Latest salvage vehicle purchase from Auction (IAAI not Copart)
- Thread starter GON
- Start date
Well-I prefer Mayo over Miracle Whip.
I wonder if this has been triggered to not allow the car to start??Worked on the vehicle a few evenings this week.
Along with the home-made CDs, found even a bigger concern. Under the dash doing some checks/ inspections, came across this:
TRAX GPS Vehicle Tracking System | PassTime GPS trax 6v
I did not know what this was. It is a vehicle tracking system for finance companies to locate your vehicle for repossession, or disable its ability to start. It is used by a lot of buy here, pay here lots.
A new world of stuff I had no idea about. Finance company installs a tracking system for easy repossession ? WOW.
Another sign that suggest the prior owner may not of been able to afford proper maintenance of a Mercedes.
Have to figure out how to remove this module. Sucks this was installed- installation required splicing wires.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
No, but your question was logical.
The car would not start because the front SAM (Signal Acquisition Module) was not talking to the transmission, to know the car was in park. As a safety feature, this car won't start unless it can verify the car is in fact in park. After replacing the front SAM, the car does start. I posted about this later in the thread. Good question.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Was able to spend 90 minutes with the S550 before dark, heading back to the airport this morning for Salt Lake City.
Decided against trying to remove the old pins in the internal fuse boxes, and instead go with quick disconnect crimps. I have done quite a bit of auto electrical since the early 1980s, this is the first time I ever used a crush crimp. I am a solder and heat shrink kind of guy. I bought decent tools for this, Klien. I am disappointed in the crimp connectors I purchased, Chinese stuff. If I could do it over again I would of searched for a name brand like 3M. It all appeared to work well.
Had some theft at the car. My Craftsman portable tool boxes, some wrenches, and my iCarsoft tool was stolen. The facility is secured. None of this a huge loss, but I could of used the iCarsoft yesterday as it is handy. They did not take my MB diagnostic computer. That would of been a bigger loss. The battery on the MB CPU is dead, so I was unable to use it with a DC to AC invertor.
Getting the interior fuse boxes going has reduced many non functioning things. I know had radio, navigation, etc. What is not working is the AC, and I still can't get the car in gear. I need the MB computer to assist in seeing why I can't get her in gear. Could be as simple as a refresh of the Intelligent Servo Module, or a ISM itself is bad from water damage. I can't easily inspect the ISM as the car is on a trailer and hard to jack it up.
The car's air shocks are dropping over time- likely a few days. When I start her, the shocks fill up and hold tight. I suspect the incandescent in the air pump is wet. Replacing the incandescent and rebuilding the pump are very easy. It could also be the air control valve, which is also a easy replacement.
I picked up two replacement front seats locally. Had no place to store them, so now the car has to front seats in the front and two front seats in the back (I had removed the rear seats for drying). I am having SRS/ seat airbag errors, but no big deal- the seats are not connected. I have to scrub the carpet before reinstalling, so no reason to connect the seats.
Priority now is to get the car into gear. Need to do that to get her off the trailer to make working on her easier. I usually only have a hour or two to work on her as a pass through Columbia, SC. I am being transferred to Columbia in July. Could not find a home to rent with a decent garage or driveway. We are renting a home with a three car garage, but the garage is three car in name only, super tiny. And it has no driveway, opens direct to the alley. Not happy but have to work with what we can. Housing shortages in the south and west have made finding a place to live a challenge, so had to take what we could get. I wanted to wait for a home with a decent lot, Wife wanted to lock this one in- she won as always when it comes to the home.
Decided against trying to remove the old pins in the internal fuse boxes, and instead go with quick disconnect crimps. I have done quite a bit of auto electrical since the early 1980s, this is the first time I ever used a crush crimp. I am a solder and heat shrink kind of guy. I bought decent tools for this, Klien. I am disappointed in the crimp connectors I purchased, Chinese stuff. If I could do it over again I would of searched for a name brand like 3M. It all appeared to work well.
Had some theft at the car. My Craftsman portable tool boxes, some wrenches, and my iCarsoft tool was stolen. The facility is secured. None of this a huge loss, but I could of used the iCarsoft yesterday as it is handy. They did not take my MB diagnostic computer. That would of been a bigger loss. The battery on the MB CPU is dead, so I was unable to use it with a DC to AC invertor.
Getting the interior fuse boxes going has reduced many non functioning things. I know had radio, navigation, etc. What is not working is the AC, and I still can't get the car in gear. I need the MB computer to assist in seeing why I can't get her in gear. Could be as simple as a refresh of the Intelligent Servo Module, or a ISM itself is bad from water damage. I can't easily inspect the ISM as the car is on a trailer and hard to jack it up.
The car's air shocks are dropping over time- likely a few days. When I start her, the shocks fill up and hold tight. I suspect the incandescent in the air pump is wet. Replacing the incandescent and rebuilding the pump are very easy. It could also be the air control valve, which is also a easy replacement.
I picked up two replacement front seats locally. Had no place to store them, so now the car has to front seats in the front and two front seats in the back (I had removed the rear seats for drying). I am having SRS/ seat airbag errors, but no big deal- the seats are not connected. I have to scrub the carpet before reinstalling, so no reason to connect the seats.
Priority now is to get the car into gear. Need to do that to get her off the trailer to make working on her easier. I usually only have a hour or two to work on her as a pass through Columbia, SC. I am being transferred to Columbia in July. Could not find a home to rent with a decent garage or driveway. We are renting a home with a three car garage, but the garage is three car in name only, super tiny. And it has no driveway, opens direct to the alley. Not happy but have to work with what we can. Housing shortages in the south and west have made finding a place to live a challenge, so had to take what we could get. I wanted to wait for a home with a decent lot, Wife wanted to lock this one in- she won as always when it comes to the home.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Doing some additional research last night and while I am on the plane, looking at these additional actions.
Replace auxiliary battery (I ordered last night). I have not read that the auxiliary battery causes issues if the car's engine is running.
Because this is a flood vehicle, I needed to replace the front and rear SAMS, and numerous other modules. One module I did not replace but might of helped is the Mercedes Transmission Control Module, located under the front passenger side footwell, MB part number A0005459816 (picture below).
Also looking at performing these procedures-
w221 transmission reset//; Turn ignition to on position 3 right before starting the engine then press foot on the gas until you hear the click it’s a button at the bottom of the gas pedal that allows the car to down shift once you hear the click hold it for 15 seconds the while foot is on the gas turn key all the way to the off position and let the gas go. And wait about 5 minutes. Do not have radio on or air on while doing the reset and do not open door just wait for the allotted time. Start car and drive for about 15 minutes it normally takes about fourty shifts to go back to normal but car should be shifting fine before then.
Reset ISM in Xentry/ DAS (MB's laptop based diagnostic system).
Replace auxiliary battery (I ordered last night). I have not read that the auxiliary battery causes issues if the car's engine is running.
Because this is a flood vehicle, I needed to replace the front and rear SAMS, and numerous other modules. One module I did not replace but might of helped is the Mercedes Transmission Control Module, located under the front passenger side footwell, MB part number A0005459816 (picture below).
Also looking at performing these procedures-
w221 transmission reset//; Turn ignition to on position 3 right before starting the engine then press foot on the gas until you hear the click it’s a button at the bottom of the gas pedal that allows the car to down shift once you hear the click hold it for 15 seconds the while foot is on the gas turn key all the way to the off position and let the gas go. And wait about 5 minutes. Do not have radio on or air on while doing the reset and do not open door just wait for the allotted time. Start car and drive for about 15 minutes it normally takes about fourty shifts to go back to normal but car should be shifting fine before then.
Reset ISM in Xentry/ DAS (MB's laptop based diagnostic system).
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GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Back in South Carolina and went to the storage lot to install the transmission control module.
Car is now dead, no indications whatsoever on dash. Battery voltage looks good under load. Not sure what it is, but there is a auxiliary battery located under the dash. Pulled it and it shows zero voltage (evening of 3JUL2021). Luckily, my battery chargers are in a storage locker nearby, not packed in the trailers holding our household goods.
Went back to the hotel room with computer controlled Centex battery charger, trickle charger, and battery jump unit in hand. Tried to charge the battery using the Centex, it said battery was bad and would not charge. Same result with the trickle charger. I can't get this battery on the 4th of July, so time to try something new.
Hook the dead battery to the battery jump pack for about 30 minutes. Battery now showed some voltage. Battery continued to fail on the Centex. Hooked battery up to the trickle charger, would charge for about one minute and then report fully charged, which I didn't believe. Put battery on Centex charger, it would try to charge before saying battery bad.
After about ten rotations between trickle charger and Centex- the Centex began to charge the battery. After about 45 minutes, the Centex went from charge mode to recondition mode. Have no idea how long this may take or what I will have when finished. Battery temperature is warm, but not hot nor increasing in temperature.
I will replace this battery with a new one- but trying to get something usable today as I have the day off and wife is with the grandkids in Colorado- good day to work on the car.
For the transmission control module, could not find the old one. I sense it was pulled and not replaced when the dealer was diagnosing the car after the flood. I will find out as soon as I can pull the battery off the charger and head to the car.
Car is now dead, no indications whatsoever on dash. Battery voltage looks good under load. Not sure what it is, but there is a auxiliary battery located under the dash. Pulled it and it shows zero voltage (evening of 3JUL2021). Luckily, my battery chargers are in a storage locker nearby, not packed in the trailers holding our household goods.
Went back to the hotel room with computer controlled Centex battery charger, trickle charger, and battery jump unit in hand. Tried to charge the battery using the Centex, it said battery was bad and would not charge. Same result with the trickle charger. I can't get this battery on the 4th of July, so time to try something new.
Hook the dead battery to the battery jump pack for about 30 minutes. Battery now showed some voltage. Battery continued to fail on the Centex. Hooked battery up to the trickle charger, would charge for about one minute and then report fully charged, which I didn't believe. Put battery on Centex charger, it would try to charge before saying battery bad.
After about ten rotations between trickle charger and Centex- the Centex began to charge the battery. After about 45 minutes, the Centex went from charge mode to recondition mode. Have no idea how long this may take or what I will have when finished. Battery temperature is warm, but not hot nor increasing in temperature.
I will replace this battery with a new one- but trying to get something usable today as I have the day off and wife is with the grandkids in Colorado- good day to work on the car.
For the transmission control module, could not find the old one. I sense it was pulled and not replaced when the dealer was diagnosing the car after the flood. I will find out as soon as I can pull the battery off the charger and head to the car.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
She started. No power was a bad connection main power connection to the front SAM. Glad I had a meter, found power at the rear SAM and both interior fuse boxes. Fixed the connection and all is well.
She started up, and for the first time, she will go in reverse and drive. She is still on the trailer, so no test drive. The truck is loaded to the max, and has a 22 foot enclosed trailer attached. We move into our new home later this week, so decided not to add to the mess by disconnecting the trailer, and the work involved with the weight distribution bars, etc.
She is running poorly. Replaced the MAF, but no improvement. I added seafoam marine system cleaner to the gas, three bottles of heat, and five gallons of fresh fuel. Engine still running poorly. Charging up the DELL notebook that has the MB XENTRY diagnostic software on it, while I eat a burger at Freddy's. Will hook up the XENTRY and see where it shows the engine misfire.
Feeling of where I am at right now. Sense if I took her off the trailer she could go for a long drive, even with the miss. Only issue is simply hot, sticky, and full sun on the car while working on it. Oh well....
She started up, and for the first time, she will go in reverse and drive. She is still on the trailer, so no test drive. The truck is loaded to the max, and has a 22 foot enclosed trailer attached. We move into our new home later this week, so decided not to add to the mess by disconnecting the trailer, and the work involved with the weight distribution bars, etc.
She is running poorly. Replaced the MAF, but no improvement. I added seafoam marine system cleaner to the gas, three bottles of heat, and five gallons of fresh fuel. Engine still running poorly. Charging up the DELL notebook that has the MB XENTRY diagnostic software on it, while I eat a burger at Freddy's. Will hook up the XENTRY and see where it shows the engine misfire.
Feeling of where I am at right now. Sense if I took her off the trailer she could go for a long drive, even with the miss. Only issue is simply hot, sticky, and full sun on the car while working on it. Oh well....
That is positive news! Does the AC work?
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Good question. No. I turn it on, and it quickly turns itself off. The climate control system is working, but the AC individually turns itself off.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Fixed the AC today. Walmart sells three brands of AC coolant with gauges. I always purchase the most expensive- seems the gauge and trigger assemblies seem a bit better made.....
Used this on my F350, and now on this S550. Worked on the F350, and worked in the S550. Gauge displayed near zero when first connected. After using the entire can, went to about halfway into the green. 92 degrees out and super humid when I put the Freon in, in the car was nice and cool.
GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Solved the very rough idle and misfire P300. It was the fuel pressure switch located at the top of the fuel pump. Very easy to get and replace, just pull the bottom of the backseat, pull the connector, pop a clip, and that was it.
I studied the connector and switch and found corrosion on both. I cleaned the connector, but still had a P300 and fuel pressure error on the MB diagnostics. Replaced the switch and the car idles flawlessly. Switch was in stock at local MB dealer and out the door with taxes $71. RockAuto (I am a big fan of RA) had two aftermarket fuel pressure switches. One cost $81, the other $110. OEM at the dealer was cheaper than aftermarket on RockAuto. That is rare- but sometimes dealer/ OEM is cheaper.
I studied the connector and switch and found corrosion on both. I cleaned the connector, but still had a P300 and fuel pressure error on the MB diagnostics. Replaced the switch and the car idles flawlessly. Switch was in stock at local MB dealer and out the door with taxes $71. RockAuto (I am a big fan of RA) had two aftermarket fuel pressure switches. One cost $81, the other $110. OEM at the dealer was cheaper than aftermarket on RockAuto. That is rare- but sometimes dealer/ OEM is cheaper.
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GON
$150 Site Donor 2025
Car appears to be running and ready to take off the trailer and go for a test drive.
Need to clean the carpet. It is out, I will soak carpet in clothes detergent, I think that is cheaper than carpet cleaner and likely same ingredients. I will power wash the carpet after soaked in detergent and scrubbed at the self service car wash.
I am debating putting a qty of bulk baking soda throughout the interior before putting the seats back in. Might absorb possible lingering smells, but I don't smell anything inside the car at the moment.
After the carpet, the interior goes back in, I purchased replaced front seats which are sitting in the car now unmounted. Then I have to work on the trunk area, to include remounting the rear SAM and associated items.
In the final stretch with this flood vehicle.
Need to clean the carpet. It is out, I will soak carpet in clothes detergent, I think that is cheaper than carpet cleaner and likely same ingredients. I will power wash the carpet after soaked in detergent and scrubbed at the self service car wash.
I am debating putting a qty of bulk baking soda throughout the interior before putting the seats back in. Might absorb possible lingering smells, but I don't smell anything inside the car at the moment.
After the carpet, the interior goes back in, I purchased replaced front seats which are sitting in the car now unmounted. Then I have to work on the trunk area, to include remounting the rear SAM and associated items.
In the final stretch with this flood vehicle.
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Go to Lowes/HD and pick up Zep Premium Carpet Shampoo. $15/gallon and works pretty good.
Yeah, but they're a cool feature, only seen them work a few times on my car, basically just once or twice from the front, I can see the overspray when I'm in the car.That's like worrying about the curtains on the Titanic!
It's why I got the car....
Tons of cars have them...
I dislike them. They make a mess and serve little purpose here in NC. Imagine blasting washer fluid all over your Phaeton or black 911!
With one exception, I have deactivated them on every car that has had them equipped. My E32 had fixed headlight washers and they didn't make a mess all over the car. They were also necessary to clean the sleet/snow from the flat headlights. It would pack on pretty good.
Here we have snow and sleet so they do come in handy when driving in bad weather. They only come on after every 5-10 squirts of the windshield washer fluid when your headlights are on. You get a little overspray on the hood, but it doesn't really matter because it usually only comes on in bad weather and your car is covered in snow/sleet anyway.
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