Lake Speed Jr video - Ignore Factory oil specifications!

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This video reinforces what I’ve been telling the thinnies for over 20 years.
Thin around and find out.
I'm a thinny or rather, a Toyota follow the manual man. I'm not a zealot. If the data shows my Toyota engines would have done better on thicker oil at 5k than my 0w20 at 10k, I'll say that I should have listened. So far, no problems.
 
In the video LSJ stated that 0W40, like 0W20 is good for cold cranking down to minus 35C.
That means 5W30 is inappropriate for cold starting below minus 30C.
I’m predicting that 0W40 will soon be the recommended grade across the board in all GM gasoline engines and bringing with it an end to variable pressure oil pumps and start-stop “technology”.
Enough with lefty-lunacy already.
 
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In the video LSJ stated that 0W40, like 0W20 is good for cold cranking down to minus 35C.
That means 5W30 is inappropriate for cold starting below minus 30C.
I’m predicting that 0W40 will soon be the recommended grade across the board in all GM gasoline engines and bringing with it an end to variable pressure oil pumps and start-stop “technology”.
Enough with lefty-lunacy already.
While I dont need a 0W, heck where I live 25W is fine, the good thing about a 0W40, in particular a Euro spec such as A3B4 A40 etc. Is that it must be made using very high quality ingredients. Great base oils, add package, testing etc.
 
Listen I don’t hate the guy

I clearly stated I don’t appreciate click bait titles for very serious subjects

Heck I watch PF videos with curtains drawn

I get this too, some channels just rub me the wrong way with the wrong titles.

On the other hand, sometimes "outrageous" and "sarcastic" and "witty" etc can add spice to a dull topic. More often than not, I read your posts like your last one here and I'm laughing (with you), you obviously have enough wit and intelligence and the style of your posts don't detract from what you're actually trying to say.

So maybe we just need to give this guy a chance too, despite the clicky baity titles which you need to get viewership in the almighty google algorithm.
 
While I dont need a 0W, heck where I live 25W is fine, the good thing about a 0W40, in particular a Euro spec such as A3B4 A40 etc. Is that it must be made using very high quality ingredients. Great base oils, add package, testing etc.
In other words you haven’t tried Delo 400 SAE 40, or any of the 15W40s in your “0W40” engine.
I’ve run 15w40s in LS and 2014 and newer LT engines in 2500s, 3500s, son’s 2013 5.3L with 400,000 kms on it and my daughter’s 2022 3.6L Acadia.
Why pay more for redundant winter grades?
 
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Thank god for the cliff notes version provided by everyone…I can’t bring myself to watch him anymore. There’s something about the combination of his voice/facial expressions.
 
The issue I have with many of LSJr's videos is that he does what most folks do ... paints with a really broad brush. The generalizations he makes can be very misleading to the uninformed.

Most certainly, there are examples where thin lubes put engines at risk. Apparently, the GM 6.2L may be one of those cases. But there are lots of engines that survive (and even thrive) on 20 grade lubes and show no ill signs whatsoever. I've run 20 grade conventional oils in my 3.5L Cyclone Ford, and the wear traits were outstanding. There are lots of engines that do well on 20 grade oils. But some don't ... There are uninformed folks who will watch that video and think "I must change my oil to 0w-40 or it will explode ...", and that's patently untrue for many engines.

As with most things in life, viscosity isn't a one-size fits all answer.
 
In the video LSJ stated that 0W40, like 0W20 is good for cold cranking down to minus 35C.
That means 5W30 is inappropriate for cold starting below minus 30C.
I’m predicting that 0W40 will soon be the recommended grade across the board in all GM gasoline engines and bringing with it an end to variable pressure oil pumps and start-stop “technology”.
Enough with lefty-lunacy already.
Are you ok?
 
I know that a lot of people here think that an early oil change on a new engine is a waste of money and unnecessary but this situation here is just another example of why it’s a good idea. Just think about how many of these engines (and Toyota twin turbo engines) could have been saved simply by spending an extra $30 to do a 500-1000 mile oil change. It’s definitely a wise investment and this video should convince more of you that it’s a great idea.
 
I know that a lot of people here think that an early oil change on a new engine is a waste of money and unnecessary but this situation here is just another example of why it’s a good idea. Just think about how many of these engines (and Toyota twin turbo engines) could have been saved simply by spending an extra $30 to do a 500-1000 mile oil change. It’s definitely a wise investment and this video should convince more of you that it’s a great idea.
Just had dad's new JGC get its first oil change at 1,000km for this very reason, to flush out the break-in material.
 
I joke but I respect people's efforts and I make money why shouldn't they. Jealousy usually is the culprit.
People poo poo everything because in their minds they are the star. No I did not mention @AutoMechanic 😛
Always YT drama here and even the posters of said videos get beaten too 🙄
I think for some folks here it’s less about making sure people are educated and mostly about hearing the sound of their own voice.
 
I know that a lot of people here think that an early oil change on a new engine is a waste of money and unnecessary but this situation here is just another example of why it’s a good idea. Just think about how many of these engines (and Toyota twin turbo engines) could have been saved simply by spending an extra $30 to do a 500-1000 mile oil change. It’s definitely a wise investment and this video should convince more of you that it’s a great idea.
It would be nice if the vehicles were delivered "clean" from the factory too.
They ain't cheap...
 
Ummm, this forum has been probably the biggest source of pushback AGAINST those myths. Everything you just posted has been covered on here extensively over many years.

Also, the 6.2L HEMI (Hellcat engine) doesn't have MDS, it's the 6.4L that does.
I already corrected the 6.4 Hemi I owned one, I also owned a 5.7, and an ecodiesel. I also own a Ford that uses 5w-50.
 
I already corrected the 6.4 Hemi I owned one, I also owned a 5.7, and an ecodiesel. I also own a Ford that uses 5w-50.
OK, I've owned 4x 6.4's, currently own a 6.4L and 5.7L and also owned an EcoDiesel that I ran Delvac 1 5W-40 in. My point still stands, all of this has been beaten to death on here for years and this forum was one of the first places where there was pushback against the "you have to run 5W-20 or your HEMI will have a stroke" narrative that was pervasive on the MOPAR forums.
 
I did the free dealer change on my 21's l87 after around 700 miles if I recall since they called after 6 months and said to come in regardless of miles. I was willing to take it the full year but obliged since they at least put in the effort to put me in a calendar and call which is rare these days. Maybe that helped more than I realized before.
 
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