Is my Drain Plug Loosening?

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In June 2024 I changed the oil in my 2015 Tacoma V-6 using the same crush washers from the same big stash of OEM washers I've always used. I used a Husky clicker torque wrench set to 30 ft-lbs.

In Jan 2025 when I went to change the oil, the drain plug was barely tight. When I tightened the drain plug with the new crush washer, I tightened by hand, and giving a pretty hard pull on the socket.

A couple of weeks ago I had the torque wrench recalibrated. I was told it wasn't very far out of spec.

I just changed the oil again today, and the drain plug took almost no effort to remove. Just a light snap.

I have to think the problem is the crush washers. But I know they're the correct ones, and I am using the same batch. I have changed the oil in the truck for 10 years following the same steps, and have never had a problem before. The drain plug has always required a bit of a tug to loose it. I can't identify what's changed.

Any ideas? Should I re-torque in a month or so?

I just paid $75 for calibration and $10 for another bag of OEM washers. Maybe I should just cut my losses and get a Fumoto valve.
 
On my Mazda, Neon and Cavalier I've never used a torque wrench on the drain plug. I've always threaded the drain plug till tight, then 1/4 to 1/2 turn past that till snug.
 
In June 2024 I changed the oil in my 2015 Tacoma V-6 using the same crush washers from the same big stash of OEM washers I've always used. I used a Husky clicker torque wrench set to 30 ft-lbs.

In Jan 2025 when I went to change the oil, the drain plug was barely tight. When I tightened the drain plug with the new crush washer, I tightened by hand, and giving a pretty hard pull on the socket.

A couple of weeks ago I had the torque wrench recalibrated. I was told it wasn't very far out of spec.

I just changed the oil again today, and the drain plug took almost no effort to remove. Just a light snap.

I have to think the problem is the crush washers. But I know they're the correct ones, and I am using the same batch. I have changed the oil in the truck for 10 years following the same steps, and have never had a problem before. The drain plug has always required a bit of a tug to loose it. I can't identify what's changed.

Any ideas? Should I re-torque in a month or so?

I just paid $75 for calibration and $10 for another bag of OEM washers. Maybe I should just cut my losses and get a Fumoto valve.
Aluminum or steel pan? If aluminum and bolt being steel maybe the threads are stretched on the pan.
 

Just covered this two weeks ago!

In a nutshell, you're right, the washers are garbage. I thought mine were because they were knockoff but you have the same problem with genuine Toyota parts.
 

Just covered this two weeks ago!

In a nutshell, you're right, the washers are garbage. I thought mine were because they were knockoff but you have the same problem with genuine Toyota parts.
Interesting. Thanks. I am using the same part number and they look like the same blue washers. Supposedly they're "genuine Toyota" but who knows.

18 ft-lbs seems light, but your engine could be different. I haven't noticed any disintegration of the washer. I am going to take a Q-Tip and some white oil base paint and run a small line from the plug to the pan to see if it's moving over time.
 
Interesting. Thanks. I am using the same part number and they look like the same blue washers. Supposedly they're "genuine Toyota" but who knows.

18 ft-lbs seems light, but your engine could be different. I haven't noticed any disintegration of the washer. I am going to take a Q-Tip and some white oil base paint and run a small line from the plug to the pan to see if it's moving over time.
If you have white out - correction fluid that will also work for making a witness mark.
 
On my Mazda, Neon and Cavalier I've never used a torque wrench on the drain plug. I've always threaded the drain plug till tight, then 1/4 to 1/2 turn past that till snug.
I did it that way in January. It was still looser than normal today. I gotta think the problem is the washer, not the torque, which I've done both ways now - by feel and with a torque wrench.
 
If there were no leaks, it was oil tight. That's what's important. 30 #ft is good, I imagine I end up with a little more than that by hand.
I don't buy the idea the warshers are bad. If you wanna try 35 #ft, I won't tell anyone.
 
I had the same issue with OEM crush washers on the 4Runner. I don't use a torque wrench. Just my calibrated arm. On the next OCI it would be looser than I like.

I got tired of this and buying/replacing crush washers for every OCI. So, I went to Lowe's and bought a copper washer. With a piece of glass and 1200 grit sandpaper I did figure eights until the pattern on the washer was even. Just like I did years ago when rebuilding injectors for Detroit Diesels. Problem solved. No leaks.
 
You could put a stainless steel worm clamp on it. Position the clamp's head against the bottom of the pan. I used to do this with an old bimmer in which I installed oil temp and pressure gauges. The drain plug was the oil temp sensor.
 
Interesting that the blue Toyota washers are the suspects. I use them in between the free ToyotaCare oil changes so the ones I put on and the drain bolt I tighten gets removed by the dealer and the ones they use get removed by me, every 5k miles. I haven't noticed that the drain plug feels too loose. The dealer won't say anything 'cause they don't know I'm changing it in between since I use Toyota filters. We're done with ToyotaCare now so it will be all me going forward. I'll pay attention to this now.
 
Not to hijack the thread, but I just installed a Fumoto brass body valve on the RX350 with a blue fiber washer and the specifications called out 15 ft-lbs. I can vouch that the washer generally does not leak for 10+ years of service or back out.
 
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