Latest salvage vehicle purchase from Auction (IAAI not Copart)

[GON]

Seems they were possibly able to get it to power up to pop it into neutral to get it on the trailer - either that or they dragged it up there with the rear wheels dragging.

Like others above said I think the leaving it stored for 2 months with the water still sloshing around in the floor boards is a big concern. Could you fly out for a few days to do some initial remediation? I know its still winter now but mid-70's in SC/NC won't be out of the question come the next month or so.

Good luck with this though - beautiful car. I was not a huge fan of this body style when it first came out but it grew on me over the years, my favorite S is still the W220.

Thanks Pezzy,

The auction house loaded the S550 on the trailer with a forklift- that is how they load every vehicle that is sold. The Transporter was able to get the car in neutral, he actually sent me a video of him moving it back and forth on his trailer.

There is a ton to love about the W220s. I have two in my garage at this moment. The W220 is considerable lighter than the W221, and also has a smaller footprint. Makes for better fuel mileage and easier to fit in a garage. The issues with the W220 is technology, simply hard to have bluetooth, navigation, etc. It can be done but not fun. The other is they are getting old. My 2005 S500 with AMG appearance package is awesome, but at 210k miles it is getting tired. The seats are not firm, just overall tired.

I would stay with W220s until I died if the technology support was better, and I could have seats that were firm. But that is simply not so feasible.

 

[GON]

How much less than $6,000 is a new engine for an S500 including battery, radiator and all that other major, burnt up stuff that never comes with a new long block? Then at the end of the day it’s still just a fire casualty with a new motor put in it.

The S500 engines are tanks. They can run overheated, without oil for some time, and still be ok. They can't sell them on the used market as they don't fail- there is a not a need. One could pickup a S500 engine for a few hundred dollars all day long.

The issue with a engine fire on a S500 is not the engine. It is everything around the engine. The headlights, of which there is only one aftermarket supplier (of quality), run almost $2800 for a pair from MB. The wire harness, I could go on and on. Even the hose that transports windshield wiper fluid from the fluid storage dive to the sprayers has two heating wires in it, so what is typically a $5 length of hose on most cars is a $200 hose on a MB. And the hose must be new, as the way it connects to the washer fluid storage tank, used hoses will leak the fluid out in a few hours.

The issue, as I mentioned in a prior post, is the S500, a great car, but getting long in the tooth. I have a 2002 F350 that I would not trade up for, but for my daily driver, I want better seats and better technology. Something a S500 can't deliver, maybe a S550 can... we shall see.

 

[SatinSilver]

I would send a pm to rooflessvw and see about having him drying it out, cleaning and protection. His work looks excellent and is reasonable. After being exposed to the elements for so long it prob needs a good cleaning inside and out. Plus he has some good mechanical/technical skills on German cars. I remember him fixing up a VW Phaeton and a high mile 911 to pristine condition. You can go back and see with some of the threads he’s started on here.

 

[GON]

A participant in this thread inquired about the title differences between a salvage certificate and a salvage title. I will show how to identify at auction what the vehicle will come with. Note most states will do a title, tags, etc with a salvage title with no difference in procedure and requirements as a clean title. I know of one state that does not, Pennsylvania. A out of state salvage title being transferred to a Pennsylvania title will require a vehicle inspection. I believe this is not common for most states, but at least Pennsylvania requires it.

If a car comes with a salvage certificate instead of a salvage title, most states DMVs will require a post repair inspection to get issued a salvage title and associated registration.

The key here- if buying a auction vehicle that is salvage, make sure you know what the vehicle comes with (salvage certificate or salvage title), and what your state's DMV requires to transfer title and register. I have purchased vehicles with both salvage certificate and salvage title, and prefer the salvage title as in my state salvage title is processed the same as a clean title, where I was required to have a inspection with the salvage certificate vehicles.

https://www.iaai.com/vehicledetails/39035996?tenant=US&RowNumber=6
This Georgia titled vehicle comes with a SALVAGE TITLE and should be ready to title and register as the vehicle sits in most states.
Look at this line item for the detail: Title/Sale Doc:SALVAGE (Georgia)

https://www.iaai.com/vehicledetails/39058340?tenant=US&RowNumber=2
This California titled vehicle comes with a SALVAGE CERTIFICATE and in most states will require an inspection before the DMV will issue a salvage title and allow registration.
Look at this line item for the detail: Title/Sale Doc:SALVAGE CERTIFICATE (California)

 

[Jarlaxle]

The dash not lighting up is a real bad sign.... but maybe I will get lucky and maybe not. I know it does not start nor power up... but is that because it is fried, or the insurance guy told the MB service writer to stop after the first hour of diagnoses. And the service tech left things unconnected.

Time will tell.. But I have realistic expectations which are not high.

Might have disconnected the battery.

 

[Jarlaxle]

Depends how/ if it is titled. I did not check if it has as salvage certificate or a certificate of title. If it has a salvage title it can be plated, salvage certificate no.

And the funniest thing, two states allow for vehicles that are titled "to never be rebuilt" do allow them to be titled for driving. Washington state is one, I forgot the other. Have to go through a deep inspection process... but can be done.

If it's old enough, that is just out anywhere with some work.

 

[Jarlaxle]

Potato potato. A salvage title is a regular title, just branded SALVAGE somewhere on it. A salvage certificate is an ownership document same as a title but may be a different color and have other details of the car listed. Good luck if you can get a tag with either one of those documents before having passed a salvage inspection. One reason it was given a salvage title or certificate is because the state deemed it unroadworthy. No way are they going to let you drive it on public roads without an inspection.

My wife managed. Put down that broad brush.

 

[Jarlaxle]

4 weeks minimum if the carpet has foam padding underneath. And I can only imagine the hours of fun you will have removing the seats with no power to them.

If you know someone at a good body shop...I can get it 100% bone dry in one night.

 

[Jarlaxle]

Maybe you know of a state that will give you permanent tags on salvage car before it's rebuilt?

Montana,if it's old eough.

 

[GON]

Should be able to get the first look next week at the Mercedes, I am working in Columbia SC next week. I am being transferred to Columbia in a few months. The transporter who picked the vehicle up from the auction house on a fluke said he could deliver the car, using my trailer, to the lot I am storing my open auto trailer.

The car arrived Columbia yesterday. Monday evening, if all goes well, I should have my first look. Expectations are super low as the dash shows no sign of life. Vast majority of Mercedes flood vehicles still have some lights on the dash. With the dash being stone cold dead..... not expecting much. Will bring a jump pack and see what I can see.

Sent the title to my DMV (in Alaska). Usually takes Alaska DMV 60-90 days to process title work received by USPS, so hopefully no issues.

 

[DallasTexas]

After Houston floods Dallas was flooded with cars that were submarines in it's previous life. I don't know how they get away with it.

 

[GON]

After Houston floods Dallas was flooded with cars that were submarines in it's previous life. I don't know how they get away with it.

My daily driver is a Houston Hurricane Harvey vehicle. Bought with 140k miles, currently has 205k miles. It is a 2005 Mercedes S500. Was very easy to get operational.

Texas flood vehicles have different certificates for salvage vehicles at auction. Some are listed as restorable, some are listed as ineligible for restoration, It is supposed to be based on "how flooded". Of course, it often comes down to the competency of the purpose making the decision on what type of salvage certificate.

 

[Dr_Dr3i]

If the battery turns out to not be the issue, then it may likely be the ECU(s) getting fried. If you have a spare from another w220, I'd take it with you.

 

[GON]

Made it to the car yesterday.

Did not like what I found.... first thing, headlamps were badly weathered. MB S-class with badly weathered headlamps equates to non garage kept and owner that did not care enough to take care of.... very bad thing. Next, found a container of PEAK European Vehicle coolant in the trunk, 2/3 empty. This is my biggest concern. Why is this MB using coolant..... very bad thing. Also, has high performance Chinese made tires... MB owners buy Michelins, Continentals, and Bridgestone....... another sign of a owner with shallow pockets for maintenance.

As other pointed out and were so correct, this MB needed to be dried out. The interior was moldee and smelly. Had visual mold in the rear seating area.

Put a jump pack on it, and the dash lit up. A good thing. dozen plus errors, but it did light up. Tried to start but would not turn over. Could not get the electric parking brake to engage. Started to observe the water damage, appears to be in the rear of car, and also the sunroof interior cover is moldy. The car is on a car trailer, so I have limits on what I can do and pull out. I am 2100 miles from home, so I have to buy the tools I need.

Was able to open all the windows, move the seats, and open the sunroof. NO rain forecasted in Columbia, so I let the car air out a bit overnight. Can't get the radio to turn on, or any response from the Comand system or the joystick.

Pick up some torx and e sockets, and a metric 3/8 socket set. Start tearing apart the rear and am getting moisture and wetness all the way to the top of the rear seat, not good. I remove the rear seats and get to the Rear SAM. Take it partially apart, and and soak it in electronics cleaner. Put it back together. Try to start the car, nothing again. But I am now able to get the Comand system to somewhat work. Can't get the radio to work, but now able to eject the six cds in the system, which I was not able to do before cleaning the rear SAM. All the CDs were homemade.... another not good sign.

Brought the battery to my hotel room, and am trying to charge it using a just purchased Dewalt charger from Home Depot. Right now it can;t charge it, but it is trying to recondition the battery. Hoping a fully charged battery may provide different results.

Purchased a replacement rear SAM on Ebay for $70. Also, the communication ECU voice control computer seemed very wet, so I purchased one of this on Ebay for $55. It seemed that bluetooth was working and I may have been able to add my phone, but did not try.

Tomorrow, if battery charges, I will try to see if that can help. Next I will continue to find ways to dry out the car. I leave town early Friday morning, so I will not be able to install the replacement rear SAM on this trip.

On a good note, the body looks damage free and rust free. The interior rear seat and related items are common colors and may not be to bad to purchase. No idea if this will make it back on the road at this time. I am most concerned about the jug of coolant in the trunk. Starting to wonder if engine issue caused a flood car (insurance fraud). No sign of water in the front of car/ dash/ engine area.

 

[RhondaHonda]

You relayed my thoughts exactly there at the end. A flood may have been the best thing for the prior owner if this car was a non-runner or had some major mechanical issue (engine, trans, etc) that was going to cost thousands to repair. Good luck with this one and keep us posted!

 

[Egg_Head]

Good news is previous owner used the correct coolant.

 

[Dr_Dr3i]

Before trying to start it again, I'd consider removing the spark plugs and taking a peek inside the cylinders. If there's a chance it ingested water, I wouldn't want to risk hydrolocking the engine or bending a rod. I'd also flush and refill the oil.

If all checks out OK, you should verify that you've got fuel flow from the pump and spark at the plug ends.

You've definitely got a project on your hands, but you seem to enjoy them so good luck!

 

[GON]

Removed the battery last night. Tried to charge it, would not hold a charge. It was also a leaded battery and this vehicle requires a AGM.

Purchased a AGM battery, installed it, and tried to start. No luck. I did discover when I first connected the battery and turned the key, the car would show in Park, but disappear to no gear identified in the display. When In opened the driver door, the dash would read "car not in park". Car has to be in park to start, so getting somewhere. I have a code reader by Icarsoft, it is by no means a substitute for the IBM XENTRY SDS diagnostic system, but it can be very helpful.

Ran the diagnostics, and there were a lot of errors. Was able to clear almost all of them, which is a good sign. To include the rear SAM errors.
Was unable to clear the ISM - Intelligent servo module errors. I am hopeful it is a electrical connectivity issue, and not the ISM itself. It was getting dark, but did some searched on my smartphone. One youtube video had a ISM problem corrected with a 100 AMP fuse replacement, It was a M series MB. This MB does not appear to have that fuse, but gave me a place to start searching.

Opened the under the hood fusebox connected to the front SAM. Requires T25 tool to open. Removed the cover and not good news. Lots of trapped moisture. Sprayed electronic cleaner in hopes to displace some of the moisture. Also checked a dozen or so fuses at random. Reconnected the battery, but car still showed not in any gear, to include not in park.

To dark to continue. Came back to my hotel and identified four fuses that provide power to the transmission. I will check those tomorrow. I fly out early Friday morning, so I will spend one hour on the fuses, and then spend the rest of the time trying to find methods to dry the interior.

 

[Wolf359]

I believe you also have an aux battery under the dash. That is probably also dead. The aux battery is to move it out of park when the main battery is dead. You can pick up an aftermarket one on Amazon for much less than the MB one.

 

[GON]

I believe you also have an aux battery under the dash. That is probably also dead. The aux battery is to move it out of park when the main battery is dead. You can pick up an aftermarket one on Amazon for much less than the MB one.

Thanks, I will replace that battery- although I believe as long as the primary battery is working, the aux battery will show a low voltage message on the dash, which I am not seeing. I will replace anyways- thanks for the suggestion.