Keeping a vehicle for the long haul…oil choice

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2023 Acadia 2.0T. Buying off lease in 8 months. 16.5k miles so about 7.5k per year. Changing now at 6 months with mobil1 ep 5w30. No issues but a little noisier than other oils.

Will be purchasing a GM extended warranty. So, maybe a dexos oil is important?

Plan on keeping this vehicle for quite some time as I plan to also purchase a fun car to drive when it’s nice.

Do I continue with M1? Castrol edge gold? QS? Non dexos I could go with M1 ESP or spring for HPL, but it’s pricey.

Thoughts?
 
Given the demise of many engines can be cleanliness related in the long haul, an oil like Valvoline restore and protect, HPL, M1 0w40, ESP comes to mind
I believe M1 0w40 is too high saps for dexos. Maybe not?

Restore and protect is interesting. But not dexos. But maybe ok. Have thought about going valvoline. 3 quarts of their ep synthetic and 2 quarts R&P.
 
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I believe M1 0w40 is too high saps for dexos. Maybe not?

Restore and protect is interesting. But not dexos. But maybe ok.
the likelihood of having a spotless engine under warranty needing proof of oil changes is low. For peace of mind you could purchase dexos oil and return it with receipts.
 
the likelihood of having a spotless engine under warranty needing proof of oil changes is low. For peace of mind you could purchase dexos oil and return it with receipts.
Right but high saps could lead to IVD…
 
2023 Acadia 2.0T. Buying off lease in 8 months. 16.5k miles so about 7.5k per year. Changing now at 6 months with mobil1 ep 5w30. No issues but a little noisier than other oils.

Will be purchasing a GM extended warranty. So, maybe a dexos oil is important?

Plan on keeping this vehicle for quite some time as I plan to also purchase a fun car to drive when it’s nice.

Do I continue with M1? Castrol edge gold? QS? Non dexos I could go with M1 ESP or spring for HPL, but it’s pricey.

Thoughts?

Doesn't the manual call for 0w/20 ?
 
Yep. Not running it. It’s recommended. Not doing it
from a previous post of mine-
I towed my 5,000 pound travel trailer up to Leadville, Colorado-10,000 feet elevation during the past summer-it's was 90 degrees. The vehicle performed flawlessly.
I run what the manual states 0w/20.
Pretty sure your vehicle won't ever see those conditions.
 
Why not mid SAPS Euro oil with reasonable OCI?
If and when it comes to burning oil then VRP.
My Sportage started burning about 3 OCIs ago and it took one OCI on VRP to get back to burn free. It has 114k miles on it now.
 
Yep. Not running it. It’s recommended. Not doing it
Can’t say I blame you. My daughter’s 2022 has the 3.6L and has been on xW40 for the last three oil changes.
Since you have the 2L turbo, lspi is a possibility with engine oils that are not API SP or SQ approved.
With little or no oil consumption that you will have with xW40s, the higher saps that A3/B4 Euro 0W40 and 5W40 have should not be a concern.
Havoline has two 5W40s, one Euro and one not. I like the one that meets SQ better.
 
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I’d give the Restore and Protect a try, but keep in mind that engine shouldn’t need cleaning at only 16,500 miles using Mobil1 EP every 7,500 miles. I’ve been using Mobil1 EP in my Toyota for 162,000 miles…been considering the Restore and Protect but part of me wonders why? The engine is spotless. Mobil1 EP already is an oil capable of keeping things clean. But this is an oil site, I’m an oil junky…part of me wants to run a conventional oil for a year just so I can clean it out with the Restore and Protect. 🤣🤣 Let’s face it…there’s something wrong with all of us here.
 
The car itself is more important than the oil as far as its longevity IMO. My '08 Honda 2.4L CR-V now has almost 325,000 miles. I change the oil and filter (Fram or Wix) every 5000 miles. Probably 85% of the time it's some form of Pennzoil, the other 15% has been Valvoline, Castrol or Quaker State. It consumes about 1.5 qts per 5K but still runs and performs like new. It calls for 5W-20 but I've used 0W-20 for several years now. This forum has convinced me that the 0W probably has a better base oil. Plus the other cars actually call for 0W so there's that.
On the other hand, my wife had an '08 Saturn Outlook V6 that I also maintained with the same oil change parameters. At slightly over 100,000 miles, a rod bearing failed and we literally ended up selling the car for junk. It was never a good car and it didn't deserve a new or rebuilt engine. It was better to cut or losses and move on.
So, I think if you have a good car and treat it well, it will last. If you have a crappy car and treat it well, it won't matter.
 
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