I'm about to install synthetic

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I find the MPG thing a bit quirky too.
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You may be right about full broken in. I know that metal pieces that are mirror polished have a lot less friction between them. Colt handguns always had better finishes inside than the Smith & Wesson that I worked on. I could decrease the pull on a S&W by just polishing the mating part inside to near mirror finish. Then I could trim a bit of the rebound spring off that "returns" the trigger to the forward position after being pulled back. Combining with the polishing and the trigger work, it effectively lowered the lbs of pull that was needed to fire the weapon in double action mode. I used to do a LOT of pistol tuning for guys, and making parts near mirror was a part of it all. Now stands to reason that motor oil, being Dino (aka conventional) may have some abrasive actions in it called carbon (among others). After things got polished so bright I switched to synthetic and the oil in synthetic is different. Crude oil has various sized molecules in it and some burn off (smallest) some adhere (varnish) and the rest provide lubricity in the engine. Synthetic has near uniform size molecules and perhaps it's because of this and the fact that it's stays around with less volatilization that it creates a condition for increased gas mileage. Synthetic oil has a higher base number than most conventional oils and appears to be more "detergent" oriented. Clean engines go a long way toward long life and increased performance.

Black powder shoots a bullet out from a firearm, and so does smokeless powders. The smokeless have similar but very uniquely superior qualities over the black powder of yesterday. I think in terms that the synthetic oils, whether Amsoil, Valvoline, Mobil, Red Line, Quaker State, etc have evolved into the "oils of today".

Amsoil may have been the 1st in synthetics for automotive industry, but I find it surprising how MANY are following suit. Even the Wal-Mart brand now has a full synthetic oil.

Since Mossad has indicated that price was no concern, just wanted oil to be cleanest, I would say if I had a shop with 2ea 55 gal drums of oil. One Mobil 1 and the other Havoline (or any other conventional), and was told by the oil guy that comes around, "let me know when you are getting low and I'll bring you by some more free oil" I'd use the Mobil 1. Why not?
 
Bill in Utah,
Can you or anyone really refute the fact that my engine will be better protected using synthetic on those 20 degree days when my wife drives that lumber box to the school 1 mile away, shuts it off, then drives it home the 1 mile to be shut off again? Wouldn't you rather have a syntheic under those horrid driving conditions?
 
If you change a high mileage engine over to synthetic lubes, you will get some additional performance from cleaning up the pre-existing sludge/varnish/carbon deposits. This is particularly true if the engine hadn't been well maintained and had used the old, Group I solvent refined oils that left heavy deposits.

In addition the piston ring seal and compression will tend to improve over time as these deposits are slowly removed by the solvency of the synthetic esters. This can lead to significant improvements in fuel efficiency and general operating characteristics.

It's only speculation, but that could be what you're seeing here....

TS
 
This is an issue I have been debating myself. I am driving a modified subaru STi (4 cylinder/18+ PSI boost) so I went with synth (redline 10w30)thinking that it would have better protection when I am really pushing it. Would I be wrong thinking this?
 
If my memory serves me right, wrx's and especially sti's are tough on oil. They shear dino down pretty good, so I think you're making the right choice by running synthetic.
 
Does anyone have any info on the full synthetic now being sold by Wal-Mart under their own label? It is half the cost M-1. I have been using Mobil 1 in my vehicles since it first came out. In my daily driver with 94K, in my wife's at 44k, I change the filter every 3k, and drain and refill completely every 24k. That is the procedure I've followed in all my vehicles for years. In my 4x4 F150 with 235k, I recently switched (drive about 1k a year) and will do a complete change this winter then leave it alone except for filter changes annually. Runs like new. Also use it in my garden tractor, generator, DR mower, you name it! All engines run clean, start easily, and are quiet. Love synthetic.
 
Unless you're willing to drastically extend your OCI's, you're just urinating your money away with full syn. You will never experience any oil related problems by going 4-5K on dino, so why switch to full syn if you aren't going to take advantage of its longer interval capabilities?
 
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