Lets talk old school. 20w 50

[azsynthetic]

Originally Posted By: steve20
from the original post

Loc: NC I grew up in a big V8 family My dad would use nothing but Castrol oil 20w 50 in these engines. These was Chevy 400SB built up and Ford 390's and Ford 455 and several more.


A Chevy 383 does not mean Chevy made a 383.

 

[CATERHAM]

I think Doug Hillary summed it up well.

Addyguy, why would you even want to consider testing the cold-cranking properties of an oil with the serious risk of engine damage from cavitation unless you had no choice.
I believe 20W-50 dino is obsolete because a GP III 5W-50 (to mention just example) is commonly available and not much more expensive. It's superior cold-cranking ability and cleanliness leaves little doubt in my mind just how 'yesteryear' 20W-50 dino is.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I think Doug Hillary summed it up well.

Addyguy, why would you even want to consider testing the cold-cranking properties of an oil with the serious risk of engine damage from cavitation unless you had no choice.
I believe 20W-50 dino is obsolete because a GP III 5W-50 (to mention just example) is commonly available and not much more expensive. It's superior cold-cranking ability and cleanliness leaves little doubt in my mind just how 'yesteryear' 20W-50 dino is.


I have to ask the question why you have 20w-50 listed in your sig.

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I use it in my Lotus Europa because it consumes so much oil, otherwise I would a use a superior oil like a Red Line 40wt.



BuickGN, just for you.

 

[BuickGN]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I use it in my Lotus Europa because it consumes so much oil, otherwise I would a use a superior oil like a Red Line 40wt.



BuickGN, just for you.


That's why I love you.

 

[addyguy]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
I think Doug Hillary summed it up well.

Addyguy, why would you even want to consider testing the cold-cranking properties of an oil with the serious risk of engine damage from cavitation unless you had no choice.
I believe 20W-50 dino is obsolete because a GP III 5W-50 (to mention just example) is commonly available and not much more expensive. It's superior cold-cranking ability and cleanliness leaves little doubt in my mind just how 'yesteryear' 20W-50 dino is.


I do agree with you - if for some reason, I wanted to 'try' a 50-weight oil in my engine, a 5W-50 synthetic would be my first choice, as it is sort of the 'best of both worlds'.

My argument was purely theoretical. Technically, a 20W-50 will cold-crank down to -15C no harder than a 10W-30 at -25C....so it 'could do'....

 

[CErnst]

Back when my little 1.8L in my '93 Eclipse started to consume oil, I put 20-50 in it during the fall. I forgot to change it before winter here in Missouri. The starters are kinda small and could barely turn it over. Pretty comical. 10w-40 worked well in winters!

 

[CATERHAM]

Originally Posted By: CErnst
Back when my little 1.8L in my '93 Eclipse started to consume oil, I put 20-50 in it during the fall. I forgot to change it before winter here in Missouri. The starters are kinda small and could barely turn it over. Pretty comical. 10w-40 worked well in winters!


I think that's why mfr's have largely stopped showing the conditions under which most grades of oil can be used because owners don't remember, don't know, don't think or simply don't care about what grade of oil is in the sump.

I mentioned previously that in my '86 Porsche owners manual the conditions under which all SAE grades of oil, both mineral and synthetic, from 5W-20 to 20W-50 can be used are shown.
Now it's largely just syn 0W-40, period.

In years past I think the mfr's expected the owners to be more hands on and generally "into their cars". The owners manuals were more technically informative.

 

[nikorasu]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM

I believe 20W-50 dino is obsolete because a GP III 5W-50 (to mention just example) is commonly available and not much more expensive. It's superior cold-cranking ability and cleanliness leaves little doubt in my mind just how 'yesteryear' 20W-50 dino is.


5w50 would work great in my van, but the problem is it requires the SG spec and the ZDDP in the SM spec would kill the engine. I mix four quarts of old school 20w50 and one quart Mobil 1 EP and put that in the van and the summer time results are great. Never have had any oil pressure problems.

 

[Falcon_LS]

Originally Posted By: CATERHAM
It's not the preferred fill anywhere in the world.


I have to disagree I'm afraid. Nissan, Toyota and Hyundai/Kia all supply their own brand oils here. Their own oils are all 20W-50, and they endorse the use of 20W-50.

Honda and Mitsubishi supply 15W-40 for normal service, but recommend 20W-50 for severe service. Mazda recommends 15W-40, but calls for 20W-50 for severe service as well. Daihatsu, Isuzu and Suzuki all recommend 20W-50.