I year motor oil

[macarose]

Highly Educated Engineer : "We recommend a 5000 mile oil change on this vehicle."

Internet Wanna-Be : "But gee! Dollar General Oil says that their API SF oil is guaranteed for a full 15,000 miles and their commercials are really, really good!. I'll buy that instead and save myself an oil change."

HEE: "Dollar General will not warranty your engine."

IWB: "But it's guaranteed!"

And this is exactly why mechanics have way too many cars to work on these days. Everyone is a know-it-all cheapskate.

 

[Scott S]

No I'm not a cheapskate, I'm asking a hypothetical question, right now I am changing my oil with M1 and I change it every 6 months which is anywhere from 3 to 5,000 MI.!!! I typically use pure one oil filters, Wix or Wix XP.

 

[Corollaman]

It all depends on your driving conditions, if you do a lot of short trips I wouldn't do a long drain interval regardless of oil brand. If you do a lot of highway driving extended drain intervals would make sense. Different engine types are a factor as well, direct injected turbo charged engines are harder on oil than naturally aspirated engines. The only true way to see what works for you is pick an oil, run it however many miles you feel comfortable and get a used oil analysis and go from there.

 

[walterjay]

I would use Mobil 1 Extended Performance and a Fram Ultra. I don't think you could go wrong with that combo.

 

[dnewton3]

2013 Ford Edge 3.5 Duratech Engine 6qts current time I'm using 5W-20 synthetic, I may switch to 5W-30 synthetic I think it's about 120,000

OK - we're at least getting closer ...

By 2013, the 3.5L was called the Cyclone, not Duratec (which was a predated model). This is the basis of the 3.5L EB engines, but I presume yours is the n/a version; by far the most common in that time frame for your application in the Edge. These engines wear very well; incredibly well, actually. Also, they run extremely clean. About the only issue they have is the cost of the internal water-pump (not oil related, so we'll ignore that for now, but something you definitely should be aware of for the future ...)

You can pretty much run about any lube out to 15k miles in that engine. Seriously. It won't matter; the engine does not care. The oiling system is very stout, and the engine does not have hot-spots, so coking of the rings or on top of the heads isn't an issue. The use factors don't seem to affect the Cyclone series either; hot or cold, hwy or city, they wear fairly consistently and steady.

For reference, I put my money where my mouth is ... and have the proof ...
Here is a UOA after I ran 12k miles on ST dino oil. Yes - Walmart's basic conventional oil at 12k miles, and everything was fine.
Then I next ran HPL for 10k miles. Notice that the wear rates were incredibly similar.

Ford 3.5L at 50k mi / HPL 5w-30 at 10k mi

My most recent extended run in my 2018 Taurus n/a 3.5L. Typical mixed use; city and highway. To help this make sense, here is an OCI history: - at 1k miles, the oil/filter was changed with dino ST (first "break in" flush of the OEM machining remnants) - at 5k miles, the oil/filter was changed...

bobistheoilguy.com

Inexpensive dino oil and uber-premium boutique synthetic oil produced very similar wear, even at durations at/over 10k miles.

You can use just about any SN or higher rated lube in your application and it won't matter. 15k miles would be easily doable in the right circumstances. Now, I do NOT advocate for just running 15k miles without any knowledge of your specific engine. First, run 5k miles; get a UOA. Then 10k miles; get a UOA. Develop a good database and build up your OCIs. Do NOT just jump into a 15k mile OCI without knowing what's going on. You could have contamination issues (fuel, coolant, Si) and that would negate the longer runs.

But your question is basically easy to answer .... Any SN or higher rated lube would suffice for 15k miles in a healthy Cyclone engine. And when I say any SN or better oil, I mean exactly that. You can run a syn if you choose to, but it's not going to do anything substantially different for that OCI duration. As long as you use a decent API spec'd lube, the Cyclone simply does not care and will not give appreciably different results, no matter what you use.

 

[Scott S]

OK - we're at least getting closer ...

By 2013, the 3.5L was called the Cyclone, not Duratec (which was a predated model). This is the basis of the 3.5L EB engines, but I presume yours is the n/a version; by far the most common in that time frame for your application in the Edge. These engines wear very well; incredibly well, actually. Also, they run extremely clean. About the only issue they have is the cost of the internal water-pump (not oil related, so we'll ignore that for now, but something you definitely should be aware of for the future ...)

You can pretty much run about any lube out to 15k miles in that engine. Seriously. It won't matter; the engine does not care. The oiling system is very stout, and the engine does not have hot-spots, so coking of the rings or on top of the heads isn't an issue. The use factors don't seem to affect the Cyclone series either; hot or cold, hwy or city, they wear fairly consistently and steady.

For reference, I put my money where my mouth is ... and have the proof ...
Here is a UOA after I ran 12k miles on ST dino oil. Yes - Walmart's basic conventional oil at 12k miles, and everything was fine.
Then I next ran HPL for 10k miles. Notice that the wear rates were incredibly similar.

Ford 3.5L at 50k mi / HPL 5w-30 at 10k mi

My most recent extended run in my 2018 Taurus n/a 3.5L. Typical mixed use; city and highway. To help this make sense, here is an OCI history: - at 1k miles, the oil/filter was changed with dino ST (first "break in" flush of the OEM machining remnants) - at 5k miles, the oil/filter was changed...

bobistheoilguy.com

Inexpensive dino oil and uber-premium boutique synthetic oil produced very similar wear, even at durations at/over 10k miles.

You can use just about any SN or higher rated lube in your application and it won't matter. 15k miles would be easily doable in the right circumstances. Now, I do NOT advocate for just running 15k miles without any knowledge of your specific engine. First, run 5k miles; get a UOA. Then 10k miles; get a UOA. Develop a good database and build up your OCIs. Do NOT just jump into a 15k mile OCI without knowing what's going on. You could have contamination issues (fuel, coolant, Si) and that would negate the longer runs.

But your question is basically easy to answer .... Any SN or higher rated lube would suffice for 15k miles in a healthy Cyclone engine. And when I say any SN or better oil, I mean exactly that. You can run a syn if you choose to, but it's not going to do anything substantially different for that OCI duration. As long as you use a decent API spec'd lube, the Cyclone simply does not care and will not give appreciably different results, no matter what you use.

Water pump, chains tensioners and guides also the oil pump was taken care of out of preventive maintenance last year. Thank you for clarifying, Duratech versus cyclone, I feel more comfortable with synthetic I just want the best synthetic for it..

 

[diallta]

I used to change the oil in my Saab turbo once every 12-18 months, sometimes 24 months, usually running about 20,000km. I often ran the car hard, and when I sold it with over 300,000km the engine ran as smooth as new and never needed servicing. I used Mobil 1 per the sticker Saab put under the bonnet and usually a Mann filter.

Our replacement car has direct injection, and I've collected some evidence that DI will generate soot which remains in the oil and could cause wear. As this engine was known for chain problems, I'll probably change it every 12 months.

 

[dnewton3]

Water pump, chains tensioners and guides also the oil pump was taken care of out of preventive maintenance last year.

Excellent!

Thank you for clarifying, Duratech versus cyclone

You're welcome

, I feel more comfortable with synthetic

Well, as long as you understand it's an emotional want and not an engine need, that's fine. Use what you "feel" like if that makes you sleep better.

I just want the best synthetic for it..

Ah - here's where I'm going to pick a nit ... You still have not defined what "best" means.
I'll take a wild guess and presume you mean "The best oil that I can get at Walmart that will make my engine last forever ..."
So allow me to bring up some pertinent realities:

1 - your engine won't last forever, because you're not going to drive it forever. You have a 10 year old car with only 120k miles on it. You'd have to drive it another 30 years at that rate to even get close to a potential end-of-life discussion about that engine. The Cyclone engines have been known to run 400k+ miles as long as the water pumps and timing set are dealt with. You'll either have the car totaled in an accident, or trade/sell it out of boredom before you'd ever wear the engine out.

2- the bearings in the water pump are sealed; they don't get bathed in engine oil, so the oil you select will never make the water pump last longer ...

3 - There is no "best" that we, or you, or anyone can say with 100% certainty; not in a practical sense.
To know which is "best", you'd have to do hundreds of thousands of miles of testing, across many different brands/grades, with UOAs, and teardown analysis.
You, and no one else on BITOG, has that kind of time and money to accurately prove what's "best".

4 - You're probably going to also bring up "cleanliness" and other ancillary topics. Again - these are moot. The Cyclone engines run very clean; they don't produce sludge. They also aren't GDI; they are PFI, so there's no IVD to worry about.

5 - Your region of the country does not see any type of weather that is so extreme that you'd need some uber-super-duper GTL or PAO syn. It doesn't get hot enough and it doesn't get cold enough.

6 - Pretty much anything you're going to bring up as a Yabut ("Yeah ... but what about ...") is just flat out moot. The sooner you realize it, the better you'll understand the situation you're in.


What I can say with absolute certainty is to reiterate what I previously said. The Cyclone engines simply don't care as long as the oil is of a reasonable grade in the proper API spec.

Your engine doesn't need a syn to live a long and happy life, but you're mentally committed to a syn, and so we'll nod to your "wants". You might as well buy the least expensive syn you can find. (I would recommend any manner of house brand, but if you are a lube-snob and must have brand name, buy whichever is on sale).

Your engine will NEVER, EVER be able to distinguish a difference, but your wallet will.

 

[CharBaby]

Even the occasional. What oil would you choose to hold up?

Any synthetic oil that meets the requirements for your engine.
How long do you plan on keeping your vehicle. There are different criteria for OCI's depending on how long you plan on keeping a vehicle. If you want to keep a vehicle forever, change the oil & filter often. But if you are a 3-5 year turnover of vehicle, do what makes you sleep at night.

 

[Scott S]

Excellent!


You're welcome


Well, as long as you understand it's an emotional want and not an engine need, that's fine. Use what you "feel" like if that makes you sleep better.


Ah - here's where I'm going to pick a nit ... You still have not defined what "best" means.
I'll take a wild guess and presume you mean "The best oil that I can get at Walmart that will make my engine last forever ..."
So allow me to bring up some pertinent realities:

1 - your engine won't last forever, because you're not going to drive it forever. You have a 10 year old car with only 120k miles on it. You'd have to drive it another 30 years at that rate to even get close to a potential end-of-life discussion about that engine. The Cyclone engines have been known to run 400k+ miles as long as the water pumps and timing set are dealt with. You'll either have the car totaled in an accident, or trade/sell it out of boredom before you'd ever wear the engine out.

2- the bearings in the water pump are sealed; they don't get bathed in engine oil, so the oil you select will never make the water pump last longer ...

3 - There is no "best" that we, or you, or anyone can say with 100% certainty; not in a practical sense.
To know which is "best", you'd have to do hundreds of thousands of miles of testing, across many different brands/grades, with UOAs, and teardown analysis.
You, and no one else on BITOG, has that kind of time and money to accurately prove what's "best".

4 - You're probably going to also bring up "cleanliness" and other ancillary topics. Again - these are moot. The Cyclone engines run very clean; they don't produce sludge. They also aren't GDI; they are PFI, so there's no IVD to worry about.

5 - Your region of the country does not see any type of weather that is so extreme that you'd need some uber-super-duper GTL or PAO syn. It doesn't get hot enough and it doesn't get cold enough.

6 - Pretty much anything you're going to bring up as a Yabut ("Yeah ... but what about ...") is just flat out moot. The sooner you realize it, the better you'll understand the situation you're in.


What I can say with absolute certainty is to reiterate what I previously said. The Cyclone engines simply don't care as long as the oil is of a reasonable grade in the proper API spec.

Your engine doesn't need a syn to live a long and happy life, but you're mentally committed to a syn, and so we'll nod to your "wants". You might as well buy the least expensive syn you can find. (I would recommend any manner of house brand, but if you are a lube-snob and must have brand name, buy whichever is on sale).

Your engine will NEVER, EVER be able to distinguish a difference, but your wallet will.

That pretty much answered my questions, the regimen I'm on right now, I know the engine is very clean inside, from seeing it with a bore scope, I guess I'll just stay on that same regimen.. Thank you..