Just put a pint of MMO in the crankcase of the 528

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Originally Posted By: nleksan
I was not saying that the MMO or anything else added caused timing issues, but that the timing issues resulted I significant lifter tick, which is what the PO was trying to address.

The MMO was what was used most often/frequently, and was used the most recently prior to selling it to me; it was the only thing run in the crank AND gasoline. That, coupled with the unmistakable smell of MMO being present in the gunk everywhere in the head (and that gunk being the same consistency throughout), suggests to me that there was some reaction between MMO and a prior additive, between MMO and the oil/gas, or it is not always safe for long term use.

AGAIN, I am just sharing an anecdote. I use various additives that seem to me to work, and I avoid the vast majority. While I personally think that MMO is one of the products which here on BITOG gets way too much praise with almost no objective data to support its use, I admit that I keep a few jugs of it around because there are times (always in small engines, 2-stroke, or older/American engines) that it seems to make it run just a bit better.
Coincidentally, I have had great results using Seafoam in some known sludge-fest engines, especially the Toyota 5SFE, in combination with RP or PU/PP oil. It also cleaned the throttle body plate/housing, PCV system, and intake manifold. Yet, many people here don't like it.

Seeing as there's very little hard science in any of this, in fact it's mostly psychology (when we expect to see or feel a difference, especially if we are invested in the outcome, we see a difference whether it's there or not), I think we can agree that MOST OF THE TIME, there is LITTLE TO NO BENEFIT from anything outside the best possible oil combined with the best possible gasoline...


IMO you have given a fair and balanced account and it seems MMO was the primary additive used.

Of course this doesn't mean MMO caused the problem. It could have been another additives fault for being there at the same time as MMO.

But of course this just underlines the manufacturers reason to void warranties if additives are used. You don't know what will happen when you use additives. Engines and engine oils were not designed or tested with them.

Be careful about being fair and balanced about MMO though. There are a lot of people who get very defensive and consider any doubt a form of attack.
 
This is what Labnerd, a poster over on f150online forums says. He works in tribology r&d in Texas:

MMO: Marvel Mystery oil is a mostly pale oil base meaning it's a light 20 visc. oil. The additives as shown in spectroscopy aren't much. That's not to say there isn't anything else there, just doesn't show up in analysis. If you run it as an injector cleaner in an ULSD diesel, expect damage to be done to the engine from sulfurs in the mix. The same sulfurs will be in your gas engine only the combustion process will turn some of it into sulfuric acid. Your oils base (mostly calcium) should handle the extra acids but it's not something I would use on a regular basis. The best injector cleaners and carbon removers are Stoddard Solvent based. This is the base for Techron and BG-44 cleaners. And here's another issue, what about the cats? We already know cat life is short with an engine that burns oil. So you add oil (MMO) to the gas and not expect shorter cat life? Use at your own risk but I'd use some of the proven cleaners/ carbon removers that are cat friendly before trying something that right off says it will damage an expensive piece of emissions equipment.
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
This is what Labnerd, a poster over on f150online forums says. He works in tribology r&d in Texas:

MMO: Marvel Mystery oil is a mostly pale oil base meaning it's a light 20 visc. oil. The additives as shown in spectroscopy aren't much. That's not to say there isn't anything else there, just doesn't show up in analysis. If you run it as an injector cleaner in an ULSD diesel, expect damage to be done to the engine from sulfurs in the mix. The same sulfurs will be in your gas engine only the combustion process will turn some of it into sulfuric acid. Your oils base (mostly calcium) should handle the extra acids but it's not something I would use on a regular basis. The best injector cleaners and carbon removers are Stoddard Solvent based. This is the base for Techron and BG-44 cleaners. And here's another issue, what about the cats? We already know cat life is short with an engine that burns oil. So you add oil (MMO) to the gas and not expect shorter cat life? Use at your own risk but I'd use some of the proven cleaners/ carbon removers that are cat friendly before trying something that right off says it will damage an expensive piece of emissions equipment.


Okay, got that.

But according to the FAA

Quote:
The contents of Marvel Mystery Oil were 74 percent mineral oil, 25 percent Stoddard solvent, and 1 percent lard.


So maybe if you have injectors, you should reach for the MMO can that says 'contains Stoddard Solvent'?

Where is Molakule? We need you!
 
Is it the SS itself or its use as a base that is important? As well as SS, Techron contains PEA. According to your link, MMO contains lard and mineral oil as well as SS.

Is lard as effective as PEA for cleaning injectors and carbon??
 
Originally Posted By: TrevorS
Is it the SS itself or its use as a base that is important? As well as SS, Techron contains PEA. According to your link, MMO contains lard and mineral oil as well as SS.

Is lard as effective as PEA for cleaning injectors and carbon??


As I read Labnerd's analysis, it's the Stoddard Solvent that does the cleaning. That would have been my guess as well.

Lard is probably a thickener... that's what it's used for in automotive grease. But at 1%, it probably doesn't matter that much.
 
Originally Posted By: dave5358


As I read Labnerd's analysis, it's the Stoddard Solvent that does the cleaning. That would have been my guess as well.

Lard is probably a thickener... that's what it's used for in automotive grease. But at 1%, it probably doesn't matter that much.


Hi Dave-

I see you mentioned Larnerd's analysis, I remembered I had book marked it a long time ago so I just dug it up. He claimed it was a light 20 visc. oil which is incorrect. It's straight a 5 grade oil according to Rich Kelly over at Turtle wax the makers of the product. It would be easy enough to verify. Here's a list of its contents that have been posted on Bitog many times in the past. He also said this:" The additives as shown in spectroscopy aren't much. That's not to say there isn't anything else there, just doesn't show up in analysis." Maybe this will shed some light. HTH

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint
Originally Posted By: dave5358


As I read Labnerd's analysis, it's the Stoddard Solvent that does the cleaning. That would have been my guess as well.

Lard is probably a thickener... that's what it's used for in automotive grease. But at 1%, it probably doesn't matter that much.


Hi Dave-

I see you mentioned Larnerd's analysis, I remembered I had book marked it a long time ago so I just dug it up. He claimed it was a light 20 visc. oil which is incorrect. It's straight a 5 grade oil according to Rich Kelly over at Turtle wax the makers of the product. It would be easy enough to verify. Here's a list of its contents that have been posted on Bitog many times in the past. He also said this:" The additives as shown in spectroscopy aren't much. That's not to say there isn't anything else there, just doesn't show up in analysis." Maybe this will shed some light. HTH

70% Light Aromatic Oil (Pale Oil)
- It is a Naphthenic Oil, so while it oxidizes faster than a Paraffinic oil, it does clean and dissolve sludge and carbon well and cleans up after itself from any oxidation. serves as base oil as well. [Naphthenic oils have more solvency and are more polar (they are attracted to metal more), but oxidize faster.

29% Mineral Spirits
- Cleans Varnish very well. General cleaner. Also acts as an antioxidant.

38 parts per million (ppm) Boron
- AW/EP agent, friction reducer, antioxidant

900 ppm Phosporous
- AW/EP agent

1/2% 1, 2 ortho-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

1/4% 1, 4 para-Dichlorobenzene
- EP agent as it interacts with Iron to form an Iron chloride barrier under any ZDDP or other AW additives. Also very good cleaner/solvent, and friction reducer

Oil of wintergreen - for the scent
- Not just for the cent, is also a cleaner. may aid lubricity.

Red Dye - for the color
- well this one just colors the stuff


Thanks, demarpaint.

Let me jump in with one point, which relates to Labnerd's original comment: The ingredient '29% Mineral Spirits' mentioned in this and the previous post is simply another name for Stoddard Solvent.

Stoddard Solvent seems to have many common names, including 'Mineral Spirits', 'White Spirit', 'Mineral Turpentine' (not to be confused with real Turpentine and 'Solvent Naptha' (not to be confused with real Naptha).

So, if you decide that Stoddard Solvent is what your injectors are drinking, then pass the MMO.
 
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