2014 TSX K24 + HPL Euro 5W30 = safe for 10K mile OCI right off the bat?

[cammyfive79]

I asked a similar question not too long ago but didn't indicate the desired oil to be used - HPL Euro PCO 5W30 - in my car and most of the responses were not to take it out that long. So I ask again with the added information of using the specific HPL Euro 5W30, in a low mileage (30K approx) K24 with zero issues, would jumping right into a 10K mile OCI be advisable? 10K miles is my annual driving pattern so this would equate to an annual OCI service for me. I'm moving through my second short OCI with VRP 5W30 (just because....) currently and am planning for the next step with this question.

*Yes, I realize this is "overkill" for my naturally aspirated port injection low horsepower (201) daily, but I like doing business with an American company that contributes here even if my dollars are not totally maximized with a ROI.

 

[Jetronic]

on a low mileage engine, with 2 VRP oci I would say yes.

 

[Nessism1]

What % of City vs. Highway? Just me, personal bias, but I'd only do 10k if the skew is heavily highway.

 

[JimPghPA]

K24 are in general a great engine, but they are known to have a startup rattle for only second or two when something is going on in the valve-train drive system. Sometimes it's the variable drive hydraulic systems consisting of the round section between the timing-chain sprocket and the cam shaft. Many believe it is because the spring in the small locking pin/piston looses strength with age. There are YouTube videos of how to replace or stretch that spring without tearing down that engine much. And this same noise can be caused by the hydraulic tensioner having problems as it ages. There are YT videos about changing that also. There's a small access door that makes replacing that tensioner an easy job instead of having to tear down the front of that engine. And there are at least two companies that sell an upgrade of that hydraulic cam chain tensioner, normally used when upgrading the valvesprings with stronger springs to enable higher revs without valve float.

It's possable that both these problems are related to varnish building up on the hydraulic activated parts within those parts.

I heard that short rattle only a few times with the K24 in my 2016 CRV EX with 42,908 miles on it, and it only does it when it has been sitting unused in cold weather and it's near the end of it's oil change interval. So somehow oil quality is related somewhat. It's on its 5th OC of PUP and it does not make that noise as often as it use to. I drive about 4,800 miles per year, and change the oil and filter when the OLM says 20%, which is about 3,500 miles.

I'm thinking of running 4 OC of VRP and maybe staying with VRP. But PUP is suppose to also clean well. And for an unmodified K24 rated at 185 hp it sure has a heck of a lot of power when climbing up long hills in S mode when fully warmed up, and runs extremely smooth.

Cammyfive79, because of the 2 cam chain systems known to have issues with K24 engines, if it were mine I would stay with short OCI with VRP for at least 4 OCI and probably stay with an oil known to clean and short OC even after that.

Also, consider installing a Valve-O-Max oil drain valve. I put a Fumoto on mine but how the angle of the drain of it ends up pointing is a random thing based on how the threads start on the oil drain plug hole. Also I had to grind off a corner of an exhaust flange to allow it to turn when installing. If I had to do it again, I would use Valve-O-Max.

 

[cammyfive79]

What % of City vs. Highway? Just me, personal bias, but I'd only do 10k if the skew is heavily highway.

70ish% highway trips of at least 30 min and drive to the office once or twice a week of 8 miles one way with some stoplights but semi-consistent 45-55mph. Shell 93 octane only....if that makes any difference.

 

[cammyfive79]

K24 are in general a great engine, but they are known to have a startup rattle for only second or two when something is going on in the valve-train drive system. Sometimes it's the variable drive hydraulic systems consisting of the round section between the timing-chain sprocket and the cam shaft. Many believe it is because the spring in the small locking pin/piston looses strength with age. There are YouTube videos of how to replace or stretch that spring without tearing down that engine much. And this same noise can be caused by the hydraulic tensioner having problems as it ages. There's a small access door that makes replacing that tensioner an easy job instead of having to tear down the front of that engine. And there are at least two companies that sell an upgrade of that hydraulic cam chain tensioner, normally used when upgrading the valvesprings with stronger springs to enable higher revs without valve float.

It's possable that both these problems are related to varnish building up on the hydraulic activated parts within those parts.

I heard that short rattle only a few times with the K24 in my 2016 CRV EX with 42,908 miles on it, and it only does it when it has been sitting unused in cold weather and it's near the end of it's oil change interval. So somehow oil quality is related somewhat. It's on its 5th OC of PUP and it does not make that noise as often as it use to. I drive about 4,800 miles per year, and change the oil and filter when the OLM says 20%, which is about 3,500 miles.

I'm thinking of running 4 OC of VRP and maybe staying with VRP. But PUP is suppose to also clean well. And for an unmodified K24 rated at 185 hp it sure has a heck of a lot of power when climbing up long hills in S mode when fully warmed up, and runs extremely smooth.

Cammyfive79, because of the 2 cam chain systems known to have issues with K24 engines, if it were mine I would stay with short OCI with VRP for at least 4 OCI and probably stay with an oil known to clean and short OC even after that.

Also, consider installing a Valve-O-Max oil drain valve. I put a Fumoto on mine but how the angle of the drain of it ends up pointing is a random thing based on how the threads start on the oil drain plug hole. Also I had to grind off a corner of an exhaust flange to allow it to turn when installing. If I had to do it again, I would use Valve-O-Max.

Interesting info! This is my 3rd CU2 platform TSX - first was a 2010 6mt I loved and traded at about 95k miles, 2nd was my wife's car of a 2014 auto just like this one that was totaled in 2020, and now this one.

This car was a one owner trade in where I work and was rarely driven (25K miles in 10 years). It had all dealer servicing around 6-7K miles but that time was 2-3 years....thus my intuition to run VRP (first short 2K run was with a quart of HPL EC30) at least for 2 OCIs. I don't drive it as hard as I used to when I was a young guy but I do the once a week or so full throttle highway on ramp merge.

Back in 2012 when I got my 2010, I used PUP as it was the hot darling of the forums. I would much prefer to use HPL for the main reason of supporting a good company/forum sponsor.....even if I do cut the drain intervals comically short for that oil.

 

[JimPghPA]

70ish% highway trips of at least 30 min and drive to the office once or twice a week of 8 miles one way with some stoplights but semi-consistent 45-55mph. Shell 93 octane only....if that makes any difference.

I have been using RedLine SI-1 fuel system cleaner in mine since I bought it in Feb. of 2020 with 19,877 miles on it. A few times I ran about 3/4 bottle per tank, but I always add the maintance dose of 4.45 mL per gallon just before each fill. I use trip B to track the miles and mpg and divide to figure out gallons used, and multiply times 4.45 to figure out how many mL to add to the tank just before filling each time. I use a 100 mL graduated translucent white plastic cylinder I bought from McMaster-Carr to measure the SI-1 with. Store it upside down in several plastic bags, and discard the inner bag often, and wear disposable gloves. It's messy if it gets on your hands.

Lake Speed Jr. said fuel system cleaner is the only additive you should ever use.

RedLine use to recommend 4.45 mL per gallon maintance dose on the bottle. I phoned them when they removed that from the bottle and asked, and they said they still recommend 4.45 mL per US gallon maintance dose.

My engine probably has amazingly clean injectors. It sure runs very well.

 

[Kozman011]

Well, my 2006 TSX is at 350K as we speak. Even the crappy Honda auto is working fine. It's my work daily driver. I fed that thing up to about 100K, Castrol 0w30, and since then I've ran everything in it, always something synthetic. I've never gone out to 10K on it, but I probably could have. NOW it'll give up the ghost. Lol!!!

 

[cammyfive79]

I can't recall what the OLM indicated as far as mileage intervals in my last 2; I might go by that for the initial HPL fill and go from there.

 

[Spring Break '92]

K24 are in general a great engine, but they are known to have a startup rattle for only second or two when something is going on in the valve-train drive system.

I know quite a lot about this and have been working with a company in Canada that makes the replacement springs for the actuators. It's a deep rabbit hole, with multiple causes and fixes that can end up being one or any combination of them. I have even seen the rattle end up being a timing chain stretched so very little that it appeared to be the same effective length as a brand new OE Honda timing chain, but it still solved the issue. In that case, the rattle was the chain scraping across the rearmost upper chain guide.

 

[Titan]

K24 are in general a great engine, but they are known to have a startup rattle for only second or two when something is going on in the valve-train drive system. Sometimes it's the variable drive hydraulic systems consisting of the round section between the timing-chain sprocket and the cam shaft. Many believe it is because the spring in the small locking pin/piston looses strength with age. There are YouTube videos of how to replace or stretch that spring without tearing down that engine much. And this same noise can be caused by the hydraulic tensioner having problems as it ages. There are YT videos about changing that also. There's a small access door that makes replacing that tensioner an easy job instead of having to tear down the front of that engine. And there are at least two companies that sell an upgrade of that hydraulic cam chain tensioner, normally used when upgrading the valvesprings with stronger springs to enable higher revs without valve float.

My 2014 K24 had the start-up rattle, it was the tensioner spring. Replaced it over 10,000 miles ago and it's still quiet as can be. No varnish seen anywhere, and when I replaced the valve cover gasket, it's VERY clean in the valvetrain. Always went by the MM and changed oil at 10-15% notice, which was between 7500-10,000 miles. PP and Mobil 1 in 0w20 form used most of the time. Did run HPL no VII once OCI, and that stopped/slowed the slight oil burning (which was about 1 quart per OCI...I like to keep the oil at the F mark). Put Valvoline Restore and Protect in it, and it no longer seems to be burning oil.

And, yes, I'd run HPL in that car 10,000 mile OCI's right off the bat if you'd like.