Initial 0W-20 Oil

[Al]

My last 3 subarus ('18 SubaruXT, 19 Crosstrek, '22 Forester) came with 30, 20. 20 wt oil respectively. All 3 were redlined right out of the gate and say weekly after that. Otherwise vehicles are driven conservatively.

I was actually surprised that the two vehicles with 20 wt. Used "no" oil when changed at 5K miles. None of the three use oil to this day.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

 

[wemay]

OP might not be aware, but he's definitely chumming the water.

 

[Al]

OP might not be aware, but he's definitely chumming the water.

Of course.

 

[buster]

A lot of people believe in that particular break-in method.

 

[Hermann]

A lot of people believe in that particular break-in method.

Most new engines are abused at the factory for a few seconds to a minute.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

A lot of people believe in that particular break-in method.

These modern engines are broken in before they're ever installed in a vehicle. The only problem is that sometimes they're not cleaned up properly. The owner's manual is nearly universal in how to treat a vehicle during the first few hundred miles. I drive a new vehicle the same way I drive every day, without doing anything out of the ordinary. I just make sure to drive in mixed traffic conditions and don't rev the nuts off the engine, especially under full load.

 

[Al]

Most new engines are abused at the factory for a few seconds to a minute.

Wish I could prove that.

 

[JHZR2]

What’s the point of this?

I can’t say I’ve ever had to redline an engine ever.

 

[Skippy722]

Wish I could prove that.

They all pretty much get thrown on a dyno and ran pretty hard. Helps check for vibrations and if something is going to come apart in the engine or drivetrain at speed, it’ll probably be the first time it’s ran hard.

What’s the point of this?

I can’t say I’ve ever had to redline an engine ever.

My truck stated “Drive moderately during the first 300 miles (500 km). After the initial 60 miles (100 km), speeds up to 50 or 55 mph (80 or 90 km/h) are desirable.

While cruising, brief full-throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws contributes to a good break-in. Wide-open throttle acceleration in low gear can be detrimental and should be avoided.”

Man I love those “brief full throttle acceleration within the limits of local traffic laws” moments WOT in low gear just results in tire smoke though. I had to test that also of course, yknow to make sure the limited slip diff is working properly!

 

[buster]

I drive normally the first 20 miles. I then put a bit of load on the engine up to 4k rpms a few times, letting it cool down in between. That's about it. But knowing they are already broken-in to some extent I guess it doesn't matter. I was under the impression they weren't

 

[SubieRubyRoo]

A lot of people believe in that particular break-in method.

By chumming the waters?

 

[chris719]

I don’t know about every manufacturer, but I think many run the car on a dyno before it rolls out. I saw a Porsche factory video and it looked like they take it to redline.

BMW still does a 1200 mile oil change and tells you to stay below 5500 rpm etc. on M cars but I think it’s more psychological than anything. The Z4M I bought long ago was test driven multiple times before I bought it and the last guy got pulled over going 135 mph. I’m sure that car saw 8k rpm before break in service and it burned less oil than most S54 engines do. I doubt it helped but I also doubt it hurt.

 

[Deleted member 89374]

but I think it’s more psychological than anything

It could be the style of bearings they use in the engines in the M cars. They have to slightly wear evenly to break in. At least, that's how it is for the new Corvette V8.

 

[chris719]

It could be the style of bearings they use in the engines in the M cars. They have to slightly wear evenly to break in. At least, that's how it is for the new Corvette V8.

With BMW the trick is they just keep wearing .

Actually I think you’re right but it depends on the motor. The S54 and part of the V8 and V10 run used traditional tri-metal leaded bearings. Everything after including the regular engines use these Glyco “intelligent” bearing materials that are supposed to wear initially but get harder. That is until the very newest cars which use the orange IROX coated bearings that just don’t seem to wear at all finally… but pretty much every M engine before the newest S58 show mild to severely accelerated rod bearing wear depending on the exact engine. I assume the new sputter bearings demand a better journal finish to allow for their hardness, but I don’t know for sure. I don’t know much about engines if I’m honest. I just did research to hopefully ensure mine don’t throw rods through the block.

I do love the 2.5 MZR in my Mazda 3. I drove it like I stole it on 0/5W-20 for 150k and still doesn’t burn a drop over 5000-7500 OCI.

 

[02zx9r rev2]

Huh?

 

[TiGeo]

What’s the point of this?

I can’t say I’ve ever had to redline an engine ever.

You've never red lined a vehicle?

 

[doublebase]

I’m not really positive what the thread is exactly about...engine break in, or oil viscosity (probably both), but I always am fascinated with engine break in discussions. I have no idea why...especially where it’s very unusual that I’ll buy a car new.

But my last one (2018 Silverado) purchased new...what did I do? I immediately left the dealer, hopped on the highway and drove it easy. Then I went on a 500 mile trip two days later. Probably the two things - I’d later read - that you shouldn’t do...long trip at constant highway speeds. I’m sure there were plenty of stop lights along the way to those first 500-700 miles. And probably a few higher rpm’s that happened, that I was trying to avoid. And then of course I dumped the factory fill oil at 1,000 miles...was later told I shouldn’t have (because that’s when all the moly gets to imbed itself into the cam lobes, etc). None of it mattered. The thing consumed oil from day one and I traded it in at 50,000 miles because the truck was a piece of garbage (starter failure at 34,000 miles, misfires right out of bumper to bumper warranty, frame rust, paint chips, Chevy shake, tranny wouldn’t shift right going up hills, oil consumption, fuel dilution in the oil). Hey, maybe it was all because of that 500 mile trip during break in?

 

[JHZR2]

You've never red lined a vehicle?

Can’t say that I’ve ever had to intentionally, no. And I put a lot of miles on my cars and drive a lot.

It’s kind of stupid frankly, and unnecessary.

The slow cars (I have one with 67 hp and one with 72 hp) need to be driven accordingly and not thrashed/abused. The 72 hp car will cruise over 4000 rpm at speed, and in steep terrain (e.g., CA 58 pass heading east), may need time near or at WOT for extended time.

The more powerful cars, say, my 135i with 300/300, which isn’t even really that powerful, gets into illegal/dangerous speeds way too fast if you push it, without even needing to hit a redline.

I see plenty of idiots who accelerate into red lights, and who speed away in stop and go traffic at a rate that must mean they wot their engines to redline almost every time. Seems stupid and wasteful. There’s precious little need to push an engine to redline under any circumstance. Driving around isn’t the race track.

It is highly dubious that some owner’s arbitrary driving style has any anything to do with their oil consumption just because they took an engine to redline off the dealer’s lot.

 

[dbias]

I make sure to do a lot of engine breaking when breaking in a new vehicle. I have several mountains around me and it’s easy to do. I’ve never had a car I’ve owned from new that used much oil