Kia / Hyundai engine issues disproportionately in US?

Ouch. What happened? And since it's 2020 it should move on to SmartStream series right?
Not sure exactly what smartstream refers to.
its a 2020 elantra value edition with 1st year CVT (they call it IVT)
only 1 or 2 trim levels had the 2L port injected engine.. out of the 5-6 trim levels.

Engine threw check engine light, No codes showed at autozone.
Hyundai dealer checked it and said "thats the needs a new engine code"

After some shiesty selling on fuel injector cleaning and flushes.. as well as changing out air and cabin filter
that I had changed 1000 miles before... (all extras were rejected)
They got it torn down and hyundai approved new long block

I think the code originates from the reprogrammed knock sensor that detects if bearings are going bad (or something like that).
It didnt show up on fairly advanced autozone scanner.

Edit:
Yes is appears to be the Nu engine
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Last edited:
Not sure exactly what smartstream refers to.
its a 2020 elantra value edition with 1st year CVT (they call it IVT)
only 1 or 2 trim levels had the 2L port injected engine.. out of the 5-6 trim levels.
Sorry my bad. Just checking the spec and 2.0L supposed to be Nu engine.
 
For what little time I got to drive my Santa Fe, I noticed the shift patters very strange. ECO mode or not, it would hold on to gear too long for my liking, odd programming in my opinion. It would keep the RPM higher than I expected while cruising, almost to the point where I would need to go just a little faster to get it to shift and stop it from racing. Then I thought to myself, is this programming intentional? To mitigate carbon build up 🤷‍♂️
 
For what little time I got to drive my Santa Fe, I noticed the shift patters very strange. ECO mode or not, it would hold on to gear too long for my liking, odd programming in my opinion. It would keep the RPM higher than I expected while cruising, almost to the point where I would need to go just a little faster to get it to shift and stop it from racing. Then I thought to myself, is this programming intentional? To mitigate carbon build up 🤷‍♂️
The Eco Mode in our 2013 Optima would up shift too fast. This was to keep the engine RPMS low. This caused the engine to lug. With the Eco Mode off, up shifts were were timed correctly with engine RPMS.
 
So, we only had my wife’s 2019 Tucson with the Nu 2.0 for about 2 years. Bought it used during COVID as my son had an accident and totaled the 2012 Santa Fe (MPI.). Santa Fe was great. Over 200k. Did not burn a drop of oil. Only failures during its life was a crankshaft position sensor, starter and an MCV runner motor (shaft broke.) Fantastic car.

The 2019 Tucson with the Nu 2.0 was an oil burner. Dealer serviced every 5K. We got it at 33K. I change oil every 5K w/ 5W-30 synthetic (Quaker State mostly, but used a couple others.). Engine used probably a quart per oil change. Got rid of it.

My son got a 2019 Santa Fe with the Theta 2 2.4L. He got a great deal on it, and got it, even though I told him my doubts. It had 40K when we got it. Has close to 52K now. It just got its 3rd oil change since we got it. Doing 4K OCI. So far, been a good car. Does not seem to burn any oil in 4,000 mile OCI. Very very little if any.

Our 2014 Kia Rio with the Gamma 1.6…..documented my woes with this thing many times here. Junk engine.


So, at this point, I’m done with Hyundai/Kia. If the new Smartstream engines, or whatever they’re called, fixes the issues, then good for them. But…took too long. I don’t trust the brand anymore. Just praying my sons Santa Fe doesn’t blow.
 
H/K has the same issue as Nissan-their (former?) target demographic consists/consisted of financially challenged customers that would honestly be better off using public transit than driving (& destroying/damaging) a new car they couldn't afford, which then gets repo'ed, pieced back together, and sent to the local hoopty used car lot for the process to repeat itself. Now that new car prices have skyrocketed, it's less of an issue; but, there's still lots of that Big Altima Energy around here.
Two Hyundais with a total of 230k miles. No engine problems, no oil burning. They rust just like Fords though.
 
So, we only had my wife’s 2019 Tucson with the Nu 2.0 for about 2 years. Bought it used during COVID as my son had an accident and totaled the 2012 Santa Fe (MPI.). Santa Fe was great. Over 200k. Did not burn a drop of oil. Only failures during its life was a crankshaft position sensor, starter and an MCV runner motor (shaft broke.) Fantastic car.

The 2019 Tucson with the Nu 2.0 was an oil burner. Dealer serviced every 5K. We got it at 33K. I change oil every 5K w/ 5W-30 synthetic (Quaker State mostly, but used a couple others.). Engine used probably a quart per oil change. Got rid of it.

My son got a 2019 Santa Fe with the Theta 2 2.4L. He got a great deal on it, and got it, even though I told him my doubts. It had 40K when we got it. Has close to 52K now. It just got its 3rd oil change since we got it. Doing 4K OCI. So far, been a good car. Does not seem to burn any oil in 4,000 mile OCI. Very very little if any.

Our 2014 Kia Rio with the Gamma 1.6…..documented my woes with this thing many times here. Junk engine.


So, at this point, I’m done with Hyundai/Kia. If the new Smartstream engines, or whatever they’re called, fixes the issues, then good for them. But…took too long. I don’t trust the brand anymore. Just praying my sons Santa Fe doesn’t blow.
I'm going to tell my wife that if her next car is going to be another Hyundai/Kia then she needs to get a separate CAA account for towing. Lol. We get 4 a year and if the Hyundai needs 3 a year it doesn't leave a lot for my 20 year old work truck.
 
I’ve had 3 Hyundai vehicles. 2009 Santa Fe , 2012 Elantra, and 2016 Sonata . Still running the Sonata at 137k the other two had 0ver 140k when I sold them . All of them 5w20 with 8 oz of Prolong at every oil change and also a bottle of Gumout Regain . The 2009 I ran 5W30 with Prolong . Never had a problem ever and I’ve decided to go thru the Sonata and keep it for a few more years . All of them ran like new when I sold them . The Santa Fe had about 100k of pulling two Snowmobiles up north over its life and was an excellent SUV . I do think some had problem's but if you take care of them they last just fine .
 
This is inaccurate. Average age of cars in North America is the same in Europe, 12 vs 12.3 from a quick google search.

When it comes to pedal to the metal, that's not true either. You guys have the autobahn there (for a start), and I find in my area of North America there are way too many slow drivers. I've driven in Europe, the only thing I'd say that's different is that most people respect the "drive on the right, pass on the left" rule which far too many people in NA do not follow. That's about it.

Nobody here views cars as disposable. I have no idea where you got that from. Keep in mind that much of NA uses huge amounts of salt on the winter roads, I don't know if they do that everywhere in EU but here it absolutely wrecks cars and puts them down and out before the rest of the car is done. Lots of pickups and suv here could go for a lot longer but they're just rotted through, even despite under oiling them.
I agree with you about the road salt. I absolutely hate it and I wish they'd quit putting it on the roads. People should learn how to drive on slick roads, or stay home. Road salt causes a premature death to way too many vehicles. I don't agree that people don't view their vehicles as throwaways. The vast majority of vehicle owners these days don't maintain their vehicles worth a darn. They put gas in them and drive them. That's it...
 
To add to my previous post, the days of finding the barely driven by Aunt Maude vehicle, that's had every maintenance job performed at the dealership, and is always kept clean and garaged are long gone...
 
My wife bought a one year old 2019 Tucson with the 2.0 GDI back in 2020. We went to look at a Ford Explorer but she really liked this better and the price was really good because they had it written up as having 112,000 km when it actually only had 12,000km. They didn’t notice this until we were in the final stages of signing the paperwork and I pointed it out them. They then said they wouldn’t sell it for that price so I walked out on it. They called back the next day and we did the deal at the original price(this was in the early COVID days and no one was spending money, they were desperate for a sale).

4 years later and we still have it. I do oil changes every 6 months which is usually around 5-6,000km, mostly short trips around town. Since it’s small we always take my full size truck on road trips so it almost never gets a long trip.

Despite all that it seems to be doing well, doesn’t burn oil, the fuel dilution doesn’t seem to bad from the smell test.

It either just ran out of warranty or is about to. We were all set to dump it and were searching for a replacement when we got a recall notice from Hyundai stating if we take it in for this recall they will extend the engine warranty to 10 years. It was the recall that programs it to use the knock sensor to predict bearing failure(allegedly).

Without the concern of getting stuck with a engine replacement bill I told the wife she could keep it if she wants or we could continue looking for a replacement(we were looking for a low mile 2-4 year old highlander). She asked how much difference it would be to upgrade, I said about 30k probably so she said nah let’s just keep this.

Anyways, didn’t mean to ramble on but I’m not sure how long we will keep this one but can’t see us getting another but I would buy one for my kids if the price was right. I like how the HVAC controls are still knobs and buttons, the car seems to be user serviceable friendly and parts are not inexpensive.
 
This is the "replace engine code" on most H/K's.
The sonata last year threw this code. After a tow and diagnostics at the dealership, it was confirmed that the engine is OK but there was a wiring harness/sensor connectivity issue that caused this code and not a mechanical issue.
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This is the "replace engine code" on most H/K's.
The sonata last year threw this code. After a tow and diagnostics at the dealership, it was confirmed that the engine is OK but there was a wiring harness/sensor connectivity issue that caused this code and not a mechanical issue.
View attachment 232567View attachment 232568
So now we have another point of failure that can leave my wife stranded waiting for a tow truck in her Sonata. Funny this is it didn't pick up anything right before the engine seized up.
 
Welp. Figured I should update as in my own words, believed the 2.4L issues were blown massively out of proportion... But here we are.... and for the record, P1326 code is an actual confirmed firsthand replace engine code I have experienced...

I recently purchased a Kia SX 5 with some mild issues... but NO current knock or codes for P1326, and the 2.4L MPI engine sounded and ran okay-ish. Drove around 80 miles without a hiccup... by mile 81 while near my exit on a mild hill, the engine downshifted but the power was lacking... followed by the check engine light... within 12 seconds the light starting flashing, and was losing power at an alarming rate..... under 2 mins later I was on the side of the road with the worst rod piston knock I have ever heard in my life. turned the car off and it never stated up again... - the 2.4L engine was LOCKED UP solid.

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I was considering a Hyundai/Kia product as I like their designs, however I noticed many adds mentioned a freshly installed engine. So that coupled with all the reports on the internet steered me away from them.

If I was buying brand new with their 10 year, 100k mile warranty I would have less hesitation, but as a second hand owner, I don’t want to deal with a blown engine out of the blue. And the inconsistency of the failures is also a big factor.
 
I was considering a Hyundai/Kia product as I like their designs, however I noticed many adds mentioned a freshly installed engine. So that coupled with all the reports on the internet steered me away from them.

If I was buying brand new with their 10 year, 100k mile warranty I would have less hesitation, but as a second hand owner, I don’t want to deal with a blown engine out of the blue. And the inconsistency of the failures is also a big factor.
The 10 year/100k mile warranty was a big part of my rationale. That effectively gets me through what I consider the useable life of a $20k car driven by three teen boys.

That, and I can baby it with 5k OCIs using thicker oil and I can follow the severe use schedule. Just had the CVT fluid changed at 30k miles because for $300, why not, and hopefully that increases the likelihood of not failing prematurely.

Someone else’s maintenance and no 10/100? Nope!
 
I just watched a chase video of a new Elantra take 4 PIT maneuvers from chasing police explorers. If that doesn't show their confidence of 10y/100k mile warranty, I don't know what does :ROFLMAO:
 
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