Interesting dealership experience

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Originally Posted By: SVTCobra
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Couldn't believe it that your friend would not buy the car over $175.


Yep I told him that too. I won't say where he is from but his culture you always bargain down the price quite a bit.


I bet they will call him back in the morning and tell him they will take the offer.
 
Originally Posted By: V6TransAM
Good for him.

U know what it is worth to you and your max price.

It's go or no go.

Maybe the dude didn't have another $175.

I've never bought a new car for myself, however, I do go in for my friends and I'm quite the [censored]. They get so po'ed when you look right at them and say "I'm the one you have to deal with, he's the one that signs the papers"


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Must be great.

Originally Posted By: dishdude
Seems like a lot of money for a 4 year old car, they did him a favor.


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They did him a huge favor and saved him money.
I looked at a 2012 RAV4 AWD yesterday that a family member is selling with 56K on it for $12.5K.
 
The best time to deal is last hour of last day of the month/quarter.

$20k OTD for a 4 year old RAV-4 AWD is a little high. What was MSRP ? About $24-26k ?

Problem with buying used Toyota and Honda popular vehicles such as RAV-4, CRV, Camry, Accord ... is they retain very high resale value.
 
Most of the "wait until the end of the month" advice only works on new car inventory.

The dealers own the used cars. There is no incentive to lose money on them and there are no back end exchanges (no holdback, no dealer cash, no manufacturer rebates, etc. etc.). There is literally no incentive whatsoever for a dealer to sell a used car at a loss. They will sit on a used car until the sun burns out. And usually, that strategy pays off. Someone with terrible credit and bad financial sense will come along and buy a used car with an interest rate in the double digits and the dealer will make a nice profit on both the car and the financing deal. Any time a dealer makes someone a "deal" on a used car, there is still profit baked in. There is no situation where a dealer will sell a used car for less than they paid for it in trade. If the car is absolutely dead in the water and not moving, it will go to auction and the dealer will write it off. They will not sell used inventory at a loss to walk-in customers. This is entirely opposite of new inventory, where a dealer will carve through bone to make one last sale if that helps them meet some hidden quota that will pay them back later.

I have two rules when car shopping. If buying used, I always consider dealers LAST. I will search private ads first and consider privately held inventory first. In my opinion, any Japanese brands less than 5 years old are a terrible value to purchase used. Their purchase price is simply too inflated once they hit a used car dealer inventory. The dealers will do minimal work (brake pads, cheap tires, cheap wash job) and while the car is on the lift for the brake pads, they'll make up some 150point inspection [censored]. Then they'll throw it on the lot with $5k of profit baked in from the trade-in price. It's just a terrible value for the consumer.

If buying new, then buy at the end of the month and if possible, also towards the end of the year. If possible also time the purchase with a model year change and/or model update to take advantage of additional dealer pain. A great example would be the 2015 and 2016 Honda Accord.

The 2016 Accords have been visually refreshed with LED tail lights and fog lights, and new bumpers. This means that the 2015 models are going to languish on the lot because Joe Consumer likes the new-hotness LED lights. Your friend could easily score a 2015 Accord LX for around $19200 if he waits until the end of the month. If he gets a couple of dealers going, he might even break into the 18s for a brand new car with a full warranty. That's the route I go every. single. time.
 
Stealerships.

I really hate dealing with them, and unhaggle is pure junk; I know friends who have gotten better deals bargaining with them.
 
Originally Posted By: 90crvtec
Most of the "wait until the end of the month" advice only works on new car inventory.

The dealers own the used cars. There is no incentive to lose money on them and there are no back end exchanges (no holdback, no dealer cash, no manufacturer rebates, etc. etc.). There is literally no incentive whatsoever for a dealer to sell a used car at a loss. They will sit on a used car until the sun burns out. And usually, that strategy pays off. Someone with terrible credit and bad financial sense will come along and buy a used car with an interest rate in the double digits and the dealer will make a nice profit on both the car and the financing deal. Any time a dealer makes someone a "deal" on a used car, there is still profit baked in. There is no situation where a dealer will sell a used car for less than they paid for it in trade. If the car is absolutely dead in the water and not moving, it will go to auction and the dealer will write it off. They will not sell used inventory at a loss to walk-in customers. This is entirely opposite of new inventory, where a dealer will carve through bone to make one last sale if that helps them meet some hidden quota that will pay them back later.

I have two rules when car shopping. If buying used, I always consider dealers LAST. I will search private ads first and consider privately held inventory first. In my opinion, any Japanese brands less than 5 years old are a terrible value to purchase used. Their purchase price is simply too inflated once they hit a used car dealer inventory. The dealers will do minimal work (brake pads, cheap tires, cheap wash job) and while the car is on the lift for the brake pads, they'll make up some 150point inspection [censored]. Then they'll throw it on the lot with $5k of profit baked in from the trade-in price. It's just a terrible value for the consumer.

If buying new, then buy at the end of the month and if possible, also towards the end of the year. If possible also time the purchase with a model year change and/or model update to take advantage of additional dealer pain. A great example would be the 2015 and 2016 Honda Accord.


Depends what you're buying. When I was buying my Mercedes, the best used car deal were on the dealer lots. Private party was always more or the same price and they didn't come with any warranty whereas the dealer has to provide a 30-60 day warranty, at least in my state. Plus about 95% of the inventory was on the dealer lot. They were also eager to deal at the end of the month, they just want to make their numbers for the end of the month, same as the new car dealer. It was interesting that financing never really came up as an issue, they didn't care if I paid cash or financed it.

For new car purchases, cars that hold their value like the Japanese brands are probably the way to go. For used cars, American or German brands with big deprecation is the way to go.
 
While I think its too much for a used car, its the right way to deal. Never fall in love with a car, always be ready to walk out after giving your final offer.
 
It may not be over, wait till end of month and he may receive a call to see if still interested. If a decent salesperson they will not give up.

Best advice I have for people buying cars is to be prepared to walk, there is always, always another deal around the corner.
 
Not quite sure exactly how the salesman is compensated, but it is possible that a good chunk of that $175 may be going into his pocket if the price is near the dealership's bottom line price.
 
Originally Posted By: 90crvtec
Most of the "wait until the end of the month" advice only works on new car inventory.

The dealers own the used cars. There is no incentive to lose money on them and there are no back end exchanges (no holdback, no dealer cash, no manufacturer rebates, etc. etc.). There is literally no incentive whatsoever for a dealer to sell a used car at a loss. They will sit on a used car until the sun burns out. And usually, that strategy pays off. Someone with terrible credit and bad financial sense will come along and buy a used car with an interest rate in the double digits and the dealer will make a nice profit on both the car and the financing deal. Any time a dealer makes someone a "deal" on a used car, there is still profit baked in. There is no situation where a dealer will sell a used car for less than they paid for it in trade. If the car is absolutely dead in the water and not moving, it will go to auction and the dealer will write it off. They will not sell used inventory at a loss to walk-in customers. This is entirely opposite of new inventory, where a dealer will carve through bone to make one last sale if that helps them meet some hidden quota that will pay them back later.

I have two rules when car shopping. If buying used, I always consider dealers LAST. I will search private ads first and consider privately held inventory first. In my opinion, any Japanese brands less than 5 years old are a terrible value to purchase used. Their purchase price is simply too inflated once they hit a used car dealer inventory. The dealers will do minimal work (brake pads, cheap tires, cheap wash job) and while the car is on the lift for the brake pads, they'll make up some 150point inspection [censored]. Then they'll throw it on the lot with $5k of profit baked in from the trade-in price. It's just a terrible value for the consumer.

If buying new, then buy at the end of the month and if possible, also towards the end of the year. If possible also time the purchase with a model year change and/or model update to take advantage of additional dealer pain. A great example would be the 2015 and 2016 Honda Accord.

The 2016 Accords have been visually refreshed with LED tail lights and fog lights, and new bumpers. This means that the 2015 models are going to languish on the lot because Joe Consumer likes the new-hotness LED lights. Your friend could easily score a 2015 Accord LX for around $19200 if he waits until the end of the month. If he gets a couple of dealers going, he might even break into the 18s for a brand new car with a full warranty. That's the route I go every. single. time.


I'm sorry but I beg to differ with your used car comments, everything else I agree with. After working at 5 different dealerships, we always were more aggressive on new or used cars at the end of the month. While its true the dealer owns the used car, with no incentives, they are also marked up by about $5,000/unit, or more so there's a lot of wiggle room. There is also a very good chance with financing and a warranty a good F&I manager can pick up a nice chunk of change on the back end of the deal. Subprime, credit criminals as they were often referred to were a real home run, with interest rates that were mind boggling. They aren't going to lose any money selling a used car. Ridiculous offers were rejected.
 
Originally Posted By: SeaJay
Not quite sure exactly how the salesman is compensated, but it is possible that a good chunk of that $175 may be going into his pocket if the price is near the dealership's bottom line price.

This is probably the case. $175.00 is a lot of money if it came straight off his comission.
 
The "checkbook" is not as interesting to them if full check because they make no money on financing portion of vehicle.

I found in those situations to leave the offer standing with #/email address and a "cooling off" period for sellers typically turns into selling at your price.
 
Originally Posted By: NMBurb02
Couldn't believe it that your friend would not buy the car over $175.

This is probably exactly why the dealer wouldn't budge: They were probably thinking the same thing and thought for sure the buyer would give in and pay a lousy extra $175. They weren't expecting him to walk out at that point.
 
Interesting story indeed. This model must be really popular because this car being used and at $21k, I'm sure the price was no where near the rock bottom for the dealer.

But that's the reality of purchasing really poplar models and one should be prepared to walk away from the deal. Problem is that most people have trouble with this and the sales people know this.

Honda dealer tried to pull a fast one on me as well and wanted $500 up front to start negotiations with them. That was the last time they saw me there.
 
Originally Posted By: Wolf359

For new car purchases, cars that hold their value like the Japanese brands are probably the way to go. For used cars, American or German brands with big deprecation is the way to go.

Correct. I think Japanese brands around 5-6 years old or newer are a terrible value for used cars. Other marques depreciate well ahead of schedule and some used car dealers can lowball the trade-ins and sell them cheap.
 
Originally Posted By: demarpaint

I'm sorry but I beg to differ with your used car comments, everything else I agree with. After working at 5 different dealerships, we always were more aggressive on new or used cars at the end of the month. While its true the dealer owns the used car, with no incentives, they are also marked up by about $5,000/unit, or more so there's a lot of wiggle room. There is also a very good chance with financing and a warranty a good F&I manager can pick up a nice chunk of change on the back end of the deal. Subprime, credit criminals as they were often referred to were a real home run, with interest rates that were mind boggling. They aren't going to lose any money selling a used car. Ridiculous offers were rejected.


The point I'm making on used car inventory is that while they might have wiggle room, they'll never sell one at a loss. Just because they come off a few grand on their sticker price for a used car doesn't make it a "deal". This is unlike a new car, where a dealer will sell it sometimes at a HUGE loss just to make their back end incentives pay off later on down the road. Dealers have nearly infinite wiggle room on a new car because they can shift around the burden of the loss to other clueless consumers. This strategy does not exist for used cars because the dealer has actual skin in the game with no payback for bleeding on their used car sales. Many times they'll purposely inflate their prices on used inventory to make the consumer feel like they got a good deal by knocking $1700 off the price or some other such silliness. Usually it's a tactic that works but most folks have no idea how cheaply the dealers often acquire the used cars and how little they often do to them to re-sell them. The value just isn't there for late model Japanese brands on a used car lot. The only great prices I've seen were salvage titles. In this scenario buying new will win every time. The fact of the matter is that on a used car, the dealer has a price floor that they will NOT go below for a walk-in customer, and that price floor includes a lot of markup. They have no incentive to go below that, so while it might appear that their used inventory has a lot of wiggle room, most of that is also their only source of profit for that vehicle so they won't let it go.

Some example math to show what I'm talking about:
Used 2011 RAV4 with 45k/mi "invoice" (trade in price) $15500
Dealer fluff and buff (cheap tires, shoddy wash job, interior vacuum and slimy dashboard) $500-600 parts and labor
Dealer throws that car on the lot for $21k. Even if they knock 3 grand off at the end of the month, it isn't a "deal" given all the wear items the vehicle still has.

Finally, in this theoretical situation, chances are if the dealer just holds the car for 30 more days, someone else will come along and not demand 3 grand off the price. So in most cases, dealers will fold early during the used car negotiation process because they have skin in the game and they want that cash. It's the only way to guarantee they make a tidy profit.

Now if the OP was looking at a used BMW X3, totally different story. They could probably steal a CPO with a decent warranty. My examples above just talk about the poor value as it relates to used asian marques that are relatively new (5-6 years old or newer).
 
I think we agree? I can honestly say we never lost on a used car that we sold to a customer. Our used car manager occasionally screwed up and took a bad trade, occasionally. When he did that he'd quickly off load it to a wholesaler to either break even, or he'd package a few cars together to make it look like he made money on wholesaling the group of vehicles that weren't line worthy. But nothing that made the line ever lost money.

A few times customers offered $2,000, give or take, off the ask on a used car. I shocked the [censored] out of a few of them and said yes occasionally, not trying to work them up higher. I'd say only if you take it home today. The look on their face was priceless, and those deals typically made close to $4,000 +/- when the F&I guy finished with them. Most were subprime, and the hosing he gave them on the warranty and finance brought in a nice chunk of change. Those were units that were in inventory more than 30 days, and I'd do that towards the end of the month. The funny thing is there were people who would have done better haggling, instead of thinking they were tossing out a low ball number. Many times they shot themselves in the foot. I liked selling used cars, the commissions were very nice compared to selling a new car.
 
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