After buying our CRV with 55K i decided to use EP 5W20 for 3K to clean up some deposits. My next change went 10K on the same oil following the olm or six months... man that was tough, LOL. But I did it.
Learn to trust those OLM's
- Thread starter ARB1977
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Title is false advertising
The ones on our cars were verified by UOA. Nothing like making sure about a supposedly sure system!
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I thought you were going to show us a UOA or something to prove the OLM was accurate.
That's what I thought, too.
There was a UOA on here a while back where the user had the same engine I do in the one vehicle I have that has a OLM (2.4L 4 cyl GM engine in the new Equinox and Terrain). It went 12k miles until the OLM said it was time to change. The UOA came back that the oil had been run way too long.
In this application the OLM is not accurate. I only run synthetic, and run it to 6000-6500 miles. Usually this is around 40% left according to the OLM. It works well because I rotate the tires at the same time.
I thought you were going to show us a UOA or something to prove the OLM was accurate.
That's what I thought, too.
There was a UOA on here a while back where the user had the same engine I do in the one vehicle I have that has a OLM (2.4L 4 cyl GM engine in the new Equinox and Terrain). It went 12k miles until the OLM said it was time to change. The UOA came back that the oil had been run way too long.
In this application the OLM is not accurate. I only run synthetic, and run it to 6000-6500 miles. Usually this is around 40% left according to the OLM. It works well because I rotate the tires at the same time.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
After buying our CRV with 55K i decided to use EP 5W20 for 3K to clean up some deposits. My next change went 10K on the same oil following the olm or six months... man that was tough, LOL. But I did it.
My first car with OLM (MB called it FSS) was 2000 E430, the factory filled was changed when the FSS showed negative 200 miles, one year after I bought the car.
Actually I tried to have appointment to change the oil when FSS showed 600-700 before it went to zero, but the dealer was booked solid and I had to wait 2 weeks.
After buying our CRV with 55K i decided to use EP 5W20 for 3K to clean up some deposits. My next change went 10K on the same oil following the olm or six months... man that was tough, LOL. But I did it.
My first car with OLM (MB called it FSS) was 2000 E430, the factory filled was changed when the FSS showed negative 200 miles, one year after I bought the car.
Actually I tried to have appointment to change the oil when FSS showed 600-700 before it went to zero, but the dealer was booked solid and I had to wait 2 weeks.
My 07 Honda Civic's OLM seems pretty accurate. I've posted UOAs of me running it down to 0% oil life left on the meter and went -2,000 miles past 0% with the next fill using Amsoil's best and still had plenty of life left in the oil to go longer (UOA done @ 10K MILES)
I also ran Amsoil's cheapest oil (the OE line) down to 0% OL left and still have 1.8-2.0 TBN left with the oil looking pretty good physically.
Other Honda's aren't as lucky, from the UOAs i've seen on the V6 engines.
The only way to know for sure is to test the oil after running the Oil life down to 0% and see how much life is left. It should still have plenty of life left as a safety buffer. It shouldn't be running it down to where the oil is toast @ only 20-30% left.
I also ran Amsoil's cheapest oil (the OE line) down to 0% OL left and still have 1.8-2.0 TBN left with the oil looking pretty good physically.
Other Honda's aren't as lucky, from the UOAs i've seen on the V6 engines.
The only way to know for sure is to test the oil after running the Oil life down to 0% and see how much life is left. It should still have plenty of life left as a safety buffer. It shouldn't be running it down to where the oil is toast @ only 20-30% left.
Originally Posted By: moto94536
I have 2010 honda with OLM. I will not trust OLM because I get 9,000 miles when the oil life reach 5%.
came on. 9,000 miles OCI with the dino oil???
This is only my solution.
dino oil = 5000 OCI max.
Synthetic oil = 7,500 OCI max.
I'd follow it with any concern. Yes conventional oils can do 9000 miles in many engines and certain conditions that the OLM keeps track of.
Changing your oil at 5000 miles when the OLM is going off at 9000 miles is a waste.
take care, Bill
I have 2010 honda with OLM. I will not trust OLM because I get 9,000 miles when the oil life reach 5%.
came on. 9,000 miles OCI with the dino oil???
This is only my solution.
dino oil = 5000 OCI max.
Synthetic oil = 7,500 OCI max.
I'd follow it with any concern. Yes conventional oils can do 9000 miles in many engines and certain conditions that the OLM keeps track of.
Changing your oil at 5000 miles when the OLM is going off at 9000 miles is a waste.
take care, Bill
It would be nice if all OLM's were as nicely executed as GM's or Mercedes, but they're not.
If you don't know specifically how your OLM works you can't trust it.
If you don't know specifically how your OLM works you can't trust it.
Originally Posted By: wallyuwl
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I thought you were going to show us a UOA or something to prove the OLM was accurate.
That's what I thought, too.
There was a UOA on here a while back where the user had the same engine I do in the one vehicle I have that has a OLM (2.4L 4 cyl GM engine in the new Equinox and Terrain). It went 12k miles until the OLM said it was time to change. The UOA came back that the oil had been run way too long.
In this application the OLM is not accurate. I only run synthetic, and run it to 6000-6500 miles. Usually this is around 40% left according to the OLM. It works well because I rotate the tires at the same time.
This car had a TSB (technical service bulletin) change where they reduced the OLM interval due to wear. New V6 ones are limited to 5500 miles regardless of use, not sure about the 4 cylinder ones.
Originally Posted By: Warstud
I thought you were going to show us a UOA or something to prove the OLM was accurate.
That's what I thought, too.
There was a UOA on here a while back where the user had the same engine I do in the one vehicle I have that has a OLM (2.4L 4 cyl GM engine in the new Equinox and Terrain). It went 12k miles until the OLM said it was time to change. The UOA came back that the oil had been run way too long.
In this application the OLM is not accurate. I only run synthetic, and run it to 6000-6500 miles. Usually this is around 40% left according to the OLM. It works well because I rotate the tires at the same time.
This car had a TSB (technical service bulletin) change where they reduced the OLM interval due to wear. New V6 ones are limited to 5500 miles regardless of use, not sure about the 4 cylinder ones.
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GM increased the maximum mileage of my 1998 Corvette OLM from 10,000 miles to 15,000 miles AFTER several years due to UOAs they did on in-service cars. NOTE: 1997 was the first year of the new LS1 engine.
The GM OLMs are quite accurate and will leave you with a margin.
The GM OLMs are quite accurate and will leave you with a margin.
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I feel pretty confident. This may give me a good reason to do a uoa next go around. Do they make something that will allow you draw a sample through the dipstick tube?
I don't have any opinion as my personal experiences have been mixed.
My 05 Caddy had an OLM that was i would have to say close to perfect, follow it and the engine was spotless like it left the factory.
Company car a brand new 08 Buick Lucerne Super was horrible, following the OLM the engine began to varnish and accumulate clearly visible deposits. The company reduced the OCI by half on these cars.
08 Saturn Vue 3.5 GM same problem.
06 Honda odyssey, this was the worst. Engine actually needed to be disassembled and manually cleaned following OLM with synthetic oil.
08 Saturn Sky No problem
06 Infiniti M35X, some varnish
02 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0, perfect
02 Chevy Venture 3.4, not good or bad, not as clean as it could/should be but nothing terrible either.
2000 Pontiac GTP, perfect.
These are just a few of many, the OLM seems to be a mixed bag, some seem to work great others seem to fail miserably.
In light of these experiences i just ignore the OLM and change the oil every 5K and be done with it.
My advice to anyone wanting to follow the OLM is to look at the engine carefully at the end of the cycle, if there is any sign of varnish or build up drop the OCI by half.
My 05 Caddy had an OLM that was i would have to say close to perfect, follow it and the engine was spotless like it left the factory.
Company car a brand new 08 Buick Lucerne Super was horrible, following the OLM the engine began to varnish and accumulate clearly visible deposits. The company reduced the OCI by half on these cars.
08 Saturn Vue 3.5 GM same problem.
06 Honda odyssey, this was the worst. Engine actually needed to be disassembled and manually cleaned following OLM with synthetic oil.
08 Saturn Sky No problem
06 Infiniti M35X, some varnish
02 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0, perfect
02 Chevy Venture 3.4, not good or bad, not as clean as it could/should be but nothing terrible either.
2000 Pontiac GTP, perfect.
These are just a few of many, the OLM seems to be a mixed bag, some seem to work great others seem to fail miserably.
In light of these experiences i just ignore the OLM and change the oil every 5K and be done with it.
My advice to anyone wanting to follow the OLM is to look at the engine carefully at the end of the cycle, if there is any sign of varnish or build up drop the OCI by half.
Originally Posted By: ARB1977
I feel pretty confident. This may give me a good reason to do a uoa next go around. Do they make something that will allow you draw a sample through the dipstick tube?
Here's one such kit, there are others, search for "dipstick oil sample pump" or "dipstick oil pump":
http://www.oilmedic.com/sampling.htm
I feel pretty confident. This may give me a good reason to do a uoa next go around. Do they make something that will allow you draw a sample through the dipstick tube?
Here's one such kit, there are others, search for "dipstick oil sample pump" or "dipstick oil pump":
http://www.oilmedic.com/sampling.htm
Originally Posted By: moto94536
hi Bill, I don't care you do 15k oci.. But I still do 5k oci with dino. It is not a waste and 5k is reasonable.
I am happy you do 10k oci. save the enviroment.
I don't do 15k OCIs nor would I with my current vehicles. But if I had a vehicle that had an OLM and it told me 9k then I'd be there.
One of my current vehicles has 5000 OCIs in ANY condition. Before 2005 it was 5k for severe and 7,500 miles for normal. That is on conventional oil 5w30. So since I have both data and history showing that 7-8k OCIs are a SAFE OCI with any API-SL/SM/SN oil in my car that is what I'm doing.
Having the blanket mindset that x oil is good for x miles period is not factual.
Bill
hi Bill, I don't care you do 15k oci.. But I still do 5k oci with dino. It is not a waste and 5k is reasonable.
I am happy you do 10k oci. save the enviroment.
I don't do 15k OCIs nor would I with my current vehicles. But if I had a vehicle that had an OLM and it told me 9k then I'd be there.
One of my current vehicles has 5000 OCIs in ANY condition. Before 2005 it was 5k for severe and 7,500 miles for normal. That is on conventional oil 5w30. So since I have both data and history showing that 7-8k OCIs are a SAFE OCI with any API-SL/SM/SN oil in my car that is what I'm doing.
Having the blanket mindset that x oil is good for x miles period is not factual.
Bill
Originally Posted By: Trav
I don't have any opinion as my personal experiences have been mixed.
My 05 Caddy had an OLM that was i would have to say close to perfect, follow it and the engine was spotless like it left the factory.
Company car a brand new 08 Buick Lucerne Super was horrible, following the OLM the engine began to varnish and accumulate clearly visible deposits. The company reduced the OCI by half on these cars.
08 Saturn Vue 3.5 GM same problem.
06 Honda odyssey, this was the worst. Engine actually needed to be disassembled and manually cleaned following OLM with synthetic oil.
08 Saturn Sky No problem
06 Infiniti M35X, some varnish
02 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0, perfect
02 Chevy Venture 3.4, not good or bad, not as clean as it could/should be but nothing terrible either.
2000 Pontiac GTP, perfect.
These are just a few of many, the OLM seems to be a mixed bag, some seem to work great others seem to fail miserably.
In light of these experiences i just ignore the OLM and change the oil every 5K and be done with it.
My advice to anyone wanting to follow the OLM is to look at the engine carefully at the end of the cycle, if there is any sign of varnish or build up drop the OCI by half.
Perfect? What does that mean?
A tear down and inspection of parts vs. an identical engine in identical running conditions?
Or visually clean on a few parts? Clean like most cars are anyways?
I don't have any opinion as my personal experiences have been mixed.
My 05 Caddy had an OLM that was i would have to say close to perfect, follow it and the engine was spotless like it left the factory.
Company car a brand new 08 Buick Lucerne Super was horrible, following the OLM the engine began to varnish and accumulate clearly visible deposits. The company reduced the OCI by half on these cars.
08 Saturn Vue 3.5 GM same problem.
06 Honda odyssey, this was the worst. Engine actually needed to be disassembled and manually cleaned following OLM with synthetic oil.
08 Saturn Sky No problem
06 Infiniti M35X, some varnish
02 GMC Yukon Denali XL 6.0, perfect
02 Chevy Venture 3.4, not good or bad, not as clean as it could/should be but nothing terrible either.
2000 Pontiac GTP, perfect.
These are just a few of many, the OLM seems to be a mixed bag, some seem to work great others seem to fail miserably.
In light of these experiences i just ignore the OLM and change the oil every 5K and be done with it.
My advice to anyone wanting to follow the OLM is to look at the engine carefully at the end of the cycle, if there is any sign of varnish or build up drop the OCI by half.
Perfect? What does that mean?
A tear down and inspection of parts vs. an identical engine in identical running conditions?
Or visually clean on a few parts? Clean like most cars are anyways?
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