I've having a lil trouble removing the drain bolt

[chefwong]

INDY did a whole timing chain, etc job about a year ago. Changed the oil, etc.

I've done plenty of oil drains but for the love of god, I don't know if he decided to be evil and use red-loctite *I Kid* but I cannot get my damm drain bolt open. Tried using box wrench, nada. Tried using the hex socket in the inside of the bolt. nada. I feel like I might crack the damm block with the force I'm using.

Engines hot. I'll let her sit and cool. I highly doubt that will make a difference but we'll see...

 

[Rand]

what vehicle is the drain pan steel?

if so use an 18" breaker bar.

 

[KrisZ]

Yup, I would take out the breaker bar and use nice, smooth motion to turn the wrench. No jerks, kicks, taps or hammers.

 

[suspiciousmind]

And use only a six point socket or wrench !!

 

[donnyj08]

I would hold use a 6 point socket on a half inch drive, apply pressure and with a small (16-20oz) hammer smack the the longest point of the ratchet. The tap will pop it loose.

I've done this many times on vehicles that I've changed the oil on. A lot of quick lube shops I've seen air ratchet the plug in and this is the only way I can break it loose.

 

[ARCOgraphite]

6pt and quick kung foo impact using hammer or ??

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Yup, I would take out the breaker bar and use nice, smooth motion to turn the wrench. No jerks, kicks, taps or hammers.


Why? Wouldn't impact me better than smooth motion to remove the bolt?

 

[MaximusD]

When mine stuck, I used vise grips and a dead blow. Easy.

 

[ChrisW]

Whenever I run into one of these, usually I bust out the 1/2 drive and a six-point as others have mentioned. Also, upon removal, I find it quite evident that the crush washer was re-used many a time. Throw a new crush washer on there when you get it off, I'm sure it'll help with the next removal. If it's one of those like on my Mazda6 with the rubber gasket, I'd replace the gasket or the drain plug entirely; I've found that snug plus a 1/16 on these types works well, where as with aluminum/copper crush washers snug plus up to at most 1/4 turn but usually around an 1/8 will get 'er tight enough to not leak or vibrate loose.

 

[ARB1977]

Once you break it loose install a fumoto drain valve. Don't have to worry about drain plugs again.

 

[PhillyJoe]

Sometimes I can't even get the ones off that I put on. Since I'm not at a great position under the vehicle, I use a rubber mallet on the box wrench and it's never failed.

 

[Doog]

I use a 1/2" drive with a breaker bar and 30" cheater on the end of that...then hit it with the 1/2" 200ft lb. impact wrench.

If that doesn't work...try the 420ft. lb impact wrench...if that fails...trade it in.

 

[KrisZ]

Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Yup, I would take out the breaker bar and use nice, smooth motion to turn the wrench. No jerks, kicks, taps or hammers.


Why? Wouldn't impact me better than smooth motion to remove the bolt?


In my experience impact is great from an impact gun. If you start tugging, jerking or hammering the wrench, usually laying on the ground in an awkward position, there is a great chance of the wrench or socket to slip off and round the bolt off. You simply don't have as much control as with a nice long breaker bar.
If you have the car on a lift than you I would say those methods are more acceptable.

 

[chefwong]

Fumoto ain't happening. The way the stiffening plate is relative to the cut out of the drain hole....not going to work. Sure wish it did though

My mechanic should have known better....but who knows. Maybe he was just tired after hr 20 of the timing chain job..

 

[GSCJR]

Use an impact wrench.

 

[Doog]

Just use a 1/2" breaker bar with a 60" pipe on it...if the car flips over...stop.

 

[raffy]

I've had this happen to me a couple of times or so; try tapping hard the socket wrench with a rubber mallet (while holding it in place with your other hand, of course), preferably with a 6 point socket on the bolt. So far it's worked for me every time I've had a tight drain plug. For other stubborn bolts, a 17" or 18" breaker bar will usually do the trick.

 

[Vikas]

Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Originally Posted By: Vikas
Originally Posted By: KrisZ
Yup, I would take out the breaker bar and use nice, smooth motion to turn the wrench. No jerks, kicks, taps or hammers.


Why? Wouldn't impact me better than smooth motion to remove the bolt?


In my experience impact is great from an impact gun. If you start tugging, jerking or hammering the wrench, usually laying on the ground in an awkward position, there is a great chance of the wrench or socket to slip off and round the bolt off. You simply don't have as much control as with a nice long breaker bar.
If you have the car on a lift than you I would say those methods are more acceptable.


I think if one is going to bang on it, it is better to do it with a shorter wrench and making sure it is fitting properly.

If you decide to try impact gun, I hope you have great control over it. If you did not stop it in time, the hot oil is going to be all over your expensive gun! Given that I have three impact guns, I have thought about it but I suspect it is not a good idea.

 

[The_Eric]

Eat more Wheaties....

 

[The Critic]

Originally Posted By: Vikas

I think if one is going to bang on it, it is better to do it with a shorter wrench and making sure it is fitting properly.

If you decide to try impact gun, I hope you have great control over it. If you did not stop it in time, the hot oil is going to be all over your expensive gun! Given that I have three impact guns, I have thought about it but I suspect it is not a good idea.


One quick tap on the impact gun is all he will need to break it loose. No risk of massive oil leakage at all.