Hyundai 2023 SmartStream 1.6T-GDI Excessively Frequent Recommended OCI?

Just turned 60,000 miles on my wife's 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe XL w/the 3.3. Oil changed with Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5w/30 between 5,000 and 7,500 miles.

ZERO issues thus far with the vehicle.
 
Just turned 60,000 miles on my wife's 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe XL w/the 3.3. Oil changed with Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5w/30 between 5,000 and 7,500 miles.

ZERO issues thus far with the vehicle.
What did Hyundai recommend for your OCI's, and what weight of oil?
 
5w/30 conventional oil is recommended as is 7,500 mile intervals.
That seems about right for engines using a 5W-30 weighted oil. I'm assuming yours is not turbo?

Seems like small-displacement turbos with DI using thinner grade oils (like mine, 0W-20) are needing to get the oil changed more often. I can see from the comments.
 
That seems about right for engines using a 5W-30 weighted oil. I'm assuming yours is not turbo?

Seems like small-displacement turbos with DI using thinner grade oils (like mine, 0W-20) are needing to get the oil changed more often. I can see from the comments.
No turbo. Good luck with your Hyundai. We have received good service from ours.
 
2014 Kia Forte 1.6 T-gdi.

Photo taken with 8000km on the oil

Looks clean.
 

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I have a 2021 Kia K5 with the 1.6 GDI. My manual recommends 0W20 at between 5000 and 8000 km. I use 0W20 or 5W20 in the winter and 5W30 in the summer. Both at 6000 km intervals. I used this same strategy with my 2011 Kia Optima with the dreaded 2.4 GDI and never had a broblem with it. I mostly use Penzoil but will buy whatever is on sale.
 
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I have a 2021 Kia K5 with the 1.6 GDI. My manual recommends 0W20 at between 5000 and 8000 km. I use 0W20 or 5W20 in the winter and 5W30 in the summer. Both at 6000 km intervals. I used this same strategy with my 2011 Kia Optima with the dreaded 2.4 GDI and never had a broblem with it. I mostly use Penzoil but will buy whatever is on sale.
Did the use of a higher weight oil impact your gas mileage in any way?
 
On this note, I've been using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum for the past 10 years without looking at others in my old ST. I haven't been following the tech lately; but I like PUP in that it's a true synthetic (gas-to-liquid). I'm sure it's appropriate for use in the smartstream 1.6T. But are there any others that would be even better?
 
Nothing is better or worse. Its for you to decide on 'marketing' for whatever spec you want for you HyundaiKia product. There is no best oil.

Weather permitting, I'd go as thick as possible. Maybe consider a 5w30 synthetic and go from there.

The higher GDI PSI will reduce soot buildup. I didn't know that Hyundai stepped up to 350bar already. And, GDI pressure doesn't determine compression ratio.

I would not exceed the recommend oil and filter change interval no matter how fancy the oil marketing is.

Delphi claims that its industry-first 350-bar system reduces the size and number of particulates by up to 70 percent and that its forthcoming 500-bar system betters the former by a further 50 percent.
The Delphi Difference
Our industry-first 350 bar pressure OE technology reduces emissions and improves fuel economy


 
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So I recent purchased a 2023 Hyundai Kona N-Line which is AWD and comes with a 1.6 L turbo direct-injected motor. When I took a look at what the service intervals are like, I was surprised to find a recommended 8,000 km oil change interval with synthetic oil (0W-20). As I plan on using Pennzoil Ultra Platinum, the recommended oil change interval seems excessively frequent. Yes, I know this is what the manual and Hyundai recommends and warranty, and this and that.

My old car was a 2013 Ford Focus ST which ran on the 2.0 L Ecoboost turbo direct-injected engine. Ford recommends 12000-16000 km change intervals (5W-30). I settled with 13,000 km for its entire life and the engine ran smooth as butter all the way to the day I sold it at 180,000 km just recently; there was not one spot of varnish/buildup that could see upon inspection of the engine through the oil cap opening. I did one UOA early on after 13,093 km odometer (10,500km interval) an fuel dilution was less than the detection limit, and a TBN remaining of 2.4. Blackstone recommended 14,000 km.

Anyways, if there is anyone familiar with the Hyundai 1.6T Smartstream, what might justify relatively frequent change intervals with a synthetic? Is it anything to do with fuel dilution? What would cause this?
It's a Hyundai. You have 8 injectors with that motor, so no issues with carboned up ports/valves for you. I am a short tripper and am tuned, I dump at 5,500 km or 3,500 miles. I would never run a Hyundai/Kia on 0-5W-20 oil.I never worried about what oil they wanted me to run as any I put in my car was always better then what they speced, and they don't deny warranty on oil viscosity. Every dealer mechanic I have talked to said they check that was enough oil/ it doesn't smell like gear oil, it is on the clean side, and it is not red/ATF, if they are dealing with a blown motor. I run C3 speced oils and after running Redline Performance ACEA C3 5w-30 Euro for years, they price me out of the market in the last 2 years. I am now running Motul 8100 X-Clean Gen 2 5W-40 Mid SAPS. I run a modified Kona AWD, see the link in my signature.
 
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Just turned 60,000 miles on my wife's 2017 Hyundai Santa Fe XL w/the 3.3. Oil changed with Valvoline Advanced Synthetic 5w/30 between 5,000 and 7,500 miles.

ZERO issues thus far with the vehicle.
Hyundai/Kia 3.3 V6 is a completely different animal than their 4 cylinders. They are not comparable AT ALL when it comes to most things and certainly oil. The V6 is a relatively simple motor that is put in configurations were it is not stressed, and as a result is known to be fairly solid. Their 4cylinders are mediocre designs with tunes that push them to the limit to compete in power/economy with other makes, and as a result are very hard on everything including the oil, for various cascading reasons.
 
I get it. When I did a UOA on my old ST, now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure I got good numbers and results because I generally don't spend a whole lot of time in a boosted state especially in city traffic which is 80% of the time. It was easy to avoid boost on the ST by simply accelerating smoothly and anticipating traffic. But being a 2.0T, the larger displacement meant it had an easier time doing a smooth acceleration without needing boost.

On the Kona N-Line 1.6T, however, they way it's set up it seems like it spends any and all of its acceleration time in a boosted state. This explains why I seem to have a hard time modulating a smooth take-off from 1st gear in manual mode now that I think about it. If this is the case, then I can see how the 1.6T can be harder on engine oil, than even my previous 2.0T Focus ST.

My first UOA in 4 months will prove or disprove my hypothesis; we'll see.
 
8000km (~5000 Miles) is spot on for what I prefer for my EcoBoost. GDI is just too hard on oil for my tastes so I'm not surprised at their recommendation. I don't have any fuel dilution problems, but I prefer the 5k change to get whatever soot might be in the oil out (Timing chain wear), I'm not so much worried about varnish/buildup.

Sounds like Hyundai is being reasonable with their recommendation with 0W20+GDI+Turbo IMO
GDI + Turbo = 4,000 ~ 5,000 miles max OCI .
 
Be sure to account for the severe duty schedule, I don’t know the 1.6’s but the “normal” OCI recommendations are slashed to 3,000 and 3,750 miles for the infamous HyunKia 2.0-T and 2.4 duo respectively. (at least in GDI guise)
 
Ok, I ran 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30 and 0w-40 in both my Kias in sig over last 9 years of ownership and while 10w-30 Castrol gave the quietest engine from very start my late go to 0w-30 Euro LX (Pennzoil or QS) gave me the smoothest and very quiet (after short warm up) engine. I ran Pennzoil, Supertech, Kirkland, Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline full synth and semi synth oils in those 9 years. The longest OCI was 8k km and shortest was 3.5k km. I settled on 6k km OCIs on both 1.8 MPI and 2.4 GDI engines thou. I also change oil if hit 150hrs of engine running time.
 
I get it. When I did a UOA on my old ST, now that I think about it, I'm pretty sure I got good numbers and results because I generally don't spend a whole lot of time in a boosted state especially in city traffic which is 80% of the time. It was easy to avoid boost on the ST by simply accelerating smoothly and anticipating traffic. But being a 2.0T, the larger displacement meant it had an easier time doing a smooth acceleration without needing boost.

On the Kona N-Line 1.6T, however, they way it's set up it seems like it spends any and all of its acceleration time in a boosted state. This explains why I seem to have a hard time modulating a smooth take-off from 1st gear in manual mode now that I think about it. If this is the case, then I can see how the 1.6T can be harder on engine oil, than even my previous 2.0T Focus ST.

My first UOA in 4 months will prove or disprove my hypothesis; we'll see.
If you are at at any form of a mildly heavy foot you will get 13 psi to 17.5 psi boost with anything but Grandpa driving.You get full boost at 1,400 rpm. You really can't go by your first UOA other then seeing if they put the motor together correctly, seeing if over the top higher then normal metals are happening. You should judge your engine UOA's starting at 8,000 to 10,000 mile mark to be judging.
 
Ok, I ran 0w-20, 5w-20, 0w-30, 5w-30, 10w-30 and 0w-40 in both my Kias in sig over last 9 years of ownership and while 10w-30 Castrol gave the quietest engine from very start my late go to 0w-30 Euro LX (Pennzoil or QS) gave me the smoothest and very quiet (after short warm up) engine. I ran Pennzoil, Supertech, Kirkland, Mobil 1, Castrol, Valvoline full synth and semi synth oils in those 9 years. The longest OCI was 8k km and shortest was 3.5k km. I settled on 6k km OCIs on both 1.8 MPI and 2.4 GDI engines thou. I also change oil if hit 150hrs of engine running time.
Is your 1.8L still original? Our 2013 1.8L Elantra GT tanked at 14,000 miles, and needed a new motor.
 
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