New Problem after Switching Oils...

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22
Location
SC
Good Evening... Switched oils... think I have a problem or am developing a problem. I want some input. I have always had my car, a 2013 Infiniti G37, serviced at the dealership since new because it came with free oil changes for the first four years at 3,750 mile intervals, which is fine with me.. That said, I always bought them the oil because they were fine with it provided it met the spec. At first I used to provide Pennzoil Ultra /w Hyper Cleaning Technology. Then I provided regular Mobil 1, and finally Mobil 1 Extended Protection (the ones I purchased had the gold cap). Regardless, it spent 90%+ of its life on Mobil 1 and ALL of these oils have always been API-SN and 5W-30. At any rate, I started changing my own oil now because it is less than the $90 the dealer wants now to do it, and I am certain what goes in it! Anyway, I did my first change myself at exactly 60,088 on May 22, 2018 putting in Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. I switched from Mobil 1 Extended protection because I bought the Pennzoil Platinum at Walmart for $22.99 with a $10 rebate that's $12.99 for 5 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum - $2.60/quart. I hear the GTL is supposedly great, and I run mostly Shell 93 AKI Gasoline because that's what we have on the east coast (with mid-grade being only 89 AKI - and the car requiring 91 AKI). Shell is the closest "Top-Tier" stuff I can find! Regardless Shell falls under the same SOPUS umbrella that owns Pennzoil and Quaker State with Pennzoil being their flag-ship in the United States. Hence, there is no reason I can imagine this would not be comparable to Mobil 1 - perhaps a different process and different blend of bases and additive packages, but I am hardly worried about a top-tier oil company's flag-ship products with the proper API-SN ratings... any more than their gasoline! To my knowledge the car NEVER consumed any oil, and I used to check it at least two or three times per oil change without it noticeably budging! I just did my second oil change on October 13, 2018 at 63,607 (3,519 miles, 4 months 21 days on this oil) also with Pennzoil Platinum 5w-30. Each time, I replaced with the exact same factory filter they did (oiling the gasket) and tightening it with a torque wrench to 168 lb-inch, and I always replaced the crush washer with a factory one also tightening the drain bolt with a torque wrench to around 26 lb-ft. At any rate, I am a bit disturbed because it always read full on the dip stick as far as I can remember until this last oil change. I went to check it before and it was half way between the L and H marks! crzy Then I drained it and carefully poured it back into the same container and sure enough 4.5 quarts drained out. Exactly 5 quarts went in both times! Now it is exactly on the F mark on the dipstick again, but why did I suddenly burn half a quart? Is it the oil? Did the dealer perhaps overfill it a bit? To be honest, it calls for 5 and 1/8 quart, but that 1/8 quart I never bothered putting in because it represents 4 oz, which is nothing, and I hit the Full line each time anyway! Am I doing something wrong? At any rate, I actually think I am doing better than the dealer using a torque wrench because the first time I did it, I was nervous. The oil drain bolt the dealer installed was WAY over tightened. I used a breaker bar to get it loose, and I estimate it took at least 80 ft lbs to break it loose (i.e. it was tightened like a lug nut is supposed to be not an oil drain bolt) though admittedly they tighten lug nuts to about 300+ lb-ft or torque each time because I weigh about 230 lbs and can jump up and down on an 18" breaker bar without them budging, and my rotors get warped each time those goons rotated my tires. Lastly the filter when they did it was too easy to remove. I spun it off with just two fingers - it was already loose though admittedly not a drop of oil leaked out... lucky I guess. Here are the pictures of my oil change: Here are my custom ramp extensions to clear the profile of the bumper: [Linked Image] Splash shield bolts and plastic rivets removed: [Linked Image] Splash shield [Linked Image] Millage before draining: [Linked Image] Drained without spilling a drop on the driveway: [Linked Image] New Filter [Linked Image] The Fill [Linked Image] When completed, I put the cap on and waited 15 minutes. Checked the dipstick - perfect. Ran for 3 minutes. Checked for leaks, bolted the skid plate back on... then shot this as proof: [Linked Image] I reset the monitor. *********** Anything I should do different? Should I switch back to Mobil 1 maybe, or will it normalize on Pennzoil Platinum and stop burning?
 
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NETWizz

Thread starter
Messages
22
Location
SC
I have been putting those in my Chevrolet Colorado 2016 and my Chevrolet Malibu 2009 respectively - neither of which burn an ounce.
 
Hey bud. No offense because I know you're new... but ~0.5 quarts over an OCI is "yawn inducing" around here. If you do some reading here, it is not unusual at all for some "consumption" to occur when changing oil brands and formulae. PP is a good oil and there isn't anything wrong. Go ahead and buy an additional quart, and fill it up to the "full" mark if it makes you happy. As long as the oil does not go below the "low" mark, you will be fine. It's generally accepted that when changing brands, you need at least 2-3 oil changes to get all of the old oil out, the consumption to level off, and the new "normal" to be consistent from oil change to oil change. You're OK, dude!
 
Messages
25,053
Location
ON, Canada eh?
Nice custom ramps. The oil consumption is well within the limits that are considered acceptable. I understand it's alarming and it's really hard to tell what it could be but I would continue running the oil and maybe check your PCV valve and clean it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner and see if that makes a difference. If not you can try changing back to M1 but they are both really high quality oils and I doubt the oil is the cause for the change. (Just coincidental) Be sure to let us know if you get it figured out. thumbsup
 
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Messages
397
Location
Missouri
I switched my brothers car, my truck, my wife's car and my moms van over to amsoil and the first oil change they all burned about 1 qt of oil even though they never did that before. Switching from one formulation to another on my truck caused it to burn 1.5 qts +\- and now it hasnt done it since so I think you're ok
 
Messages
2,839
Location
St. Louis
I appreciate your attention to detail. Your dealership experience is one reason I change my own oil. Did you actually observe them using the oil you provided? My lack of trust can just imagine the dealer using bulk oil for your car based on their lack of attention to detail you observed. I currently use Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum with no consumption. I did notice my previous car had more oil consumption with Pennzoil Platinum compared to other oils, so it can happen.
 
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35,631
Location
NY
Originally Posted by MONKEYMAN
I appreciate your attention to detail. Your dealership experience is one reason I change my own oil. Did you actually observe them using the oil you provided? My lack of trust can just imagine the dealer using bulk oil for your car based on their lack of attention to detail you observed. I currently use Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum with no consumption. I did notice my previous car had more oil consumption with Pennzoil Platinum compared to other oils, so it can happen.
Exactly. I also use PU with no consumption to speak of. Odds are the oil went into the tech's trunk and bulk oil went into the OP's sump. I saw that happen a lot during my car selling days and frequent trips to the dealer service departments with cars that had to be prepped for sale. With regard to the oil consumption, perfectly normal.
 
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1,491
Location
Ruidoso, NM USA
Check your oil 15 min AFTER your 3 min run when you do your change. Pumping oil into the filter may have put you almost 1/2 quart low at the START of your OCI.
 
Messages
924
Location
montreal ,canada
Why did you stick with that dealership ? I know you were getting free oil changes but that didn't matter because you were supplying the oil. Overtightened oil drain bolts and 300 ft lbs on the lug nuts ! Yikes...
 
Messages
25,809
Location
MA, Mittelfranken.de
Doesn't that plastic belly pan have a flap at the rear directly under the drain plug that folds down when you remove the 2 rear bolts? Now its out of warranty you may want to consider running a 0w40 in your climate, these engines love it and return great UOA's with it, slight oil consumption usually drops to not detectable with it. I use Mobil1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40 in my 3.5.
 

NETWizz

Thread starter
Messages
22
Location
SC
Originally Posted by StevieC
Nice custom ramps. The oil consumption is well within the limits that are considered acceptable. I understand it's alarming and it's really hard to tell what it could be but I would continue running the oil and maybe check your PCV valve and clean it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner and see if that makes a difference. If not you can try changing back to M1 but they are both really high quality oils and I doubt the oil is the cause for the change. (Just coincidental) Be sure to let us know if you get it figured out. thumbsup.
Thanks. I can post some plans for the ramp extensions. Basically, I boxed in Rhino ramps, so they cannot move, and I used the longest screws possible (without going through) for added strength. Also used construction adhesive. Wood itself is tremendously strong when compressed; hence, the reason I built it this way... it's fairly safe. The oil burn is only alarming because it is different and new to burn any in this car (that I know of); I don't like changes when everything is running prefect. If it starts getting worse in a few more oil changes, I am in big trouble! At any rate, I will see how it fairs this oil change. If it doesn't settle in, I will be going back to Mobil 1. Also, great point on the PCV. I did some checking, and this car has two PCV valves. I can buy both new ones and a set of gaskets OEM for around $45. If I am going to spend the effort to mess with them, I am just going to replace with new, and look up the torque spec etc. before doing the job. I will give it a chance to settle down or try going back to M1 first though. It is also possible this may be normal. The dealer may be over-filling putting in 5 and 1/2 quarts for all I know, so maybe this isn't even new. Also if it doesn't get any worse, I can live with a 1/2 quart loss between oil changes, and I DO check the stick about every 1000 miles. In fact, I set the "other" maintenance reminder for 1,000 miles. It is my reminder to check the dip stick and other fluid levels, vacuum, wash the car, and top up the tires. At any rate, thanks for the heads-up to check the PCV. I did some Internet research and a lot of folks have indicated a bad PCV burns oil.
Originally Posted by MONKEYMAN
I appreciate your attention to detail. Your dealership experience is one reason I change my own oil. Did you actually observe them using the oil you provided? My lack of trust can just imagine the dealer using bulk oil for your car based on their lack of attention to detail you observed. I currently use Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum with no consumption. I did notice my previous car had more oil consumption with Pennzoil Platinum compared to other oils, so it can happen.
There is no visibility back there to see what they are doing, but I can tell you that the do NOT follow proper torque procedures when they are damaging cars by over-tightening lug nuts - it's insane... makes me wonder how they could ever be trusted to do way more complicated stuff like replace an engine head assembly for example. They actually used to have a window for viewing into the garage, and they covered it with a rack of new tires blocking the view. Then soon there was a mechanic's tool box covering it, and recently they remodeled deleting said window all together as if it was never there... I suspect they don't want customers seeing what they are doing (or not doing). That said, I honestly cannot say they aren't putting in what I provide. Personally, if I were working in a garage, I would put in exactly what the customer provides provided it met the spects in the manual/on the cap. If the customer provided something the wrong SAE viscosity or without the proper API, DEXOS, or whatever... I would immediately page the service advisor to call the customer up and tell them we cannot use their oil and why. Then I would ask if they want to proceed with bulk, buy one of our other offerings, run down and get something else, or cancel the service.
Originally Posted by ammolab
Check your oil 15 min AFTER your 3 min run when you do your change. Pumping oil into the filter may have put you almost 1/2 quart low at the START of your OCI.
I always wait 10 minutes after shutdown before checking even though the book says 15 minutes... At any rate I just checked it at right now (at midnight) because we are BITOG. coffee the car has been sitting level for at least 6 hours turned off.. I pulled the dip stick and wiped it. Re-inserted fully, and withdrew... Here is where it is right now a mere two weeks and a couple hundred miles since the last oil change: [Linked Image] Okay, so it's too clean to see the oil, but it's there. thumbsup Held up to the light, you can see the surface-tension fills the little drilled hole for the "full" mark on the dip stick. [Linked Image] It's actually about 3/8" beyond the top drilled hole in the dipstick.
 
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Messages
92
Location
CO
Every time you changed the Oil yourself, Did you do it the same way...? With the Orientation being the same way in your Driveway...(Facing the Street)? The reason I'm asking is it looks like your driveway has somewhat of an incline. While the drain bolt seems like it's towards the Rear part of your pan. Just trying to rule things out.
 
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Messages
647
Location
ohio
Every engine has its own characteristics and some oils seem to "burn" off more over an oil change interval than other oils. My Chevy 3/4 ton 4x4 plow truck shows 1 quart low on an oil change with Mobil conventional oil but shows no oil burn off when I use Pennzoil. My Chevy Cavalier would always be low on oil, during an oil change, when I ran Pennzoil in it, but when I run Valvoline there is no oil consumption. All engines act differently.
 

NETWizz

Thread starter
Messages
22
Location
SC
Originally Posted by Trav
Doesn't that plastic belly pan have a flap at the rear directly under the drain plug that folds down when you remove the 2 rear bolts? Now its out of warranty you may want to consider running a 0w40 in your climate, these engines love it and return great UOA's with it, slight oil consumption usually drops to not detectable with it. I use Mobil1 0w40 or Castrol 0w40 in my 3.5.
It does. I can remove four (4) bolts and fold it back probably with some bungee cords... I thought about doing that, but then I figured it would probably get on the underside and make a mess, so I took it off making sure to put each and every bolt and plastic rivet back. Heck, I even had to buy some extra genuine Nissan rivets to replace a few that broke the first time I changed it myself... not a problem now that I have a 20 pack of them ;-)
Originally Posted by snoofer
Every time you changed the Oil yourself, Did you do it the same way...? With the Orientation being the same way in your Driveway...(Facing the Street)? The reason I'm asking is it looks like your driveway has somewhat of an incline. While the drain bolt seems like it's towards the Rear part of your pan. Just trying to rule things out.
Yes, that is correct. A slight incline down the driveway, but then that is offset by the ramps lifting the front such that the front is still higher than the rear. The first time I changed it, I got 5 quarts out and put 5 quarts in. The second time I changed it (same position) the dip stick read half a quart low prior to changing it though I do not remember in what position I read the dipstick. Regardless, I got 4.5 quarts out. I verified that ultimately by pouring all the oil from the Rhino drain pan back into the empty Pennzoil container using the same red funnel then read it on the side... Again, I put a full 5 quarts back in. Looking at the dip-stick after pulling it back in the garage (level) and letting it settle it is right on the money spot for "full" on the dipstick. It is absolutely NOT a half quart high, which it would be if it didn't burn any and I pulled out only 4.5 quarts adding back 5... If it were half a quart high, oil would be in that curvy/bendy area of the dipstick, which is undoubtedly the "no-fly zone." Conclusion, it did, indeed burn 1/2 quarts of Pennzoil Platinum 5W-30 over 3500 miles and 4.75 months.
 
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2,851
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Lakeside, CA
While I can understand your frustration I think you are being a little OCD about the situation. It's very common to use that much oil over 3500 miles. Monitor it and keep on doing what you are doing. See if it continues. not a whole lot you can do at this point.
 

Nick1994

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13,209
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Phoenix, AZ
Not even close to being an issue. Carry on. The only thing that's an issue is wasting good oil by changing it too soon.
 
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8,336
Location
North Carolina
The engine is just finally getting broken in. Consider filling the oil to the halfway mark on your next change and resisting the urge to top it off until it's at the add line. For reasons I still don't understand, some engines like to live at a certain level.
 
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9,294
Location
Virginia
Originally Posted by Blkstanger
While I can understand your frustration I think you are being a little OCD about the situation. It's very common to use that much oil over 3500 miles. Monitor it and keep on doing what you are doing. See if it continues. not a whole lot you can do at this point.
^^^^^^ Well stated.
 
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