K&N Premium Filter is nothing more than a Supertech

It happens. I ordered a few BND Automotive special oil filters to cut on here years ago and they were WIX with stick on labels.
The real irritation was I was doing the forum a service and then you got attacked for it.
Anything new ticked off the masses here. Why? No idea ..
 
when a difference doesn't make a difference, buy the cheapest one on the shelf.

This is why I have a Supertech white can oil filter on my car presently. It's actually a very good filter....

Based on what this post says, I don't think I'll buy another K&N Select (the one I bought did NOT have the Nut driver design. And it was a pretty good one. But, guess what, Fram XG3600 now and it costs the same.)

Sure looked slick, though. The power of marketing.

Oh, and count me in on the anti-Project Farm crowd, as well.

Was quoted

Project Farm

So

BITOG Disclaimer: The Project Farm channel states that its videos are for entertainment purposes only. Project Farm does not perform ASTM tests, nor apply industry acknowledged methods and criteria, and therefore BITOG cannot endorse the results of tests of any lubricant or filter or similar product as seen on the Project Farm channel, and cautions readers giving credence to such entertainment information.
 
This is why I have a Supertech white can oil filter on my car presently. It's actually a very good filter....
I learned a long time ago that you can't judge a book by its cover , so unless you have the special test equipment to test for particle count,flow, bypass settings etc, you are better off just buying the cheapest stuff on the shelf and replacing it when book calls for it for than going thru any in depth analysis of either the oil or the filter. :)
 
I learned a long time ago that you can't judge a book by its cover , so unless you have the special test equipment to test for particle count,flow, bypass settings etc, you are better off just buying the cheapest stuff on the shelf and replacing it when book calls for it for than going thru any in depth analysis of either the oil or the filter. :)
Dude. This is BITOG. Come on now...ahhaahah
 
I learned a long time ago that you can't judge a book by its cover , so unless you have the special test equipment to test for particle count,flow, bypass settings etc, you are better off just buying the cheapest stuff on the shelf and replacing it when book calls for it for than going thru any in depth analysis of either the oil or the filter. :)
Or you could buy filters that have an ISO 4548-12 rating and compare them ... along with C&P build and durability info gleaned in this forum. Of course, it someone doesn't care about efficiency, then just slap anything on that won't (maybe) blow-up the engine. 😄
 
Or you could buy filters that have an ISO 4548-12 rating and compare them ... along with C&P build and durability info gleaned in this forum. Of course, it someone doesn't care about efficiency, then just slap anything on that won't (maybe) blow-up the engine. 😄
most of the info gleaned from this forum revolves around the looks of the filter. :) For myself, after spending 40+ year working in a fleet where whatever low bid or whatever is cheapest is the rule, I stick by that method too.

I will admit when I was younger and less experienced I actually thought branding and marketing claims etc made a difference but I don't anymore.
 
I'm probably going to switch over to SuperTech filters for most applications. It's hard to beat them for the price, are they made by Champ labs? The construction seems pretty good (especially where you can find the MP version). I've honestly never used Champs in the past simply because the stores local to me never sold them.

I did notice that some walmarts only carry the ST version of some sized filters and not the MP, but I can order those online if needed. I don't mind the Frams, but the last couple I've grabbed it took a minute to find one with a silicone ADBV. I'd be willing to try a Purolator Classic, but out of the few I have picked up, most of them did not have the silicone ADBV in the size filter I needed.
 
most of the info gleaned from this forum revolves around the looks of the filter. :) For myself, after spending 40+ year working in a fleet where whatever low bid or whatever is cheapest is the rule, I stick by that method too.

I will admit when I was younger and less experienced I actually thought branding and marketing claims etc made a difference but I don't anymore.
I never buy into the marketing, but it is more about what I can get bang for buck. In the case of filters, I like a silicone ADBV due to our climate, as well as filters that I can easily obtain for last minute small engines that come in for service.

I'll be the first to claim I don't think running a cheap "tech" spec'd filter vs. a high end expensive filter would make any difference in measurable engine wear for the life of a vehicle in most applications, but it does give me the warm and fuzzy feeling knowing it is constructed well. I've cut open a few filters with torn media. :oops:
 
I never buy into the marketing, but it is more about what I can get bang for buck. In the case of filters, I like a silicone ADBV due to our climate, as well as filters that I can easily obtain for last minute small engines that come in for service.

I'll be the first to claim I don't think running a cheap "tech" spec'd filter vs. a high end expensive filter would make any difference in measurable engine wear for the life of a vehicle in most applications, but it does give me the warm and fuzzy feeling knowing it is constructed well. I've cut open a few filters with torn media. :oops:
yeah, I usually get some filters from Rock Auto, end up generally as a name brand bought in bulk at a low price... never worried what they used inside the filter, figure its going in the trash anywhere from 6 months to a year later.. by cheap it usually is Bosch, Champ, Hastings etc

I
 
most of the info gleaned from this forum revolves around the looks of the filter. :) For myself, after spending 40+ year working in a fleet where whatever low bid or whatever is cheapest is the rule, I stick by that method too.

I will admit when I was younger and less experienced I actually thought branding and marketing claims etc made a difference but I don't anymore.
Visually looking at the guts of a used cut open oil filter tells a lot about the build quality and durability during use. Example of how that's important is when what's considered a great filter in efficiency and has a good brand name reputation shows repeated media failure from use. Who would keep using those filters.

The ISO performance info is important to those who care about filtering performance and holding capacity. Only by combining that and the visual post use inspection is the only way to know all aspects of the filter.

Did every filter in that fleet get cut open for inspection after use? If not, you have no idea if they failed or not during use.
 
Not everyone has the budget to constantly rebuild an engine after a short amount of hours on the engine.
only people I know who constantly rebuild engine's are in racing

I would say for the most part, everybody else just drives it until they get sick of it or a major repair is more costly than getting into another car
 
only people I know who constantly rebuild engine's are in racing

I would say for the most part, everybody else just drives it until they get sick of it or a major repair is more costly than getting into another car
That's why they are used in racing. The engine needs to last as long to at minimum finish the race, as you can't score points if you don't finish.
 
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