I need the best penetrating oil

Just an FYI

"penetrating" is an advertising term, not an engineering feature. It means nothing and cannot be effectively measured or compared.

All these "penetrants" work by capillary action and wick into gaps. Some have a solvent added to break up and saturate through a degree of oxidation.

Some advertise down to a "millionth of an inch" and all that- depending on viscosity and Sg they might.

But if you have a full surface contact (both touching so not even that "millionth of an inch gap like a machined surface fit) or if the corrosion/Loctite, thread damage, dirt, anti seize or whatever creates a hard "clog" then all its going to do is sit there and maybe percolate on the surface. It wont penetrate anything regardless of the recipe or name on the can.
 
I didn't read all 12 pages but I've had good success with break free clp. I think they've got another suffix behind the name now so I don't know if the formula has changed or not. DON'T forget to shake well before using!
 
My brother has been working part time in a vehicle salvage yard as a parts puller for 20 years he started right after he retired from the Army after a 23 year stint. They use bulk liquid wrench to help loosen frozen and rusted parts and bolts. If a part is really bad they spray on the liquid wrench and tap the part a few times to cause some vibration and most of the time the part can be removed after a short time. Sometimes they soak the part overnight. If that fails they use the old standby ..the torch. Penetrant oils do work but not all the time, and that is when the heat is needed.
 
I have never met a penetrating oil that works better than my propane torch. I have no time for soaking oils. If I'm doing an alignment and I have a seized tie rod, the first thing it gets is the torch. Exhaust flange nuts? Torch. Once it breaks loose, then I skeet some WD40 on the threads for some temporary lubrication.

WD40 is the only spray can that I keep on my tool cart. It's nothing magicial. I like the smell, it's safe on most surfaces, the flippy straw nozzle is cool, and it has multiple uses.
 
Nothing has beaten 50/50 mix of acetone/transmission fluid. Those are six 8-32 slot screws in the clips holding the frame to the porcelain fixture with real red lead on top. The screws have been in there 70 years and the red lead on top since 1989. Steel and salt environment. The first screw broke right off at the top while deforming the slot. I should have known better. I used a pipette to put my mix on and then let sit 24 hours. After that the screws came out like there were just put in moments before. That easy it was amazing given how the red lead seemed to seal them. Threw away the screws after restoration for new ones.

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Heat and Liquid Wrench. If the others poop their pants in the mild comparison at Project Farm, let the believers do a direct head to head comparison with their favourite product and post it.
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Silikroil is the best I’ve ever used. Acetone/atf mix is up there as well. If you need brick and mortar then liquid wrench tops PB and wd40.
 
.......but not Penetro. I need something for removing rusted automotive exhaust parts but i pretty much need it by tomorrow. Sick of these mail order companies and the closest "rep" to me for Penetro is about 100 miles away. Anyhow, what is the best one that is sold in most local stores. Liquid wrench? I know WD-40 isnt a pen oil at all. Any out there better than Liquid Wrench?
P B Blaster seems to work pretty well .
 
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