPE-L or M1. I'll probably get the 5W-30 version as 3/5 call for 5W-20/30 and have higher mileage. The other 2 call for 0W-20 but will some M1 0W-40 (Accord) and PP Euro L 5-30 in the pilot at next change after EC30 is used up.

Paralysis by Analysis is a definite thing especially after too much time at BITOG. Grab the dart board, cover with a BITOG BINGO paper and toss 1 dart then do that. You probably will not go wrong with any of the choices. If you don't like results, remove that one from next dart toss, lather, rinse, repeat.
 
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Maybe you could get some to clean up what the HPL leaves behind......J/K :unsure: o_O :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO: :ROFLMAO:


I did the Auto-RX on my old Corolla with like 150k at the time iirc. It reduced the oil burning from like 1qt/1k to .5qt/1k by the end of the cleaning cycles. That car also countless GUNK brand Motor Flushes and an untold number of qts of mostly QS conventional iirc at 3k changes (and ZMAX/Slick 50 and others). I think I switched to a blend or full syn towards the end after the Auto-RX. It was probably one of the most talked about on here when I lurked for a long time before joining.

That was before (or at least I knew of) the BG EPR's, LM's and others. No qualms using EPR, LM, GUNK and others as the actual add right before a change. All my cars got BG EPR last year maybe 2 years ago.

Current learnings put me to the HPL EC30, and three of my cars are currently running it. The Pilot would get EC30 also but I want to do oil analysis again since I've been using for a lot more daily mileage. I didn't want any additives (like LM BioTech) in it to see what it shows. All of mine will get some HPL PCMO but probably only 1 qt after the EC30's are used up. I have enough of my oil stash that I can probably go 2 years before buying more. The HPL PCMO will be the add something better at getting and keeping clean on top of PP, PPE-L or M1. I'll probably get the 5W-30 version as 3/5 call for 5W-20/30 and have higher mileage. The other 2 call for 0W-20 but will some M1 0W-40 (Accord) and PP Euro L 5-30 in the pilot at next change after EC30 is used up.

Paralysis by Analysis is a definite thing especially after too much time at BITOG. Grab the dart board, cover with a BITOG BINGO paper and toss 1 dart then do that. You probably will not go wrong with any of the choices. If you don't like results, remove that one from next dart toss, lather, rinse, repeat.
it was on an old used car I bought with unknow history. Apparently changing the oil was not part of the history. But a double dose of the AutoRX and about 7500 miles it went from a quart every 500 miles to quart every 3k miles. Then I junked it for other reasons.....
 
Why is the there no talk or concern of the additive clash in the EC30 (being a fully formulated HDEO) and the oil it is added to?
 
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