I Increased the oil capacity in my infiniti to over 9 Qts

[i30krab]

I called the guys at Canton racing products
http://www.accusump.com/index.html and they sold me an Accusump unit (#24-006) with no valves or guages. The unit holds 3 full qts of oil. I plumbed it inline at the relocated oil filter and put quick disconnects in line to be able to quickly remove the unit because it sits right on top of the motor. I then got a finned aluminum cool collar oil cooler from
http://cool-collar.com/. They made me a custom 16" unit to fit over the accusump setup.
So, 4.5 qts oil stock
3 qts in accusump
almost a full qt in oil filter
at least 1/2 to 3/4 qts in lines and oil
cooler
This gives a little over 9 qts.

 

[dkryan]

i30krab:

What year is your I30? 3.0L V6, I presume? And why did you feel the need for a 9 quart capacity? I'd be happy with a capacity of 6 quarts in mine!

 

[Pablo]

Great for extended OCI's - got picts? I would think the collar wouldn't really be needed with that much "extra" oil.

 

[toocrazy2yoo]

Hey I-30!

Did you per chance work a bypass filter system into the mix? Jeez, 9 Quarts of some kinda primo Synthetic, a bypass, and all that cooling, how would you EVER feed the need to change?

You'd never have to again!!!

Ain't that about the size of it, Pablo?

 

[kgcobra320]

I've been researching the oil accumulator technique for about 6 months now and have talked to the Canton guys a number of times. I have a Canton mecca canister filter and their 2 qt Accusump.

A couple of suggestions/questions:

The Accusump should be located as far as possible away from the exhaust or in a location where a heat soak condition could exist. On top of the motor might not be the best place.

Depending on your oil pressure fluctuation, mine is 28-80psi from idle to high RPM, the accusump will fill at high pressure and then dump the extra oil into the pan at idle. This is a problem, as during normal driving conditions, when you come to a stop the oil pan will have too much oil and the crank will foam the oil. Foamed oil is not good. The EPC valving that canton sells solves this problem with a pressure switch. However with this problem solved you will not get the back and forth flow in the accusump to take advantage of the cooling fins that you have. I would suggest a seperate cooler instead as you already have the remote filter setup.

Does your over pressure relief valve leak at all?

Kevin

 

[kgcobra320]

Forget about the oil cooler....I see that you already have one...duh

 

[Pablo]

I find myself suddenly agreeing with Mr. KG Cobra - I did not realize there is no pressure control valving in that set-up.

 

[kgcobra320]

I probably would just leave the cooling fins on anyway, if only to get the heat out of the Accusump when the engine is off. The pressure relief valves have been known to leak esp. during this time.

Do you have the unit solidly mounted??
60psi can move things around a bit...

What bypass filter are you using?

 

[surfstar]

What are you trying to accomplish by doubling the sump capacity? More oil lines to blow? More $$ for an oil change?

I don't see the benefits outweighing the potential negatives.

 

[Raven18940]

Why not just go dry sump?

 

[Leo]

Such a large amount of oil will take longer to warm up. No good for short trippers!

 

[kgcobra320]

The primary use in my case is for preoiling prior to startup, a very good thing considering how much engine wear occurs during this time. The accusump also provides loss of oil presssure protection and surge control for race applications.

After startup the unit refills, the valve closes and the amount of oil left in the pan to warm up is the same as it would normally be.

A dry sump setup is considerably more expensive.

 

[kgcobra320]

quote:

---

SOME CAR BACKGROUND;
96 I30, Roll bar, Built tranny,11.5 lbs of dynoed SC boost with aftercooler & vortech mustang internals, 75 shot N2O, H2O injection, built engine 9:1 compression,JWT cams,valve sprgs,vq30 DET pistons,shot peaned rods,ported & polished gasket matched exh and intake manifold, intake is extrude honed. Custom 3" exhaust past cat with 2 1/2" exhaust out to tail pipes. Electric cut out after cat & & 3" dump out the side giving me a full 3" exhaust.
I'm using the 3.5L oil pump so I have plenty of pressure!
The car dynos over 430FWHP

---

Sounds like a really nice car!!!

quote:

---

I use the cannister strictly as an oil resivoir, no valves or pressure devices! My car is lowered and I don't have any clearance for an aftermarket oil pan.

---

You still have an air precharge on the cannister and a safty pressure relief valve though right??? A guy over on corner carvers blew his Accusump because it was completely hydrolocked with oil and the relief valve was replaced with a plug!! Luckily for him it happened in the driveway.

Kevin

 

[i30krab]

"You still have an air precharge on the cannister and a safty pressure relief valve though right??? A guy over on corner carvers blew his Accusump because it was completely hydrolocked with oil and the relief valve was replaced with a plug!! Luckily for him it happened in the driveway." Kevin

I talked to Doug at Canton Racing and he said no relief valves or air precharge is necessary since the oil flows in and out freely!!

 

[surfstar]

"SOME CAR BACKGROUND"

^now that was a good reason for an oil upgrade.

 

[jamesn]

did you have the rotating assembly balanced? from what i read, there could be no improvement on the factory balance job.

 

[i30krab]

"did you have the rotating assembly balanced? from what i read, there could be no improvement on the factory balance job."

Yes , and the machinist said it was right on from the factory even with the new pistons!

 

[i30krab]

SOME CAR BACKGROUND;
96 I30, Roll bar, Built tranny,11.5 lbs of dynoed SC boost with aftercooler & vortech mustang internals, 75 shot N2O, H2O injection, built engine 9:1 compression,JWT cams,valve sprgs,vq30 DET pistons,shot peaned rods,ported & polished gasket matched exh and intake manifold, intake is extrude honed. Custom 3" exhaust past cat with 2 1/2" exhaust out to tail pipes. Electric cut out after cat & & 3" dump out the side giving me a full 3" exhaust.
I'm using the 3.5L oil pump so I have plenty of pressure!
The car dynos over 430FWHP




"Such a large amount of oil will take longer to warm up. No good for short trippers!"
I live in Las Vegas I don't worry about my oil heating up and I use royal purple racing 21.

"why did you feel the need for a 9 quart capacity? I'd be happy with a capacity of 6 quarts in mine!"
I take my car to the LV strip and also It's my everyday ride and driven hard.

"Did you per chance work a bypass filter system into the mix?"

I use a K&N- HP-3002 relocated oil filter.

"I've been researching the oil accumulator technique for about 6 months now and have talked to the Canton guys a number of times. I have a Canton mecca canister filter and their 2 qt Accusump"
I use the cannister strictly as an oil resivoir, no valves or pressure devices! My car is lowered and I don't have any clearance for an aftermarket oil pan.

"Do you have the unit solidly mounted??
60psi can move things around a bit"

Actually because of the larger 3.5 oil pump I have up to 95 lbs of pressure at wide open throttle! The unit doesn't move at all because one side is on hi temp rubber foam over the intake runners and the other side presses up against the hood liner.

"Why not just go dry sump?"

Absolutely no room!!

" I don't see the benefits outweighing the potential negatives."

Did you ever rive around Las Vegas in 115 degree heat or race your car at the drag strip??

 

[Eddie]

Too big a sump can cause a very long oil warmup time which= more cold start wear.

 

[ex_MGB]

Yes indeed, the details on the engine certainly shed a bit more light.

This is why I love my '97 Max SE with it's 3.0 liter VQ. That block along with the main bearing support girdle is stout. It's been said that no properly tuned FI VQ has ever blown. I might believe that because I'm sure the transaxle, even built up as best as possible in the limited space available, will invariably go first.