I wouldn’t. You want the sheep oil product to soak directly into the rust in order to stop
It.
I bought a 2017 Lincoln Navigator L
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It.
One wiper quit while out. Got back home and tore into it. The rod wore out and someone zip tied it back together.
Pulled it all out including the motor &I have a new one coming in the mail.
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Stay away from this A-Premium brand. Total junk!
Hooked up the new motor that came with the linkage and got no response after turning on the wipers. Hooked up the old Lincoln motor and it works. So, back to parts geek it goes. I ended up buying new OEM Lincoln linkage and motor. I also cracked the newly replaced windshield too...
Pics are of this junky linkage.
Good thing is I got the OEM installed and working wipers. Have an appt for windshield replacement again this week.
Those are sweet trucks, not sure why they aren’t held in the same regard as the Escalade…
At bare minimum, I would see what’s listed in the severe maintenance schedule, and assume nothing has been done.
At bare minimum, I would see what’s listed in the severe maintenance schedule, and assume nothing has been done.
GON
$175 Site Donor 2026
I would be changing the oil every 2500 miles religiously. I would worry less about the oil bottler, and much more about never missing the 2500 mile mark for oil changes.
My contract requires me to stay With OEM recommended grade. I plan on using Mobil 1 ESP 5w30. I'll most likely go as far as the OLM tells me. Most of my miles are highway so that helps. All good notes regarding the 40 grade.
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The OLM will indicate changes anywhere from 6,000 to 9,000 miles. I wouldn't go over 5,000. As others have said, the chain will suffer from carbon particle buildup in the oil. As a matter of fact, I suggest checking the timing now to assess condition of the timing system, in case you need to put some cash aside for a pricey repair. You can view the vct_exh_dif PID in forscan or torque. It will show what timing the vehicle is requesting vs what it's actually getting. When that number gets large the chain has excessive wear.
I had a 2010. Same body style but with powertrain and dash/infotainment changes.
I would be ready to change out blend door actuators, and they are a pain in the (backside) to change. I had to do all 3 of mine, one of them twice. The plastic gears strip out after years of heat cycles.
Engine maintenance was easy on the 5.4 3V as far as access and under hood space went and I'm sure the 3.5 is probably even better. Transmission can only be checked from the bottom unless you get an aftermarket dipstick like the B&M. The 6R80 starts getting tired around 150K if not maintained but a shift kit will perk them up.
The Ecoboost should certainly eliminate the issues with being down on power that existed with the 5.4 3V like I had.
Mine got to be a basket case around 165K and I got tired of messing with it so I sold it off. Transmission started giving me issues, needed an ABS pump, needed a timing job, etc, etc. Hopefully yours will do better. The interior on yours certainly looks nicer than mine did.
I would be ready to change out blend door actuators, and they are a pain in the (backside) to change. I had to do all 3 of mine, one of them twice. The plastic gears strip out after years of heat cycles.
Engine maintenance was easy on the 5.4 3V as far as access and under hood space went and I'm sure the 3.5 is probably even better. Transmission can only be checked from the bottom unless you get an aftermarket dipstick like the B&M. The 6R80 starts getting tired around 150K if not maintained but a shift kit will perk them up.
The Ecoboost should certainly eliminate the issues with being down on power that existed with the 5.4 3V like I had.
Mine got to be a basket case around 165K and I got tired of messing with it so I sold it off. Transmission started giving me issues, needed an ABS pump, needed a timing job, etc, etc. Hopefully yours will do better. The interior on yours certainly looks nicer than mine did.
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If it had ‘totally basic’ maintenance, then it got 5W-20 Motorcraft blend at (?) intervals.
Idling a lot in livery service in a crowded city…I’d worry about how much those 2 turbos cooked the oil into a pile of deposits. If the rings are all gummed up, it will drink oil. If the TC got gummed up, it will rattle and be loose eventually.
Beautiful ride, but I’m not sure this will go well for you.
Idling a lot in livery service in a crowded city…I’d worry about how much those 2 turbos cooked the oil into a pile of deposits. If the rings are all gummed up, it will drink oil. If the TC got gummed up, it will rattle and be loose eventually.
Beautiful ride, but I’m not sure this will go well for you.
It was always spec'd for 5w30.
A dirty air filter is not a problem, but a dirty housing on the clean side of it absolutely is!
There's no point to premium media if the gasket is leaking. The Microgaurd looks like a nice upgrade. Leave it in and never touch it again. Screw a filter minder into the housing lid.
I doubt these turbo are not water cooled. Modern turbo engine don't cook oil at idle. To the contrary, at idle the heat rejected to the turbo is minimal relative to the cooling capacity of the water jackets on the bearing housing.
As a result, a modern water cooled turbo runs coolest at idle., not hotter. The oil through these turbos is actually restricted with an orifice because it only lubricates and does very little cooling.
That is one @fantastic ride, LOL.
If it's me, I'm change the oil to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 immediately, changing the transmission fluid, adding a transmission cooler (even a small Derale helps a lot), testing the coolant, flushing brakes, and enjoying the Darth Vader Mobile immensely.
If it's me, I'm change the oil to Valvoline Restore and Protect 5w-30 immediately, changing the transmission fluid, adding a transmission cooler (even a small Derale helps a lot), testing the coolant, flushing brakes, and enjoying the Darth Vader Mobile immensely.
First off thanks for your notes..I have two OBD dongles. The OBD Link MX+ is positioned towards Ford so it shouldn't be to difficult to figure out. It comes with it's own app called OBDLink. It allows me to import some OEM specific codes along with generic codes. I've done it for my F-350 but haven't tried it with the 3.5L yet. I will try to get it plugged in & see if it will show some timing codes I can screenshot to keep track of any deviation. I will say this thing has absolutely full power...it rips!!! Now, of course we don't want the chain ripping or stretching & you're correct about that since I've read online about this 1st gen Ecoboost doing that. Most of why I want to use the European oil for a slight increase in HT/HS. Good thing is that 95% of my driving is the American open Roads so that's easier on the engine. I'm sure this thing had it's own life before getting it.
Awesome to hear your story. Did you get the 6R80 on the 2010? That would kind of surprise me. I was looking into getting the 5.4L version at first since they tended to be a bit less money but happy to have settled on this 3.5L. I did have a 1998 E-150 van w/the 5.4L & it seemed to do just fine with that but this 3.5L is night & day difference in giddy up. I plan on having the transmissionmission fluid replaced completely soon enough.
Well, I hope you're wrong!
Says 5w-30 on the cap but who knows for sure what it actually got. Commercial service is not something I seek out & frankly cringe at the idea but surprisingly the F-350 has been a great buy after 35,000 miles/7 yrs. This one looks like it will work for a while. How long I never know & buying used is a gamble many of us take. You reminded me though that I keep needing to check the oil level on it. I've been so busy but I believe there's 4k on this oil. I want to know the burn rate of course so need to check that in the morning. That could give us a hint of condition.
You are correct.
That is correct & when I installed the air filter I took the time to shine a bright flashlight down the pipe. I was quite surprised at how clean it looked after owning diesel engines for the last 12 years.
Too funny!
The handle just comes from my personality as I believe myself to be a "glass half full" type or "Cheerful mood". ha!I really wanted to use the Valvoline Restore and Protect, & almost did, but the ESP was calling my name a bit more based on the timing chain issue (slightly more HT/HS). Obviously, not a fail safe. The ESP has some keep clean requirements above API? IDK. The transmissionmission fluid will get changed soon & this has the "upgraded towing package" of 8,300 lbs so I'd assume it has additional cooling. I can go 80 MPH down the road & the transmissionmission stays around 200F all of the time (not towing). I plan to go over a CAT scale to weight it but the manual suggests this SUV is around 6,300 lbs. I read an internet automotive site & they stated in 4 wheel drive it did 6.7 seconds to 60 MPH.
This black on black is certainly Darth Vader ish. These cooled seats have us spoiled & the kids love the rear a/c with 4 ceiling vents & 2 rear pillar vents.
Nice rig. We had a 2016 Expedition Max Platinum that was a great family hauler. Sports for the kids, camping trips, you name it - great vehicle, and very similar to your Navigator.
I agree with the other comments on having your Navigator undercoated. Ours had some issues with rust in the area directly above the power running boards. Pressure wash the under carriage, do all your maintenance, and then have it undercoated with Fluid Film or Woolwax.
As for maintenance and other issues to watch for - I changed the plugs on our Expedition around 75k and it definitely ran better. Around the same time it went into limp mode due to a problem with the throttle body. Apparently that is a common issue on that generation Ecoboost. I got a Hitachi replacement from Rockauto, did the relearn procedure and it was good after that. We also had some issues with the LSD starting to chatter around 100k. I changed the gear oil and was surprised that the chatter continued (I used oil that already had friction modifier). I added a bottle of the Ford FM and that took care of it.
I agree with the other comments on having your Navigator undercoated. Ours had some issues with rust in the area directly above the power running boards. Pressure wash the under carriage, do all your maintenance, and then have it undercoated with Fluid Film or Woolwax.
As for maintenance and other issues to watch for - I changed the plugs on our Expedition around 75k and it definitely ran better. Around the same time it went into limp mode due to a problem with the throttle body. Apparently that is a common issue on that generation Ecoboost. I got a Hitachi replacement from Rockauto, did the relearn procedure and it was good after that. We also had some issues with the LSD starting to chatter around 100k. I changed the gear oil and was surprised that the chatter continued (I used oil that already had friction modifier). I added a bottle of the Ford FM and that took care of it.
There is no way I would go more than 5,000 miles on an oil change with that engine. They are hard on oil and the timing components don't take kindly to extended oil changes.
I'll certainly be testing the oil to get an idea of where I feel comfortable. No way I can change ever 5k, I put on 20k in the last year on another vehicle. I'm in no way saying this is bad advice however. If the timing chain stretches perhaps I'll just find someone to do the job. Anyone know what kind of cost that is?
