K24 and 10k OCIs

[50yr Street Mech]

Gotta chime in on this one. 13' CRV AWD EXL K24 / 615,920k / 0W20 / 3k OCI. Was burnin some oil in the 300's. EPR a few times cleaned that up. Gotta go with Critic on this one. Freqent OCI's are the key to longevity in these amazing little engines. A few valve adjustments over the years,,,,and doesn't use a drop of oil. No special oil , but sometimes use OE filters when I have them in the garage ( caught on sale or something) Car is in NY. Temp avg 20-90 degrees. Daily driver. If you plan on keepin it, I would refrain from the 10k OCI interval. THAT is it's kryptonite.

 

[Spring Break '92]

Gotta chime in on this one. 13' CRV AWD EXL K24 / 615,920k / 0W20 / 3k OCI.

When I read one of your prior posts, I thought you typed 614,9xx as a typo. WOW, that gives me some hope. I have the same exact CRV but one year older than yours and my goal is 1 million miles. I have 287K currently. So tell us, have you replaced anything related to the VTC/i-VTEC system or any of the timing components in the time you have had yours.

 

[50yr Street Mech]

Yes, one VTC with that annoying cold start...like below 40 degrees...and the usual...starter, coolant bypass under the intake, alternator, tranny at 4yrs-70k, serpentine belts, 1 water pump, batteries, brakes, calipers, radiator fan motor. All odds and ends at different times. The usual wear and tear stuff.,,leaky oil pressure sensor. I don't know about 1 million miles. Mine is kinda noisy at 614k...and that's pushin it way beyond it's limits. Not terrible noisy. No piston rappin. Just isn't as quiet as it use to be. Cats went bad at 610,000....Matter of fact, I was searchin the web for used K24Z6's. I think I'm on borrowed time and can't afford a new car. There are soooooo many to choose from. $ 1500-2100 dollars, then have my local shop dump it in. Seen one with 70k on it for $1800. Remanufactured are $ 3800. No thank you. The used ones come with a one year warranty.

 

[supton]

And cam chains get less lube if the oil is low, because they dip into the oil. So its a good idea to keep it near full on the dip-stick.

Do they? I thought the level at rest was below the chain level, and that dragging a chain through oil would have a significant drag.

Not saying you're wrong--I honestly don't know, but am curious if this is true. I thought the chain was oiled via squirters or controlled leakage around bearings.

 

[JimPghPA]

Do they? I thought the level at rest was below the chain level, and that dragging a chain through oil would have a significant drag.

Not saying you're wrong--I honestly don't know, but am curious if this is true. I thought the chain was oiled via squirters or controlled leakage around bearings.

I'll admit its hear say, as I saw someone say that once in a yt video, and I can't even rember who. I rember them saying because the chain is lubed by dipping into oil, when these engines are consistently ran with low oil, the chain wears out faster.

I never saw a teardown of K24 in person.

I never saw any oil squart nozzles aimed at cam chains. Just piston and cylinders.

I'm fairly certain the lower chain gets well into the oil, maybe it slings oil as it travels over the crank sprocket? And that helps lube the cam chain.

 

[Carlostrece]

I'm currently dealing with trying to solve massive oil consumption in my neighbor's K24 engine. While I don't yet have it fully diagnosed (work in progress), I strongly suspect a 10K OCI caused it. It was driven 30/70 city/highway (by 1st owner when oil consumption started).

That's ^ a fact correction of city/highway miles proportion.

I suggest:
3500K miles OCI for city driving (my neighbor's K24)
5000K miles OCI for mixed city/highway driving (@cammyfive79 OP)
7000K miles OCI for highway driving.

I should clarify one seemingly contradictory thing I said about OCI. It's not really contradictory, but I didn't explain the history well enough.

I recently talked with my neighbor's dad who was the prior owner of her CR-V.

He used to drive it about 30/70 city/highway with 10K OCI. He said it developed an oil consumption of 1 qt of 5w20 every 300 miles while he owned it. A 10K OCI was inadequate for a mix of city/highway, even with it being mostly highway.

His daughter (my neighbor) drives 90/10 city/highway and theoretically stayed on 10K OCI, but in reality I don't think she even had an OCI. She wasn't keeping track of the miles nor even the oil level. No one knows what her OCI was (or if she ever changed the oil).

That's why I want to put her on a 3500K miles OCI from now on using 5w30 VRP. I would do that for any car that drives mostly city miles.

 

[JimPghPA]

Stuck piston rings, over time will result in cylinder wear, especially on the thrust side, once that happens, the battle to get it back to low oil consumption is lost, no matter what you do. And the next step in the degrading end of life of that engine is low compression, and eventually compression so low it won't start on cold days.


Unfortunately K24 engines do not have excess material allowing it to be bored to a clean round cylinder. So then its time to replace or junk it.

 

[Carlostrece]

Stuck piston rings, over time will result in cylinder wear, especially on the thrust side, once that happens, the battle to get it back to low oil consumption is lost, no matter what you do.

I partially agree, but 5w30 helps with that situation. 5w40 even moreso.

 

[Patrick0525]

HOT berryman B12 piston soak, 30 minute 2k rpm BG EPR flush. then HPL EC30 mixed with VRP for 5k miles. took my wife’s accord from 1qt/500miles to running 12k without burning a drop of HPL PCEO 5w-40.

we only buy shell 87 octane gasoline in this house.

@BrendanC
What is ur recipe with details?
Thanks

 

[BrendanC]

@BrendanC
What is ur recipe with details?
Thanks

drive the car around for a while to get it good and hot, pull the spark plugs and pour berryman b12 in them (be careful the fumes are very strong and will burn you so wear gloves) and let soak for an hour turning the engine over by the power steering pulley every few minutes.

dump BG EPR in the oil fill and start, run at 2-2.5k rpm for 30-45 minutes then drain oil and let drain for a while.

dump .8 of a quart (i just did 1 quart) of HPL EC30 in then fill the rest with Valvoline R&P 5w-30 and new filter. run for 5k miles topping up with R&P as needed.

second EPR flush just like the first

i chose t go with HPL oils for the future. helps continue cleaning and supports extended intervals. would stay with Valvoline R&P otherwise.

 

[Spring Break '92]

dump BG EPR in the oil fill and start, run at 2-2.5k rpm for 30-45 minutes then drain oil and let drain for a while.

I did 15 minutes recently before my oil change in an already very clean engine, from what I can tell with the valve cover off, anyway. In what situation would you want to go as long as 30-45 minutes? I am hoping the 15 minutes I used EPR was enough.

 

[rondhol]

10k miles interval is fine with any fully synthetic oil (group III or PAO), but only if you do not live in harsh weather or mountainous regions.
Condensation of water and fuel dilution from short trips will make the oil live shorter. Especielly water contamination that makes the oil more acidic and sludging. High temp and oxidation from high rpm in climbing roads cause varnishes and caked piston rings.

 

[BrendanC]

I did 15 minutes recently before my oil change in an already very clean engine, from what I can tell with the valve cover off, anyway. In what situation would you want to go as long as 30-45 minutes? I am hoping the 15 minutes I used EPR was enough.

any time i use EPR i go atleast 30 minutes. allows the engine oil to get very hot. i actually unplug one of my radiator fans on all my vehicles/my friends vehicles to make sure everything runs as hot as it can “safely”.

 

[Patrick0525]

drive the car around for a while to get it good and hot, pull the spark plugs and pour berryman b12 in them (be careful the fumes are very strong and will burn you so wear gloves) and let soak for an hour turning the engine over by the power steering pulley every few minutes.

dump BG EPR in the oil fill and start, run at 2-2.5k rpm for 30-45 minutes then drain oil and let drain for a while.

dump .8 of a quart (i just did 1 quart) of HPL EC30 in then fill the rest with Valvoline R&P 5w-30 and new filter. run for 5k miles topping up with R&P as needed.

second EPR flush just like the first

i chose t go with HPL oils for the future. helps continue cleaning and supports extended intervals. would stay with Valvoline R&P otherwise.

Thank u very much.

 

[BrendanC]

Thank u very much.

of course. i will say this only worked because her car doesn’t have mechanical issues causing oil burning. my accord has bad valve seals (400k+ miles) and burns oil after all of those steps.

 

[trd1zz]

Go look at the worn exhaust cam lobes in this thread. I'd be doing 5k max.

C

Thread 'K24 Valvetrain Photos @ 118,000 miles'

Tuesday at 1:33 PM

I had the first valve adjustment done on our trusty 2007 K24 Accord (purchased new) yesterday. Mileage is 190,000 kms (118,000 miles). The mechanic told me that the intake valves were mostly ok, but the exhaust valves were a bit tight. It runs a bit smoother now (especially cold) and also feels a tad more responsive.
I haven't done a valve adjustment in decades (Honda motorcycles), so I thought better to have my mechanic do this one. He snapped these photos for me. Had a brake fluid flush done as well.
Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE since 50k kms. Mobil 1 5W-20 then a few 0W-20 OCI's before 50k kms...

• carviewsonic
• Replies: 35
• Forum: Mechanical/Maintenance Forum

• 
• 
• 

 

[Spring Break '92]

Go look at the worn exhaust cam lobes in this thread. I'd be doing 5k max.

C

Thread 'K24 Valvetrain Photos @ 118,000 miles'

Tuesday at 1:33 PM

I had the first valve adjustment done on our trusty 2007 K24 Accord (purchased new) yesterday. Mileage is 190,000 kms (118,000 miles). The mechanic told me that the intake valves were mostly ok, but the exhaust valves were a bit tight. It runs a bit smoother now (especially cold) and also feels a tad more responsive.
I haven't done a valve adjustment in decades (Honda motorcycles), so I thought better to have my mechanic do this one. He snapped these photos for me. Had a brake fluid flush done as well.
Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE since 50k kms. Mobil 1 5W-20 then a few 0W-20 OCI's before 50k kms...

• carviewsonic
• Replies: 35
• Forum: Mechanical/Maintenance Forum

• 
• 
• 

From what I understand, it's only a certain range of years that the exhaust cam lobes were affected and wore prematurely this way. My 2012 K24 has no such wear, and the majority of its life was lived with 7500-9500 mile oil changes with 0W20.

 

[JimPghPA]

From what I understand, it's only a certain range of years that the exhaust cam lobes were affected and wore prematurely this way. My 2012 K24 has no such wear, and the majority of its life was lived with 7500-9500 mile oil changes with 0W20.

Was that mostly highway?

If so, its misleading not to include that, as someone who drives harsher conditions may think they also can run that far on their oc.

But theres always going to be people who only read partially what's being done, and then incorrectly apply part of something.

If someone does 10k oc with top tier oil and filter and all highway, someone will only see the 10k part, and run the cheapest low quality oil and filter for 10k oc of city short trips and not top off the oil when its low, and wonder why their engine stopped running.

 

[BrendanC]

Go look at the worn exhaust cam lobes in this thread. I'd be doing 5k max.

C

Thread 'K24 Valvetrain Photos @ 118,000 miles'

Tuesday at 1:33 PM

I had the first valve adjustment done on our trusty 2007 K24 Accord (purchased new) yesterday. Mileage is 190,000 kms (118,000 miles). The mechanic told me that the intake valves were mostly ok, but the exhaust valves were a bit tight. It runs a bit smoother now (especially cold) and also feels a tad more responsive.
I haven't done a valve adjustment in decades (Honda motorcycles), so I thought better to have my mechanic do this one. He snapped these photos for me. Had a brake fluid flush done as well.
Mobil 1 0W-30 AFE since 50k kms. Mobil 1 5W-20 then a few 0W-20 OCI's before 50k kms...

• carviewsonic
• Replies: 35
• Forum: Mechanical/Maintenance Forum

• 
• 
• 

Was that mostly highway?

If so, its misleading not to include that, as someone who drives harsher conditions may think they also can run that far on their oc.

But theres always going to be people who only read partially what's being done, and then incorrectly apply part of something.

If someone does 10k oc with top tier oil and filter and all highway, someone will only see the 10k part, and run the cheapest low quality oil and filter for 10k oc of city short trips and not top off the oil when its low, and wonder why their engine stopped running.

high quality oil as in HPL/amsoil has shown it can go far greater than 10k miles in harsh conditions. i run it to 12k in industrial fleet service. trucks idle all day in houston heat. my wife’s accord is now on its 3rd HPL interval. stretched this one to 15k miles. will do a UOA at 15k.

 

[Spring Break '92]

Was that mostly highway?

75-80% highway, so I suppose so. However, it's generally the first years of the K24 up until around 2010, so mine is not affected regardless.