Raccoons do interesting things to grub rich lawns.
Lawn grub control
- Thread starter Quattro Pete
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Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
II need grub control
You need a few hungry moles.
I have a mole problem now due to the japanese beetle grubs. My dogs keep excavating everywhere the moles have been which is the real problem. Along my fence line is my biggest problem at this time because the moles are using the fence line to travel and the dogs are digging massive ruts trying to get them.
Is there a pet safe effective way to either get rid of the moles and/or grubs which is what the moles are after that would also be economical to treat 50k square feet?
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
II need grub control
You need a few hungry moles.
I have a mole problem now due to the japanese beetle grubs. My dogs keep excavating everywhere the moles have been which is the real problem. Along my fence line is my biggest problem at this time because the moles are using the fence line to travel and the dogs are digging massive ruts trying to get them.
Is there a pet safe effective way to either get rid of the moles and/or grubs which is what the moles are after that would also be economical to treat 50k square feet?
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
II need grub control
You need a few hungry moles.
I have a mole problem now due to the japanese beetle grubs. My dogs keep excavating everywhere the moles have been which is the real problem. Along my fence line is my biggest problem at this time because the moles are using the fence line to travel and the dogs are digging massive ruts trying to get them.
Is there a pet safe effective way to either get rid of the moles and/or grubs which is what the moles are after that would also be economical to treat 50k square feet?
Just found this product, Mole Scram . Never used it and just heard of it so do not know how effective or cost, but may be worth checking out.
Other advice on make your own repellent found here as follows:
___
Moles and gophers can be controlled to some degree with hot pepper and castor oil products or home mixtures of the ingredients. Injecting the materials into the ground in the problem areas is more effective than spraying the surface. Planting castor beans around the perimeter of the garden can help. Devices that rattle or vibrate can also be part of the solution.
FORMULA
The formula for the castor-oil repellent can be made by using a blender to combine 1/4 cup of unrefined castor oil (can be purchased at most pharmacies) and 2 tablespoons of a dishwashing liquid. Blend the two together, add 6 tablespoons water, and blend again. Combine the concentrated mixture with water at a rate of 2 tablespoons of solution to 1 gallon of water. Use a watering can or sprayer to liberally apply the solution to areas where moles are active. The above mixture will cover approximately 300 square feet.
The repellent will be most effective where it can be watered into the moist soil surrounding surface tunnels made by moles. Areas that receive extensive irrigation will quickly loose the repellent to leaching. For best results, spray the entire area needing protection; moles will burrow under a perimeter treatment.
The repellent may need to be reapplied before moles depart. Once moles move elsewhere, the solution usually remains effective for 30 to 60 days
___
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
II need grub control
You need a few hungry moles.
I have a mole problem now due to the japanese beetle grubs. My dogs keep excavating everywhere the moles have been which is the real problem. Along my fence line is my biggest problem at this time because the moles are using the fence line to travel and the dogs are digging massive ruts trying to get them.
Is there a pet safe effective way to either get rid of the moles and/or grubs which is what the moles are after that would also be economical to treat 50k square feet?
Just found this product, Mole Scram . Never used it and just heard of it so do not know how effective or cost, but may be worth checking out.
Other advice on make your own repellent found here as follows:
___
Moles and gophers can be controlled to some degree with hot pepper and castor oil products or home mixtures of the ingredients. Injecting the materials into the ground in the problem areas is more effective than spraying the surface. Planting castor beans around the perimeter of the garden can help. Devices that rattle or vibrate can also be part of the solution.
FORMULA
The formula for the castor-oil repellent can be made by using a blender to combine 1/4 cup of unrefined castor oil (can be purchased at most pharmacies) and 2 tablespoons of a dishwashing liquid. Blend the two together, add 6 tablespoons water, and blend again. Combine the concentrated mixture with water at a rate of 2 tablespoons of solution to 1 gallon of water. Use a watering can or sprayer to liberally apply the solution to areas where moles are active. The above mixture will cover approximately 300 square feet.
The repellent will be most effective where it can be watered into the moist soil surrounding surface tunnels made by moles. Areas that receive extensive irrigation will quickly loose the repellent to leaching. For best results, spray the entire area needing protection; moles will burrow under a perimeter treatment.
The repellent may need to be reapplied before moles depart. Once moles move elsewhere, the solution usually remains effective for 30 to 60 days
___
Change the species of grasses in your lawn so you no longer have a monoculture, and grubs will reduce to acceptable levels.
Kestas
Staff member
Ditto. In the old days, gardeners specifically specified that their grass seed contain a certain amount of clover seed. Clover fixes nitrogen into the soil. Thanks to aggressive marketing by chemical companies, now people look at clover as an undesirable constituent in their lawn.
The lawn (if you want to call it that) is a mowed down field of wild grasses, there is no one particular species to speak of but more areas of dominance. The only thing I do treat regularly is poison ivy if I find it on my property. It is wide spread on some of the surrounding property.
The japanese beatles have been getting worse the last 2 years and the moles have gotten more problematic because of it.
The japanese beatles have been getting worse the last 2 years and the moles have gotten more problematic because of it.
Ducks.
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
Originally Posted By: nthach
Ducks.
Dogs.
Ducks.
Dogs.
Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: nthach
Ducks.
Dogs.
Well, the 2 would be funny to watch - seeing a Labrador or a Golden Retriever give chase to a duck(unless its a mallard)...
Originally Posted By: nthach
Ducks.
Dogs.
Well, the 2 would be funny to watch - seeing a Labrador or a Golden Retriever give chase to a duck(unless its a mallard)...
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Originally Posted By: TaterandNoodles
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
II need grub control
You need a few hungry moles.
I have a mole problem now due to the japanese beetle grubs.
Get a few birds of preys to wipe out the moles. Or snakes might work.
Originally Posted By: moribundman
Originally Posted By: Quattro Pete
II need grub control
You need a few hungry moles.
I have a mole problem now due to the japanese beetle grubs.
Get a few birds of preys to wipe out the moles. Or snakes might work.
Ducks, yes. Or chickens. One chicken can clean up all the bugs in a 1/2 acre area.
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And then you can have succulent, grub-fed, roasted chicken!
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
A systemic for example Merit will be absorb in the tissue of the plant. That is the reason Merit will last much longer than a contact insecticide.
Their is no plant tissue for Merit to be absorbed with a flea powder. It's used as contact insecticide and I would think at a much lower concentration rate.
I'm not a fan of spraying a systemic insecticide such as Merit that would last a month and my dog needs to ingest grass for digestive reason. The toxicity is low for humans. Human and dogs have different levels.
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
A systemic for example Merit will be absorb in the tissue of the plant. That is the reason Merit will last much longer than a contact insecticide.
Their is no plant tissue for Merit to be absorbed with a flea powder. It's used as contact insecticide and I would think at a much lower concentration rate.
I'm not a fan of spraying a systemic insecticide such as Merit that would last a month and my dog needs to ingest grass for digestive reason. The toxicity is low for humans. Human and dogs have different levels.
Originally Posted By: moribundman
And then you can have succulent, grub-fed, roasted chicken!
I'd love to have chickens since they would eat the ticks I've found in the yard. Unfortunately I don't think they would last long with the rotties. We found one of them snacking on a rabbit once. If it will run its going to be dog chow.
And then you can have succulent, grub-fed, roasted chicken!
I'd love to have chickens since they would eat the ticks I've found in the yard. Unfortunately I don't think they would last long with the rotties. We found one of them snacking on a rabbit once. If it will run its going to be dog chow.
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
Imidacloprid
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
Imidacloprid
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
A systemic for example Merit will be absorb in the tissue of the plant. That is the reason Merit will last much longer than a contact insecticide.
Their is no plant tissue for Merit to be absorbed with a flea powder. It's used as contact insecticide and I would think at a much lower concentration rate.
I'm not a fan of spraying a systemic insecticide such as Merit that would last a month and my dog needs to ingest grass for digestive reason. The toxicity is low for humans. Human and dogs have different levels.
Advantage and its Multi counterparts as well as K9 Advantix contain are spot-ons which do get absorbed into a cat or dog's system. All of them contain 8-9.1% imidacloprid, while K9 Advantix adds in 44% permethrin, and Advantage Multi adds in moxidectin for internal parasite control.
Advantage is used by vets for cats - since cats can't detoxify pesticides such as permethrin. There's a reason why permethrin-containing products must NEVER be used on a cat. Dogs can handle it but it should be avoided.
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
A systemic for example Merit will be absorb in the tissue of the plant. That is the reason Merit will last much longer than a contact insecticide.
Their is no plant tissue for Merit to be absorbed with a flea powder. It's used as contact insecticide and I would think at a much lower concentration rate.
I'm not a fan of spraying a systemic insecticide such as Merit that would last a month and my dog needs to ingest grass for digestive reason. The toxicity is low for humans. Human and dogs have different levels.
Advantage and its Multi counterparts as well as K9 Advantix contain are spot-ons which do get absorbed into a cat or dog's system. All of them contain 8-9.1% imidacloprid, while K9 Advantix adds in 44% permethrin, and Advantage Multi adds in moxidectin for internal parasite control.
Advantage is used by vets for cats - since cats can't detoxify pesticides such as permethrin. There's a reason why permethrin-containing products must NEVER be used on a cat. Dogs can handle it but it should be avoided.
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
A systemic for example Merit will be absorb in the tissue of the plant. That is the reason Merit will last much longer than a contact insecticide.
Their is no plant tissue for Merit to be absorbed with a flea powder. It's used as contact insecticide and I would think at a much lower concentration rate.
I'm not a fan of spraying a systemic insecticide such as Merit that would last a month and my dog needs to ingest grass for digestive reason. The toxicity is low for humans. Human and dogs have different levels.
Advantage and its Multi counterparts as well as K9 Advantix contain are spot-ons which do get absorbed into a cat or dog's system. All of them contain 8-9.1% imidacloprid, while K9 Advantix adds in 44% permethrin, and Advantage Multi adds in moxidectin for internal parasite control.
Advantage is used by vets for cats - since cats can't detoxify pesticides such as permethrin. There's a reason why permethrin-containing products must NEVER be used on a cat. Dogs can handle it but it should be avoided.
Not a fan of any chemical absorbed in any type of animal when neem oil could be used. I don't use high science when common sense tells me neem oil is safe. Neem oil will do the same ... I care for the common sense of my dog.
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Originally Posted By: nthach
Originally Posted By: Mamala Bay
Never use merit on veggie or anything you eat. It's a systemic not a contact insecticide that wears down from water and sunlight. If you have dog that eats grass for their digestive needs, it might not kill it but I don't chance it.
And the funny part about Merit is that the active ingredient is also used in Advantage/Advantage Multi and K9 Advantix for fleas.
A systemic for example Merit will be absorb in the tissue of the plant. That is the reason Merit will last much longer than a contact insecticide.
Their is no plant tissue for Merit to be absorbed with a flea powder. It's used as contact insecticide and I would think at a much lower concentration rate.
I'm not a fan of spraying a systemic insecticide such as Merit that would last a month and my dog needs to ingest grass for digestive reason. The toxicity is low for humans. Human and dogs have different levels.
Advantage and its Multi counterparts as well as K9 Advantix contain are spot-ons which do get absorbed into a cat or dog's system. All of them contain 8-9.1% imidacloprid, while K9 Advantix adds in 44% permethrin, and Advantage Multi adds in moxidectin for internal parasite control.
Advantage is used by vets for cats - since cats can't detoxify pesticides such as permethrin. There's a reason why permethrin-containing products must NEVER be used on a cat. Dogs can handle it but it should be avoided.
Not a fan of any chemical absorbed in any type of animal when neem oil could be used. I don't use high science when common sense tells me neem oil is safe. Neem oil will do the same ... I care for the common sense of my dog.
Kestas
Staff member
I often see a flock of starlings working my lawn, and elsewhere. They do the job. I try to not disturb them when they're around and wait until they're finished to go outside.
Originally Posted By: Kestas
I often see a flock of starlings working my lawn, and elsewhere. They do the job. I try to not disturb them when they're around and wait until they're finished to go outside.
I have several large ant colonies in my yard that I keep around for the same reason. They're death on grubs or any other type of creepy crawly they happen to find.
I often see a flock of starlings working my lawn, and elsewhere. They do the job. I try to not disturb them when they're around and wait until they're finished to go outside.
I have several large ant colonies in my yard that I keep around for the same reason. They're death on grubs or any other type of creepy crawly they happen to find.
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