...for those that get concerned by the 20 grades, fortunately most 30 grades are on the lighter side so going up a grade won't be an issue. But the data shows IMO that 20 grades have proven themselves as engines are lasting longer than ever.
...for those that get concerned by the 20 grades, fortunately most 30 grades are on the lighter side so going up a grade won't be an issue. But the data shows IMO that 20 grades have proven themselves as engines are lasting longer than ever.
It also tells us that there are some interesting additives being used in these oils that will not be picked up in a consumer analysis.
“Quite often” is relative. Fewer than 1% of vehicles in the USA make it to 200,000 miles, be it due to to wrecks, rust, required engine repairs or whatever.To me 240k isn't that great. It was almost all highway driving. Especially when it's not a reasonably priced repair like doing timing chain and gears on my Oldsmobile V8 or even my gm 4.8. The 4.8 is at 200k and 8700 hours and I'm hoping to never have to do the timing chain.
Engines quite often go over 300k miles these day.
Statis
“Quite often” is relative. Fewer than 1% of vehicles in the USA make it to 200,000 miles, be it due to to wrecks, rust, required engine repairs or whatever.![]()
From what i read, the wear the GF6 spec is helping against, is the crud getting into the chain links.Regarding the chains, the wear seems to be mainly with the tensioners and guides. Once the motor is taken apart to replace those parts the chain usually gets replaced as well. Some motors have long chains with all kinds of turns and multiple guides and such.
The new SP oils are definitely a step in the right direction.
That was my understanding as well.From what i read, the wear the GF6 spec is helping against, is the crud getting into the chain links.
Most definitely. If you looked at Mobil 1 from 2005 it looked almost identical to Amsoil from 2015. 270ppm of Boron, and 3,200 ppm of Ca. Metallic additives have been reduced and newer additives have replaced them. The end result is an oil that looks "frail"on paper but is actually a better overall oil.
I can't recall who said it, but I remember when we first started discussing the AFE oils it was discovered that Mobil was using organic additives that wouldn't show up on a UOA to improve AW performance, reduce friction...etc.
I compare this discussion to the never ending RP discussion. Members say it’s identical to Valvoline via analyses,but will state that analyses can’t disclose all the ingredients.
For the sake of changing it up a bit...RP is the same as Napa Synthetic.![]()
How many of them do you actually think would have blown up had they made it to 200k miles?Statis
“Quite often” is relative. Fewer than 1% of vehicles in the USA make it to 200,000 miles, be it due to to wrecks, rust, required engine repairs or whatever.![]()
A lot of people keep saying how engines last so much longer these days, then someone says 200k miles is a big accomplishment. I've had quite a few of my 70s and 80s V8s (305 Chevy's and 350 Olds) last over 200k, one with 332k and these are from the era people here often say didn't last long. These miles weren't highway miles put on in 10 years they were over 20-30+ years. All that was needed was some cheap gaskets and seals....for those that get concerned by the 20 grades, fortunately most 30 grades are on the lighter side so going up a grade won't be an issue. But the data shows IMO that 20 grades have proven themselves as engines are lasting longer than ever.
The 4.6 had some timing chain tensioner failures that became common in the mid 2000s IIRC. I don't think the earlier ones had any issues besides valve seals and cracked plastic intake manifolds on some of them.I'm one of those that still believe thicker is better when it comes to protection. I ran 5w-30 in my 98 F-150 even after Ford back spec'd 5w-20. I ran 5w-30 in a 3.8L JKU Wrangler later a JLU 3.6L Wrangler with no issues. The 3.8L spec'd 5w-20 and the 3.6L 0w-20. Trying to decide if I want to run 0w-40 or stick with 5w-30 in my new Ford Ranger with the 2.3L EB TGDI engine.
I recently changed the cam chains, tensioners and guides on that 98 Ford Triton 4.6L V8 with 240,000 miles. There was knocking/rattling in front of the engine that convinced me they were bad. I was surprised to find they were in great shape. I changed them anyway since I was there. That engine had always had synthetic 5w-30 with 5k OCIs. M1 for the first 100,000 miles or so then Super Tech. Engine is still going strong. Oh, that knocking/rattling? Turns out it was a bad bearing in the A/C compressor pully.
It must be a lot higher than 1% of those that get a fair chance. I've known too many over 200k to believe that's rare.“Quite often” is relative. Fewer than 1% of vehicles in the USA make it to 200,000 miles, be it due to to wrecks, rust, required engine repairs or whatever.