K24 and 10k OCIs

[supton]

On the Element forums I have not heard of JDMs being bad and are the first resort for replacements. I would trust them but as with all some will report bad. Just like any repair, is it worth it, is up to you. Definitely cheaper than a new car payment

It would be cheaper, but I think the rust is setting in. I need to pull all the stupid plastic bits off and inspect what lurks underneath--this has covers over the rockers and who knows what lurks. Every bushing in the suspension is pounded out I think, as it wears tires funny despite recent alignments, and in the end, it took 17 years to rack up 160k by my MIL who lived 1 mile from work. Trans still works great... today...

 

[Spring Break '92]

Run it until it dies or buy a JDM motor to replace it. I wouldn't bother trying to repair it just replace it.

This is the way.

 

[Sedin26]

Does anyone have recommendations for general preventative maintenance items for the K24?

I have a 2005 CRV with 320,000km. No issues to speak of at this time but I’d like to keep it going for the long haul.

 

[ThirdeYe]

Probably does, I should have checked when it was warmer out. Last time I looked one looked like this--I'm guessing it could stand to be tightened up a bit. The others aren't as bad, so maybe it's time.
View attachment 260075

That's an incredible amount of lobe wear. Mine were pretty worn when I had the valve cover off at 666k miles, but not that bad. Some batches of K24 cams had issues with the hardness of the lobes. I had the valves adjusted on mine even with the lobe wear, and hope to run it as long as I can. It hasn't affected the driveability yet.

Here's mine if you're curious:

T

Thread 'My 2007 Accord with 666,800 miles (Valvetrain Shots)'

Oct 31, 2024

I attempted to change the valve cover gasket on my long-leaking high-mileage Accord yesterday, but one of the nuts holding the valve cover on was stripped and would not come off. I decided to take it in to the dealer to have them do it, and adjust the valves while it was there. I asked them to take some photos while the cover was off, and here is what they sent me. In the 95k miles I've owned the car, I haven't adjusted the valves or had the valve cover off. I am not sure if the valves were ever adjusted before. The timing chain is original, as far as I know. The previous owner put 571k...

• ThirdeYe
• Replies: 77
• Forum: Mechanical/Maintenance Forum

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[wlk]

Does anyone have recommendations for general preventative maintenance items for the K24?

I have a 2005 CRV with 320,000km. No issues to speak of at this time but I’d like to keep it going for the long haul.

Valve adjustments is priority every 80-100k miles. Change fluids regularly and if you haven't you may want to change the vtec screen at the solenoid and behind the power steering pump. Change the diff fluid with only Honda Dual pump II fluid.

 

[supton]

That's an incredible amount of lobe wear. Mine were pretty worn when I had the valve cover off at 666k miles, but not that bad. Some batches of K24 cams had issues with the hardness of the lobes.

I think I read it was either just for 2003, or it was mostly just 2003. Something like that it. Maybe later on we'll check it again, son seems to like the car, so there is some value in making it last longer.

 

[Sedin26]

Valve adjustments is priority every 80-100k miles. Change fluids regularly and if you haven't you may want to change the vtec screen at the solenoid and behind the power steering pump. Change the diff fluid with only Honda Dual pump II fluid.

I’m good on all of that except the vtec screen - I’ll check into it. Might also change the serpentine belt - hasn’t been done for at least 100k

 

[melk]

I should be in possession of a 2007 CRV soon. 140k miles roughly. needs front end work but otherwise engine and transmission seem to be in good shape. will have the assessment from my preferred mechanic next week. excited to have one of these engines!

 

[Spring Break '92]

I’m good on all of that except the vtec screen - I’ll check into it. Might also change the serpentine belt - hasn’t been done for at least 100k

Most people that have changed their oil at 5K miles and/or used synthetic don't usually need them. There are two, the other one is for the VTC actuator oil drain. If you are in there checking you may as well just replace them for as much work as they take to remove, they leak sooner or later.

I absolutely would change the drive belt. I actually had mine on for 206K miles and it still looked good, but that was completely good fortune. It was on me for not doing it 100K miles sooner. I got lucky.

Someone else above asked about maintenance items. Full synthetic and ditch the 0W20, spark plugs, MAF cleaning, new timing chain tensioner, and valve adjustment every 100K miles. OEM Honda ATF and OEM Honda air filter every 25K miles/year. I would change oil between the 50% and 25% reading on the MM if you go by that. OEM Honda oil filters are nothing special, in my opinion they are way overrated. Make sure you buy genuine good aftermarket iridium spark plugs, there are fakes out there.

 

[wlk]

There are two, the other one is for the VTC actuator oil drain.

This one makes 3 if you can get it out without breaking. Mine has a minor oil weep, tried pulling it out but didn't want to break it. I left it as it isn't that bad, it is just a simple oring but man is it stuck

 

[crashz]

Supton - definitely take a peek behind the plastic before you decide to put money in your CRV. My 2006 looked great underneath (thanks fluid film) and outside, but when I opened the cladding, the body was rotted through. It took a lot of construction adhesive to get it back on!

At about 200k I opened the valve cover to adjust the valves and all were in tolerance except one was a just a tiny bit tight. I drove a lot of highway miles, so 10k OCIs were like every 8-10 weeks. I went from 0w-20 Amsoil OE to 5w-30 Amsoil OE and the engine stayed nice and clean. Rarely needed any make-up oil between changes, but the level would drop a little. Drove it daily to 303k miles.

I went through brakes like every 6 months. And a barrage of other issues: bushings, exhaust, catalytic converter, electric windows and switches, starter, alternator, battery and cables, etc.

Gave it to my niece last year and had a pile of trouble with the power steering, which killed the alternator and various other bits. I fixed it all and she traded it in for a new Civic. Frankly, I'm glad its gone.

 

[Bullwinkle007]

I don’t think these are common issues, disagree on 0w20, but am in complete agreement on 10,000 mile OCIs being unwise.

I ran Mobil 1 0/40 in mine, never an issue inside. OCI 5k. Had 5sp manual and saw a lot of highway driving with an avg 90 cruising speeds which is at 3500 rpm with a manual

 

[Bullwinkle007]

Valve adjustments is priority every 80-100k miles. Change fluids regularly and if you haven't you may want to change the vtec screen at the solenoid and behind the power steering pump. Change the diff fluid with only Honda Dual pump II fluid.

My Acura MDX used ATF Z1. Once that went away Honda said used that. I used Redline ATF D4. Meets the Z1 spec

 

[wlk]

My Acura MDX used ATF Z1. Once that went away Honda said used that. I used Redline ATF D4. Meets the Z1 spec

I had been a Dw-1 only since I bought my Element but this time I went with Valvoline MV Import syn ATF. No difference so far in shifts, will do 2 more after about 1k miles. I wanted a synthetic, V MV Import has ATF Z1 spec and at $20/gal it can't be beat. My Element was also ATF Z1 spec when new

 

[Revving2Redline]

I would say if you use an HPL version that 10k should be doable while keeping the rings clear. Of course you would want to do a couple UOA’s to confirm use in your motor.

My daughters ’08 CRV 2.4L does not burn any at 5k intervals currently. For the first 210k it had mostly dealer oil changes with whatever bulk oil and filter.

I did a BG EPR just because a couple years ago. I did 2 rounds of EC30 with 4-5k OCI that got some carbon junk out. Now on second OCI using 1 qt of HPL PCMO 5W-30 with other 5W-30 versions. Pictures posted in EC30 thread. Also showing low flow baffle plate area getting cleaned slowly. I presume the ring areas with more active oil movement are better.

Contrast to CRV, my ’17 Accord 2.4L with 114k does burn oil, about 1-1.5 qts every 5k and has since I got it with 49k. Maybe previous owner did damage early? Probably more from hitting higher RPM’s often. Looks shiny silver through oil fill and my oil stays clean for a while each OCI so doubt it. PCV has been changed and will be again shortly. Going longer toward MM for me on that just means more added to top off so I’d rather just change it. My cars are 1-2 OC per year except the Accord maybe getting a 3rd one. YMMV

Im at almost 400,000 miles and my consumption isnt too bad with 5w30 synthetic. If i get it over 90mph or 5K it will consume. New regiment of 5-6k oci and oil and filter at o%. With intake, exhaust, midpipe, etc fun to hear the Borla rumble still after 4 yrs.

 

[Revving2Redline]

I would say if you use an HPL version that 10k should be doable while keeping the rings clear. Of course you would want to do a couple UOA’s to confirm use in your motor.

My daughters ’08 CRV 2.4L does not burn any at 5k intervals currently. For the first 210k it had mostly dealer oil changes with whatever bulk oil and filter.

I did a BG EPR just because a couple years ago. I did 2 rounds of EC30 with 4-5k OCI that got some carbon junk out. Now on second OCI using 1 qt of HPL PCMO 5W-30 with other 5W-30 versions. Pictures posted in EC30 thread. Also showing low flow baffle plate area getting cleaned slowly. I presume the ring areas with more active oil movement are better.

Now the questions are WHY do you want to go to 10k intervals? Two 5 qt jugs of VRP is still less than 5 qts of HPL base PCMO. So you would save the cost of one filter if you change at 5k vs 10k. If it’s a time and hassle thing that’s another story. If your racking 50k plus per year on it and includes downtime maybe. Environmental reasons not using more?

For me I’m sticking with ~5k intervals on hers with 1 qt of HPL PCMO in place of whatever I’m using.

Contrast to CRV, my ’17 Accord 2.4L with 114k does burn oil, about 1-1.5 qts every 5k and has since I got it with 49k. Maybe previous owner did damage early? Probably more from hitting higher RPM’s often. Looks shiny silver through oil fill and my oil stays clean for a while each OCI so doubt it. PCV has been changed and will be again shortly. Going longer toward MM for me on that just means more added to top off so I’d rather just change it. My cars are 1-2 OC per year except the Accord maybe getting a 3rd one. YMMV

Try the VRP or the Valvoline HM EP hths 3.3 w Schaeffer's #132 Moly EP

 

[JimPghPA]

It's a great way to turn your engine into an oil burner. The K24's tend to burn significant amounts of oil when they get older and the ones that see long OCI's are almost always the worst offenders.

Bingo, we have a winner. He ^ knows what he's talking about.

Besides piston rings, cam chains get toooooooo much slack from the minute size dirt ( stuff too small for the oil filter to catch and small enough to get into the pivot joints of cam chains ), in older oil, wearing away every one of the pins and holes. It's a very small amount of wear, but multiply it by the number of those pivot points and it adds up to enough play that the cams get too far out of time with the crank, and then the engine computer turns on the check wallet light. And doing a cam chain is a lot of tear down and put it all back together work. That alone is good reason to stay with short oil changes.

And cam chains get less lube if the oil is low, because they dip into the oil. So its a good idea to keep it near full on the dip-stick.

 

[Carlostrece]

It's a great way to turn your engine into an oil burner. The K24's tend to burn significant amounts of oil when they get older and the ones that see long OCI's are almost always the worst offenders.

Agreed!

I'm currently dealing with trying to solve massive oil consumption in my neighbor's K24 engine. While I don't yet have it fully diagnosed (work in progress), I strongly suspect a 10K OCI caused it. It was driven 50/50 city/highway.

I suggest:
3500K miles OCI for city driving (my neighbor's K24)
5000K miles OCI for mixed city/highway driving (@cammyfive79 OP)
7000K miles OCI for highway driving.

I suggest using 5w30 VRP until engine is clean, or use it forever. If you later switch to a lower price oil, then I recommend Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Syn 5w30 because it's good at keeping engine clean.

I also recommend a good oil filter that filters fine particles, such as NAPA Gold or Oreilly Microgard Select which filter 23-25 microns @ 99%.

Then I'd take it to next level by adding a pair of Filtermag SS filters onto the oil filter.

Using Top Tier gas will help by keeping injectors cleaner, which reduces fuel dilution. Top Tier gas also reduces wear on rings, which helps prevent oil consumption. My research leads me to think that Shell and Costco gas are the best, but all other brands of Top Tier gas are good.

@cammyfive79 OP, you might want to see this other thread. It has K24 oil consumption related info you might want to know about. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/03-honda-cr-v-loses-oil-like-crazy.398039/

 

[MalibuRam65]

Agreed!

I'm currently dealing with trying to solve massive oil consumption in my neighbor's K24 engine. While I don't yet have it fully diagnosed (work in progress), I strongly suspect a 10K OCI caused it. It was driven 50/50 city/highway.

I suggest:
3500K miles OCI for city driving (my neighbor's K24)
5000K miles OCI for mixed city/highway driving (@cammyfive79 OP)
7000K miles OCI for highway driving.

I suggest using 5w30 VRP until engine is clean, or use it forever. If you later switch to a lower price oil, then I recommend Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Syn 5w30 because it's good at keeping engine clean.

I also recommend a good oil filter that filters fine particles, such as NAPA Gold or Oreilly Microgard Select which filter 23-25 microns @ 99%.

Then I'd take it to next level by adding a pair of Filtermag SS filters onto the oil filter.

Using Top Tier gas will help by keeping injectors cleaner, which reduces fuel dilution. Top Tier gas also reduces wear on rings, which helps prevent oil consumption. My research leads me to think that Shell and Costco gas are the best, but all other brands of Top Tier gas are good.

@cammyfive79 OP, you might want to see this other thread. It has K24 oil consumption related info you might want to know about. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/03-honda-cr-v-loses-oil-like-crazy.398039/

Yes indeed shell and Costco has good gasoline. But let’s not forget Mobil and chevron are great top tier gasoline companies as well.

 

[BrendanC]

Agreed!

I'm currently dealing with trying to solve massive oil consumption in my neighbor's K24 engine. While I don't yet have it fully diagnosed (work in progress), I strongly suspect a 10K OCI caused it. It was driven 50/50 city/highway.

I suggest:
3500K miles OCI for city driving (my neighbor's K24)
5000K miles OCI for mixed city/highway driving (@cammyfive79 OP)
7000K miles OCI for highway driving.

I suggest using 5w30 VRP until engine is clean, or use it forever. If you later switch to a lower price oil, then I recommend Quaker State Ultimate Protection Full Syn 5w30 because it's good at keeping engine clean.

I also recommend a good oil filter that filters fine particles, such as NAPA Gold or Oreilly Microgard Select which filter 23-25 microns @ 99%.

Then I'd take it to next level by adding a pair of Filtermag SS filters onto the oil filter.

Using Top Tier gas will help by keeping injectors cleaner, which reduces fuel dilution. Top Tier gas also reduces wear on rings, which helps prevent oil consumption. My research leads me to think that Shell and Costco gas are the best, but all other brands of Top Tier gas are good.

@cammyfive79 OP, you might want to see this other thread. It has K24 oil consumption related info you might want to know about. https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/03-honda-cr-v-loses-oil-like-crazy.398039/

HOT berryman B12 piston soak, 30 minute 2k rpm BG EPR flush. then HPL EC30 mixed with VRP for 5k miles. took my wife’s accord from 1qt/500miles to running 12k without burning a drop of HPL PCEO 5w-40.

we only buy shell 87 octane gasoline in this house.