It would be cheaper, but I think the rust is setting in. I need to pull all the stupid plastic bits off and inspect what lurks underneath--this has covers over the rockers and who knows what lurks. Every bushing in the suspension is pounded out I think, as it wears tires funny despite recent alignments, and in the end, it took 17 years to rack up 160k by my MIL who lived 1 mile from work. Trans still works great... today...
K24 and 10k OCIs
- Thread starter cammyfive79
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- Jun 30, 2023
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Does anyone have recommendations for general preventative maintenance items for the K24?
I have a 2005 CRV with 320,000km. No issues to speak of at this time but I’d like to keep it going for the long haul.
I have a 2005 CRV with 320,000km. No issues to speak of at this time but I’d like to keep it going for the long haul.
That's an incredible amount of lobe wear. Mine were pretty worn when I had the valve cover off at 666k miles, but not that bad. Some batches of K24 cams had issues with the hardness of the lobes. I had the valves adjusted on mine even with the lobe wear, and hope to run it as long as I can. It hasn't affected the driveability yet.
Here's mine if you're curious:
Valve adjustments is priority every 80-100k miles. Change fluids regularly and if you haven't you may want to change the vtec screen at the solenoid and behind the power steering pump. Change the diff fluid with only Honda Dual pump II fluid.
I think I read it was either just for 2003, or it was mostly just 2003. Something like that it. Maybe later on we'll check it again, son seems to like the car, so there is some value in making it last longer.
I should be in possession of a 2007 CRV soon. 140k miles roughly. needs front end work but otherwise engine and transmission seem to be in good shape. will have the assessment from my preferred mechanic next week. excited to have one of these engines!
- Joined
- Jun 30, 2023
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Most people that have changed their oil at 5K miles and/or used synthetic don't usually need them. There are two, the other one is for the VTC actuator oil drain. If you are in there checking you may as well just replace them for as much work as they take to remove, they leak sooner or later.
I absolutely would change the drive belt. I actually had mine on for 206K miles and it still looked good, but that was completely good fortune. It was on me for not doing it 100K miles sooner. I got lucky.
Someone else above asked about maintenance items. Full synthetic and ditch the 0W20, spark plugs, MAF cleaning, new timing chain tensioner, and valve adjustment every 100K miles. OEM Honda ATF and OEM Honda air filter every 25K miles/year. I would change oil between the 50% and 25% reading on the MM if you go by that. OEM Honda oil filters are nothing special, in my opinion they are way overrated. Make sure you buy genuine good aftermarket iridium spark plugs, there are fakes out there.
This one makes 3 if you can get it out without breaking. Mine has a minor oil weep, tried pulling it out but didn't want to break it. I left it as it isn't that bad, it is just a simple oring but man is it stuck
Supton - definitely take a peek behind the plastic before you decide to put money in your CRV. My 2006 looked great underneath (thanks fluid film) and outside, but when I opened the cladding, the body was rotted through. It took a lot of construction adhesive to get it back on!
At about 200k I opened the valve cover to adjust the valves and all were in tolerance except one was a just a tiny bit tight. I drove a lot of highway miles, so 10k OCIs were like every 8-10 weeks. I went from 0w-20 Amsoil OE to 5w-30 Amsoil OE and the engine stayed nice and clean. Rarely needed any make-up oil between changes, but the level would drop a little. Drove it daily to 303k miles.
I went through brakes like every 6 months. And a barrage of other issues: bushings, exhaust, catalytic converter, electric windows and switches, starter, alternator, battery and cables, etc.
Gave it to my niece last year and had a pile of trouble with the power steering, which killed the alternator and various other bits. I fixed it all and she traded it in for a new Civic. Frankly, I'm glad its gone.
At about 200k I opened the valve cover to adjust the valves and all were in tolerance except one was a just a tiny bit tight. I drove a lot of highway miles, so 10k OCIs were like every 8-10 weeks. I went from 0w-20 Amsoil OE to 5w-30 Amsoil OE and the engine stayed nice and clean. Rarely needed any make-up oil between changes, but the level would drop a little. Drove it daily to 303k miles.
I went through brakes like every 6 months. And a barrage of other issues: bushings, exhaust, catalytic converter, electric windows and switches, starter, alternator, battery and cables, etc.
Gave it to my niece last year and had a pile of trouble with the power steering, which killed the alternator and various other bits. I fixed it all and she traded it in for a new Civic. Frankly, I'm glad its gone.
I ran Mobil 1 0/40 in mine, never an issue inside. OCI 5k. Had 5sp manual and saw a lot of highway driving with an avg 90 cruising speeds which is at 3500 rpm with a manual
I had been a Dw-1 only since I bought my Element but this time I went with Valvoline MV Import syn ATF. No difference so far in shifts, will do 2 more after about 1k miles. I wanted a synthetic, V MV Import has ATF Z1 spec and at $20/gal it can't be beat. My Element was also ATF Z1 spec when new
Im at almost 400,000 miles and my consumption isnt too bad with 5w30 synthetic. If i get it over 90mph or 5K it will consume. New regiment of 5-6k oci and oil and filter at o%. With intake, exhaust, midpipe, etc fun to hear the Borla rumble still after 4 yrs.
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