In June 2024 I changed the oil in my 2015 Tacoma V-6 using the same crush washers from the same big stash of OEM washers I've always used. I used a Husky clicker torque wrench set to 30 ft-lbs.
In Jan 2025 when I went to change the oil, the drain plug was barely tight. When I tightened the drain plug with the new crush washer, I tightened by hand, and giving a pretty hard pull on the socket.
A couple of weeks ago I had the torque wrench recalibrated. I was told it wasn't very far out of spec.
I just changed the oil again today, and the drain plug took almost no effort to remove. Just a light snap.
I have to think the problem is the crush washers. But I know they're the correct ones, and I am using the same batch. I have changed the oil in the truck for 10 years following the same steps, and have never had a problem before. The drain plug has always required a bit of a tug to loose it. I can't identify what's changed.
Any ideas? Should I re-torque in a month or so?
I just paid $75 for calibration and $10 for another bag of OEM washers. Maybe I should just cut my losses and get a Fumoto valve.
In Jan 2025 when I went to change the oil, the drain plug was barely tight. When I tightened the drain plug with the new crush washer, I tightened by hand, and giving a pretty hard pull on the socket.
A couple of weeks ago I had the torque wrench recalibrated. I was told it wasn't very far out of spec.
I just changed the oil again today, and the drain plug took almost no effort to remove. Just a light snap.
I have to think the problem is the crush washers. But I know they're the correct ones, and I am using the same batch. I have changed the oil in the truck for 10 years following the same steps, and have never had a problem before. The drain plug has always required a bit of a tug to loose it. I can't identify what's changed.
Any ideas? Should I re-torque in a month or so?
I just paid $75 for calibration and $10 for another bag of OEM washers. Maybe I should just cut my losses and get a Fumoto valve.