I wouldn’t. You want the sheep oil product to soak directly into the rust in order to stop
It.
I bought a 2017 Lincoln Navigator L
- Thread starter fantastic
- Start date
It.
One wiper quit while out. Got back home and tore into it. The rod wore out and someone zip tied it back together.
Pulled it all out including the motor &I have a new one coming in the mail.
View attachment 337450
View attachment 337451
View attachment 337452
View attachment 337453
Stay away from this A-Premium brand. Total junk!
Hooked up the new motor that came with the linkage and got no response after turning on the wipers. Hooked up the old Lincoln motor and it works. So, back to parts geek it goes. I ended up buying new OEM Lincoln linkage and motor. I also cracked the newly replaced windshield too...
Pics are of this junky linkage.
Good thing is I got the OEM installed and working wipers. Have an appt for windshield replacement again this week.
Those are sweet trucks, not sure why they aren’t held in the same regard as the Escalade…
At bare minimum, I would see what’s listed in the severe maintenance schedule, and assume nothing has been done.
At bare minimum, I would see what’s listed in the severe maintenance schedule, and assume nothing has been done.
GON
$175 Site Donor 2026
I would be changing the oil every 2500 miles religiously. I would worry less about the oil bottler, and much more about never missing the 2500 mile mark for oil changes.
My contract requires me to stay With OEM recommended grade. I plan on using Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. I'll most likely go as far as the OLM tells me. Most of my miles are highway so that helps. All good notes regarding the 40 grade.
- Joined
- Nov 23, 2020
- Messages
- 719
The OLM will indicate changes anywhere from 6,000 to 9,000 miles. I wouldn't go over 5,000. As others have said, the chain will suffer from carbon particle buildup in the oil. As a matter of fact, I suggest checking the timing now to assess condition of the timing system, in case you need to put some cash aside for a pricey repair. You can view the vct_exh_dif PID in forscan or torque. It will show what timing the vehicle is requesting vs what it's actually getting. When that number gets large the chain has excessive wear.
I had a 2010. Same body style but with powertrain and dash/infotainment changes.
I would be ready to change out blend door actuators, and they are a pain in the (backside) to change. I had to do all 3 of mine, one of them twice. The plastic gears strip out after years of heat cycles.
Engine maintenance was easy on the 5.4 3V as far as access and under hood space went and I'm sure the 3.5 is probably even better. Transmission can only be checked from the bottom unless you get an aftermarket dipstick like the B&M. The 6R80 starts getting tired around 150K if not maintained but a shift kit will perk them up.
The Ecoboost should certainly eliminate the issues with being down on power that existed with the 5.4 3V like I had.
Mine got to be a basket case around 165K and I got tired of messing with it so I sold it off. Transmission started giving me issues, needed an ABS pump, needed a timing job, etc, etc. Hopefully yours will do better. The interior on yours certainly looks nicer than mine did.
I would be ready to change out blend door actuators, and they are a pain in the (backside) to change. I had to do all 3 of mine, one of them twice. The plastic gears strip out after years of heat cycles.
Engine maintenance was easy on the 5.4 3V as far as access and under hood space went and I'm sure the 3.5 is probably even better. Transmission can only be checked from the bottom unless you get an aftermarket dipstick like the B&M. The 6R80 starts getting tired around 150K if not maintained but a shift kit will perk them up.
The Ecoboost should certainly eliminate the issues with being down on power that existed with the 5.4 3V like I had.
Mine got to be a basket case around 165K and I got tired of messing with it so I sold it off. Transmission started giving me issues, needed an ABS pump, needed a timing job, etc, etc. Hopefully yours will do better. The interior on yours certainly looks nicer than mine did.
Last edited:
If it had ‘totally basic’ maintenance, then it got 5W-20 Motorcraft blend at (?) intervals.
Idling a lot in livery service in a crowded city…I’d worry about how much those 2 turbos cooked the oil into a pile of deposits. If the rings are all gummed up, it will drink oil. If the TC got gummed up, it will rattle and be loose eventually.
Beautiful ride, but I’m not sure this will go well for you.
Idling a lot in livery service in a crowded city…I’d worry about how much those 2 turbos cooked the oil into a pile of deposits. If the rings are all gummed up, it will drink oil. If the TC got gummed up, it will rattle and be loose eventually.
Beautiful ride, but I’m not sure this will go well for you.
It was always spec'd for 5w30.
A dirty air filter is not a problem, but a dirty housing on the clean side of it absolutely is!
There's no point to premium media if the gasket is leaking. The Microgaurd looks like a nice upgrade. Leave it in and never touch it again. Screw a filter minder into the housing lid.
I doubt these turbo are not water cooled. Modern turbo engine don't cook oil at idle. To the contrary, at idle the heat rejected to the turbo is minimal relative to the cooling capacity of the water jackets on the bearing housing.
As a result, a modern water cooled turbo runs coolest at idle., not hotter. The oil through these turbos is actually restricted with an orifice because it only lubricates and does very little cooling.
That is one @fantastic ride, LOL.
If it's me, I'm change the oil to VRP 5w-30 immediately, changing the trans fluid, adding a trans cooler (even a small Derale helps a lot), testing the coolant, flushing brakes, and enjoying the Darth Vader Mobile immensely.
If it's me, I'm change the oil to VRP 5w-30 immediately, changing the trans fluid, adding a trans cooler (even a small Derale helps a lot), testing the coolant, flushing brakes, and enjoying the Darth Vader Mobile immensely.
