Initial 0W-20 Oil

[4WD]

A lot of people believe in that particular break-in method.

Not me … and you break in the entire vehicle - not just an engine …
My last motor to burn oil was 17 years old …

 

[JHZR2]

Not me … and you break in the entire vehicle - not just an engine …
My last motor to burn oil was 17 years old …

Agree!

 

[bhvrdr]

My last 3 subarus ('18 SubaruXT, 19 Crosstrek, '22 Forester) came with 30, 20. 20 wt oil respectively. All 3 were redlined right out of the gate and say weekly after that. Otherwise vehicles are driven conservatively.

I was actually surprised that the two vehicles with 20 wt. Used "no" oil when changed at 5K miles. None of the three use oil to this day.

Glad to hear. I've had Audis drink a quart of 0w40 oil literally every 200 miles (2009 to 2013 2.0t had class action on rings) and I have a Durango that doesn't burn any measurable amount on 0w20.

 

[TiGeo]

I just drive them. I've had 5 new vehicles and never did anything more beyond not drag racing it for the first 1K miles. First oil changes at normal interval. Have had some of these over 10 years/200K without any oil consumption issues or major issues.

 

[buster]

I'm not sure if this applies to new vehicles or just new build engines, but this is a great video about the topic.

 

[JavierH19]

I changed the oil in my escalade a week ago. 7k on the interval with 14k total miles. Decided to check the level before draining though i didn't expect anything since it's new but it's my habit. Nope the stick was dry and i got a bit worried and mad. Drained and measured to see It burned a touch over 1-1/2 quarts of oil which is unacceptable given that I've never towed with it nor drive it fast and it's a new engine. I'm not against 0w-20 I'm just against engines that weren't truly engineered for it. So I'll be using 30-40 grade from now on.

 

[chris719]

Can’t say that I’ve ever had to intentionally, no. And I put a lot of miles on my cars and drive a lot.

It’s kind of stupid frankly, and unnecessary.

The slow cars (I have one with 67 hp and one with 72 hp) need to be driven accordingly and not thrashed/abused. The 72 hp car will cruise over 4000 rpm at speed, and in steep terrain (e.g., CA 58 pass heading east), may need time near or at WOT for extended time.

The more powerful cars, say, my 135i with 300/300, which isn’t even really that powerful, gets into illegal/dangerous speeds way too fast if you push it, without even needing to hit a redline.

I see plenty of idiots who accelerate into red lights, and who speed away in stop and go traffic at a rate that must mean they wot their engines to redline almost every time. Seems stupid and wasteful. There’s precious little need to push an engine to redline under any circumstance. Driving around isn’t the race track.

It is highly dubious that some owner’s arbitrary driving style has any anything to do with their oil consumption just because they took an engine to redline off the dealer’s lot.

Wait you have a 135i and never gone to redline even once?

 

[TiGeo]

Can’t say that I’ve ever had to intentionally, no. And I put a lot of miles on my cars and drive a lot.

It’s kind of stupid frankly, and unnecessary.

The slow cars (I have one with 67 hp and one with 72 hp) need to be driven accordingly and not thrashed/abused. The 72 hp car will cruise over 4000 rpm at speed, and in steep terrain (e.g., CA 58 pass heading east), may need time near or at WOT for extended time.

The more powerful cars, say, my 135i with 300/300, which isn’t even really that powerful, gets into illegal/dangerous speeds way too fast if you push it, without even needing to hit a redline.

I see plenty of idiots who accelerate into red lights, and who speed away in stop and go traffic at a rate that must mean they wot their engines to redline almost every time. Seems stupid and wasteful. There’s precious little need to push an engine to redline under any circumstance. Driving around isn’t the race track.

It is highly dubious that some owner’s arbitrary driving style has any anything to do with their oil consumption just because they took an engine to redline off the dealer’s lot.

Giving vehicles the beans from time to time, even on the street, is in my opinion...good for them and likely helps with DI engines and the intake valve deposit issue.

 

[JHZR2]

Wait you have a 135i and never gone to redline even once?

I didn’t say that. But I have no reason in any type of ordinary use, under any condition to do so.

Giving vehicles the beans from time to time, even on the street, is in my opinion...good for them and likely helps with DI engines and the intake valve deposit issue.

I don’t disagree. And WOT with lots of boost (on a turbo example) isnt a bad idea. Feline and wot with lots of fuel and heat are two different things.

 

[4WD]

I'm not sure if this applies to new vehicles or just new build engines, but this is a great video about the topic.

I stopped at hone broken down …

 

[Luftmasse]

What happens when you redline the engine on a new car off the lot? Should one not buy the vehicle?

Most vehicles on the lot are typically test driven bunch of times. And out of those bunch of times, who knows how many times they have redlined the engine or not?

 

[Al]

What’s the point of this?

I can’t say I’ve ever had to redline an engine ever.

If I don't redline my wife's Forester XT for a while a lot of "smoke" comes out the tailpipe. Also by personal experience oil consumption seemsw to be very low on the vehicles that I have "abused". I believe (can't prove) that DI intake valves may benefit. Anyways..to each his/her own.

 

[JHZR2]

If I don't redline my wife's Forester XT for a while a lot of "smoke" comes out the tailpipe. Also by personal experience oil consumption seemsw to be very low on the vehicles that I have "abused". I believe (can't prove) that DI intake valves may benefit. Anyways..to each his/her own.

Even my old mechanically controlled turbodiesels will do this when you wot. Again, wot and redline are two different practices. Fuel enriches, some soot can get moved out.

Why it would affect DI valves is also not clear. Hard running, again, is also not redline necessarily…

 

[Luftmasse]

I stopped at hone broken down …

He also states, don't use full synthetic oil during break-in because the oil is slippery.