Interesting that the 2nd Gen CrV's just didn't seem to have this issue but the 3rd and 4th did. I wonder if the Restore and Protect used over 10 to 30K miles could or would clean the gunked up piston rings? Or Pennzoil GTL motor oils. One thing I have noticed on my Ford Focus 2.0 Mazda-powered car, my wife's Ford powered CX-9(Duratec 3.7), my daughters 2006 3.3 Lexus RX330 and my Scion XD 1.8 is that if I used the specified oils, they burn a LOT more oil. That is one reason I went to 15w-40. Oil consumption went waaaay down on all my cars after doing so. My extended OCI's are well documented.
K24 and 10k OCIs
- Thread starter cammyfive79
- Start date
I previously owned a 2009 Honda Accord LX and a 2012 Honda Accord EX-L, both with the k24 Honda engines.
I had bought them used, with low miles (less than 60k miles).
For some reason both required top up oil of about a half quart every 4,000 miles from the day I bought them.
At that time, I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with 4,000 mile OCI.
What turns engines into chronic oil burners is gunked up stuck piston rings which end up making
an unrepairable groove in the cylinder wall.
If you really wanted to do 10k OCI, the only oil I would feel safe doing it with is an HPL oil.
For my vehicles, I prefer a 5,000 mile / 6 month (whichever comes first) OCI.
I had bought them used, with low miles (less than 60k miles).
For some reason both required top up oil of about a half quart every 4,000 miles from the day I bought them.
At that time, I was using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum with 4,000 mile OCI.
What turns engines into chronic oil burners is gunked up stuck piston rings which end up making
an unrepairable groove in the cylinder wall.
If you really wanted to do 10k OCI, the only oil I would feel safe doing it with is an HPL oil.
For my vehicles, I prefer a 5,000 mile / 6 month (whichever comes first) OCI.
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That's what my decision is to do now - 6 months/5K. I was just curious since this particular K24 is naturally aspirated and has no direct injection, if 10K miles were common.
I've read in various posts that even though the k24 Honda engines have very long longevity (200k to 300k+ miles), they do tend to slowly increase their oil burning as they age. I'm unsure of the exact cause, but doing 5k/6 month OCI could help to prevent this.
My personal preferences for my 3 Honda Odysseys is:
I only use 5W-30 (not the 20 weight oil most Hondas are speced for) as I prefer the higher HTHS protection.
Also, I like using a Dexos 1 Gen 3 high mileage full synthetic oil, for some added protection against sludge/varnish deposits,
and to treat the oil seals to lessen the chance of any future oil leaks onto my clean driveway.
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I had a last gen TL SH-AWD J37 V6 previously and even with low mileage it was probably on it's way to consuming oil as it aged; there was a recall on many of them for oil burning. The K24 doesn't seem to have that exact problem but an ounce of prevention in the form of shorter OCIs seems to be a prudent step.
What’s wrong with 10k intervals if you know the oil is up to the task?
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- Apr 4, 2023
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I have virtually the same question-- if an oil is used that has Euro approvals, any problem with 10K OCI?
My mom has give or take a 2014 Accord w/ k24 that goes through at least a quart or two between changes. I changed the oil last month with 5w20 R&P and Fram ph9688 filter. Honda calls for 0w20 but honestly this area doesn't get cold enough for that and even a 10w would be fine for most days.
It seems like everytime i change the oil it's always low, I told her I'll need to start checking it more often. The dealer changes it sometimes and most likely using a bulk 0w20 blend.
It seems like everytime i change the oil it's always low, I told her I'll need to start checking it more often. The dealer changes it sometimes and most likely using a bulk 0w20 blend.
All I can tell you is, when a top independent shop did a little work on our beloved 2006 TSX with about 180K at the time, he could not believe how clean it was. I've always done 5K, or less, services with M1 5w30. 230K now, and it does not go through a drop between services.
I like to take care of my stuff. I don't subscribe to 10K OCIs. Your results may vary... Good luck.
My K24 in my Element starts burning VRP 5w30 after 4k miles. I would not run it any longer than 4k. My Element never burned oil over a 5k mile oci with other oils. I am using the VRP to clean up varnish not bc it burns. I solved that w a piston soak and other additives.
I understand the emotional aspect of short OCI's, what I was asking is what is wrong with a 10k+ interval if the oil is still serviceable? Yes, running an oil past the mileage it can handle will certainly leave crud behind.
10k mile oil changes were selling points that drew people in for “low maintenance cost”. Then, surprise, you’ve got an oil burner after the warranty expired. Most folks will never know if the oil is up to the task. I’ll change my oil the same way the manufacturer says to change the air filter….50%
Again, my original question was side-stepped.
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Maybe hard to separate the emotion from the cost benefit and experience for many. The oil may be up for the task and still serviceable and maybe for a lot longer even in the correct conditions. That also depends on the vehicle/motor and how much it beats up and degrades the oil with contributing factors in newer vehicles from GDI and TGDI. The driving conditions added to that like my wife's less than 2 mile drive to work where motor doesn't even get to temperature with liberal gas pedal applications don't help.
If I were to say with my heart emotions or brain economics 10k is good than I want to verify with a used oil analysis and some random monitoring in future to keep confirming. That UOA will cost me at least $30 which is the same as changing my oil that I know will keep cleaner less contaminated oil working as it should. I will do random tests anyway but a couple bad UOA's, high metals, high FD, with possible bearing failure recalls etc., why add the doubt. Why contribute to the cycle of wear and potential carbon buildup if no cost benefit.
Some vehicles with whichever rated oil also shear and start using more at a certain miles. if 4k needs 1 quart top off but 8k needs 3-4 quarts than I'm using the same amount as just changing to fresh at 4k. That is an experience I know people have had.
I carry a quart of oil in my 2.4L '17 Accord with 114k and it gets used and refilled within 5k. My daughters 2.4L '08 CRV with 240k we do not carry an extra quart as it doesn't use any at 5k changes. YMMV.
Thanks for the reply.
Sure, the upfront cost is a bit more: pick your oil, run it, do a uoa or two to find out how far you can go, from then on it becomes MORE economical. One great example is wwilson, little upfront investment now he knows he can run **** near 30k OCI’s safely and spending less per change. I know, that won’t work in every car, however, modern oils are dumped prematurely most of the time.
What it comes down to is the irony of being surrounded by people complaining that costs of goods are out of control, yet we are still doing short changes because it “feels good” and the bogus “oil is cheap” saying. It’s a good place to save coin yet still protect our big investments. Same guy that passes me doing 90 on I-5 in a lifted F-350 will be the first to complain that fuel and oil are too expensive….
Sure, the upfront cost is a bit more: pick your oil, run it, do a uoa or two to find out how far you can go, from then on it becomes MORE economical. One great example is wwilson, little upfront investment now he knows he can run **** near 30k OCI’s safely and spending less per change. I know, that won’t work in every car, however, modern oils are dumped prematurely most of the time.
What it comes down to is the irony of being surrounded by people complaining that costs of goods are out of control, yet we are still doing short changes because it “feels good” and the bogus “oil is cheap” saying. It’s a good place to save coin yet still protect our big investments. Same guy that passes me doing 90 on I-5 in a lifted F-350 will be the first to complain that fuel and oil are too expensive….
I've been a "change at 5K....just because" owner even though I generally don't keep my car for the 200K+ mileage intervals as some here do. My question maybe should have been put a different way - "does the K24 that is not direct injected seem to me 'hard' on oil?". I know there are members here running barely believable 30K intervals with HPL that do seem to be supported by UOA; that would never be me. However, I was just curious if this engine was notoriously hard on oil say the way a Hyundai/Kia Theta II engine is.
Here is an oil analysis from my K24 and ~9200 miles on 0W-20 M1 ESP
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K24 engine is solid.
Patman
Staff member
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