NETWizz... First things first... As you are well aware from (presumably) working the computer/networking field, seeing a single glitch just means you need to keep your eye on it. At about 75,000 miles the engine is just now broken in. I always purchase new vehicles and have had many in the past 40 years. I've done 100% of the oil changes on all of them during this time and I've seen how their characteristics change slowly over time. Some seem to never lose oil but we know, that's not possible -what really happens is that fuel dilution makes-up for the oil that is burned.
I have seen many, many times when an engine "occasionally" needed a top-off of oil between change intervals. Why some times but not others? I can think of many reasons. But, as many others here have said, this is not a serious issue -especially since it's a one-time observation. If so inclined, get a vacuum pump (or just wait till your next change) drive the car for about 45 minutes, collect a sample and send it for analysis. If there is something seriously wrong, it will show up.
Don't freak-out, don't lose faith in your car and don't take any corrective actions until something is warranted... Remember, encountering normal changes is normal in life -how you react to them is what really matters...
Ray
New Problem after Switching Oils...
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If I read this essay correct,you put in 5 qts and drained out 4.5.
1/2 qt is in your filter.
Like others said it is not odd for a little loss after changing brands.
Keep an eye on it but it will settle down.
With your over thinking things you will fit right in here.
My 2017 Corolla uses about 1/2 qt in 10k miles. My old Civic Si used about a quart every 5-7k. My 2005 Forester uses about 200qts in 7k (slight hyperbole but I swear it feels like I'm always looking for a quart to top up...). A Crosstrek I owned a few years ago used about 1qt in its 7500. Seems fairly typical. If it's a brand new thing just check it weekly on a level surface after sitting overnight. At the next oil change you could switch back or try a heavier weight, like some are saying.
Go back to Mobil 1 and see if the same thing happens, I doubt it will, you will then have your answer.
Will be interesting.
Yea, and my Hyundai Kona AWD 1.6 turbo that I put my foot into makes oil. I am at over 5% dilution (Polaris Labs) @2,000 miles, and gained a 1/2 qt during that time......I wish I had your problem.
Originally Posted by RayCJ
If so inclined, get a vacuum pump (or just wait till your next change) drive the car for about 45 minutes, collect a sample and send it for analysis. If there is something seriously wrong, it will show up.
my Toyota dealer always overfills 1/2 quart or more ALWAYS
My oil usage doubles between Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Plat. Your experience does not sound unusual at all to me. I have switched back to M1.
Originally Posted by NETWizz
Originally Posted by StevieC
Nice custom ramps. The oil consumption is well within the limits that are considered acceptable. I understand it's alarming and it's really hard to tell what it could be but I would continue running the oil and maybe check your PCV valve and clean it with some non-chlorinated brake cleaner and see if that makes a difference.
If not you can try changing back to M1 but they are both really high quality oils and I doubt the oil is the cause for the change. (Just coincidental)
Be sure to let us know if you get it figured out. thumbsup.
Originally Posted by MONKEYMAN
I appreciate your attention to detail. Your dealership experience is one reason I change my own oil. Did you actually observe them using the oil you provided? My lack of trust can just imagine the dealer using bulk oil for your car based on their lack of attention to detail you observed. I currently use Pennzoil Platinum and Ultra Platinum with no consumption. I did notice my previous car had more oil consumption with Pennzoil Platinum compared to other oils, so it can happen.
Originally Posted by ammolab
Check your oil 15 min AFTER your 3 min run when you do your change. Pumping oil into the filter may have put you almost 1/2 quart low at the START of your OCI.
the car has been sitting level for at least 6 hours turned off..
I pulled the dip stick and wiped it. Re-inserted fully, and withdrew... Here is where it is right now a mere two weeks and a couple hundred miles since the last oil change:
Okay, so it's too clean to see the oil, but it's there. 
Held up to the light, you can see the surface-tension fills the little drilled hole for the "full" mark on the dip stick.
It's actually about 3/8" beyond the top drilled hole in the dipstick.
As far as your oil consumption goes, I don't have much to add other than to tell you I use PP or PUP in all 3 of our vehicles and oil consumption is a non issue.
In my old 87 Chevy Wrangle P/U, I ran Amsoil as my buddy was a dealer/seller and I tried to help/support him but that 305 would burn/use almost a quart in a 1,000 miles. Long story short, and after doing 2 OC's, I switched back to a regular type sny and my oil consumption issues stopped.
Imo, I would measure where your oil level is after an oil change and a drive to get it warm/hot, park on level ground and let it sit for a few hours or more (my wife's car takes 3 hours to get an accurate reading where the oil isn't streaky on the dipstick) then check/note the level then repeat exactly that same process a week or 2 later.
Good luck. 
As a fellow Infiniti owner who has a similar VQ engine, I think your concerns are unwarranted. A half quart of consumption is minor, especially following a change in oil brands. Stick with one formula that works for you. Except for two oil changes, I've always used a synthetic blend. The one time I went with QS full synthetic, I also overreacted to a half quart of consumption. Went back to a blend, and almost no consumption. I use a 4,500 mile OCI.
NETWizz, I am with you. I do not like to see any oil variations or consumption. My last car required 4.5 quarts top off for a 3,750 interval. My first oil change of my 2017 Elantra dealership overfilled by 1/2 quart. Probably not a big deal, but was upsetting. I want that oil level to stay where it is supposed to be. As detailed and caring as you are I have confidence this will be resolved in short order. Take care!
I'll bet the dealer was overfilling it slightly so that it never got "too low" during the oil-change interval. The VQ-series engines had some variants that were notorious for burning/leaking oil but staring in '07 with the VQ35<span style="font-weight: bold">HR</span>, they seem to have resolved this. The G37 has a slightly larger version, 3.7L vs 3.5 (so a VQ37HR) and should not burn any oil. I have an '08 G35 (VQ35HR) and at 116k miles, it doesn't appear to burn or leak any oil at all. I run Castrol Edge 0W-40 and am at 5k miles on this interval. I check it every so often, my official reading is only when done in the morning after it's sat overnight, and it's ~1/16" below the 'full' dot. A couple other details: It calls for 5-1/8" quarts but I only put in 5 quarts. I also use a slightly larger filter than spec'd - the Fram filter is 6607 but I use a 7317.
Fellow G37 owner here and as others have stated with a new filter installed, the capacity is 5-1/8th qt's on the VQ37. While you could change the PCV valve as preventative maintenance, 1/2 a qt over a 4k OCI is hardly concerning with these engines, especially if you take the car for some "spirited drives".
Originally Posted by Oro_O
My oil usage doubles between Mobil 1 and Pennzoil Plat. Your experience does not sound unusual at all to me. I have switched back to M1.
In addition to the other very useful comments already posted about having patience and the oil filter holding oil, do note that oil jugs aren't filled as "exactly" as we'd like to believe. I've had different levels show up on the dipstick on my G37 immediately after changing the oil, despite adding "exactly" the same amount, at least if I trusted the containers. Clearly, my sump didn't change size from change to change. Keep it between the add and the full, and if it stays there over the oil change interval, you're doing just fine. You may not actually be losing anything measurable at all.
Originally Posted by Garak
In addition to the other very useful comments already posted about having patience and the oil filter holding oil, do note that oil jugs aren't filled as "exactly" as we'd like to believe. I've had different levels show up on the dipstick on my G37 immediately after changing the oil, despite adding "exactly" the same amount, at least if I trusted the containers. Clearly, my sump didn't change size from change to change. Keep it between the add and the full, and if it stays there over the oil change interval, you're doing just fine. You may not actually be losing anything measurable at all.
I had the issue with the Pennzoil 5 quart jugs here and the Delvac 1 as well. I haven't gone through enough of the Shell yet to see what's going on in that regard, but I've also basically stopped worrying about it.
Thanks folks. I will need to post a thread on my ramp extensions.
That said, they are like slippers in that the ramps come out.
What I did was measure the width of the ramp and cut a 2x4 (1.5 x 3.5) the same length as the width as a stop for the ramp. Next I took some 3/4" plywood and put a bevel on it (not that any car would have a problem with 3/4"). The width of the plywood is 3" wider than the ramp, and is to keep the ramp from sliding. It basically boxes it in with 1.5" by 1.5" scraps, which are almost half a 2x4. It would probably be enough to use a 1.5" as the stop, but I used a 2x4 because it is anchored better and in no way will it ever rotate!
Then I took some 2 x 10" or maybe they are 2" x 12" (I need to check). I got one of them that was only 8' long and cut it in half at 90 degree sections making two 4' sections.. Then I added a roughly 45 bevel to each one, but I recommend you eyeball the ramp and match the blade to that locking it in the same place for each cut . Finally I cut off roughly a third of each one roughly 16" back (just keep everything equal). Then the top pieces were finished and the bottom 2x10 sections are finished on one side. I Then trimmed the remaining sides. I kept the blade beveled such that the car will drive up it easily and it will interface with the ramp well. This leaves the bottom pieces roughly 32" long, which is plenty to lift the car the first 1.5". At any rate, I inserted the ramp and then glued the long piece in flipping it over and putting in screws from the back to hold the long 2x10 in place. 3/4 + 1.5 = 2.25 thickness, so I used 1.75" or 2" screws and construction adhesive making the screws 1/4 to 1/2" from the top. Then I dropped the final 16" piece into place pressing it against the ramp. I anchored it top down with 3" screws because each 2x10 is really 1.5" thick.
When done right, the Ramps are fully removable. You line it up in front of the vehicle and eyeball it. Once perfectly placed, I ease the car forward holding the wood down with the wheels on the 32" 2x10" section.. Then I get out of the car, and drop the ramps into place...
These are great. They hold my Colorado, Malibu, G37, or a friend's Suburban no problem at all! The cars literally just creeps up them in Drive, and you can feel all three levels, so you know when you are at the top. At that point I press the brakes grabbing the rotors and let it inch forward until it touches the wheel stops on the ramp and stop. Add parking brake, wheel chalks, and still throw some jack stands under though they don't touch anything.
![[Linked Image]](https://i1232.photobucket.com/albums/ff367/jbirkhofer/IMG_5370.jpg)
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Originally Posted by madeej11
Why did you stick with that dealership ? I know you were getting free oil changes but that didn't matter because you were supplying the oil. Overtightened oil drain bolts and 300 ft lbs on the lug nuts ! Yikes...
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